2015+ Mustang Camber Bolts, Wheel Spacers & 4” Wheel Studs! (video)

[Goose17]

In this video, I walk through mods I did to my 2020 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 CFTP. I needed more negative camber for track days, which lead me to adding camber bolts. This led to adding 3/4” wheel spacers which required 4” wheel studs that I had to grind to make work. With this combo, I achieved the desired -3.1 camber and also solved the sunken front wheel look, which gets worse with added negative camber. I also show spacers I added to the rear. Camber bolts will also fix your lowered car suspension geometry.

3:55 BMR Camber Bolts
8:50 4" Wheel Stud Swap
21:20 3/4" & 1/8" Wheel Spacers

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[Tomster]

First of all, function over form, who cares what it looks like if it performs. Adding wheel spacers? Second, why not install vorshlag camber plates that give you more camber if that is what you are after? Third, it is pretty much understood that camber bolts are not the optimal solution.

Depending on the course, more camber isn't always better. My last time out, I added a bit too much, and it resulted in chewed up tires and being off a second from my usual lap times.

So anyway, carry on.

 

[KellTrac]

Great post and video Tim!

Camber bolts work very well. Most issues stem from people's lack of knowledge and know-how. If installed and torqued properly and dabbed with some quality brand loc-tite, they're perfectly fine.

Keep up the cool work/vids!

 

[Tomster]

Below is from another thread. I quote it because Tob is one of the smartest people here and I agree with him. The reason I bring this up is that some look at Tim's videos as the gospel. It isn't. If you need more camber, you install better camber plates, not camber bolts over camber plates.

Opening up the top hole has been suggested by the factory and the aftermarket for years as one of the ways to allow some or more adjustability. I'd do that before I ever used "camber bolts."

Just know that the factory plates aren't as user friendly as some of the ones available from Maximum, Vorshlag, etc.

I've said what I came to say. I'm out unless people would like to discuss further.

 

[Goose17]

Great post and video Tim!

Camber bolts work very well. Most issues stem from people's lack of knowledge and know-how. If installed and torqued properly and dabbed with some quality brand loc-tite, they're perfectly fine.

Keep up the cool work/vids!

Thank you sir!

It looked like I’d have to cut the opening at the top of the strut towers to get the camber I wanted with aftermarket plates. I wanted to avoid cutting, which lead me down the path of my solution. I’ve done 4 track days with this setup now and it’s working well. My front tires are doing much better with regard to wear with -3.1 camber.

 

[KellTrac]

Below is from another thread. I quote it because Tob is one of the smartest people here and I agree with him. The reason I bring this up is that some look at Tim's videos as the gospel. It isn't. If you need more camber, you install better camber plates, not camber bolts over camber plates.



I've said what I came to say. I'm out unless people would like to discuss further.

Cool. I've been doing this stuff for about 20 years now. Stuff as in, this topic. Suspension...alignment....camber bolts. Tob and I agree on a lot of things. We have spoken many times. I respect him more than he will ever know.

But. He is referring to things of the past. That is a fact. M14 Stock bolts at 129ftlbs and M12 camber bolts at like 70-80.....

We're talking M16 at 180 and M14 at 120+ here.....

Theyre fine.

 

[thornclaw]

just reading through some threads here and noticed everyone generally craps on camber bolts but there is usually not a clear reason given. has anyone had one fail?

 

[Goose17]

just reading through some threads here and noticed everyone generally craps on camber bolts but there is usually not a clear reason given. has anyone had one fail?

Torque them to spec and use Loctite and all is good!

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