2015 GTPP clutch related issues!

[turbo65]

Hi Guys,

So I shattered my clutch this summer and did a replacement with my LOCAL FORD DEALERSHIP! I went with the Mantic 1000hp sprung clutch, and while at it I added MGW X-spec shifter, Steel clutch line, steeda clutch perch kit and RP tranny oil. After getting my car everything was smooth as butter, the shifter was a bit stiff for the first week but turned out awesome. The clutch pedal feel was much better than stock and the Mantic felt killer.

And then,

Right after the 500 mile break-in period, as soon as I stepped on the car the following started to happen:
1- 2nd-3rd gear WOT check engine light started flashing
2- check engine light stayed on even after multiple engine restarts
3- inconsistent clutch pedal feel
4- Car won't get out of 1st,2nd or 3rd gear sometimes (Mostly low rpm situations)
5- Car feels sluggish and performance has taken a huge hit for sure (very noticeable)
6- Slight vibration when coasting (30mph and higher)
7- violent vibration when slipping clutch (I've taken my time with breaking it in:shrug. By vibration, i mean the whole car, not the clutch pedal!

In conclusion, what is causing this? How can it be repaired? Do I have the worst qualified dealership nationwide?

Thanks guys :(

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[jasonstang]

CEL flashing means misfire.

 

[turbo65]

CEL flashing means misfire.

Yeah, I am aware of that. Then check engine light remained on till this day! My question is how is engine misfire related to clutch and flywheel change? I've taken great care of my engine and always changed oil before its due!

P.S. Check Engine light read the following codes: P0300, P0301, P0306

 

[2015 Silver GT]

Crank relearn needs to be done after a clutch install.

 

[jasonstang]

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere or a cracked intake manifold.
Could it also be the crank position sensor on the fly wheel not working well?

 

[HISSMAN]

Was crank relearn done?

 

[Tommy V]

You need to do a crank relearn,AND THS IS IMPORTANT,if your car is tuned make sure your tuner does not have code p0315 turned off,if it is turned off the sct will say the crank relearn was sucessful but trust me its not.U need to do this asap as driving the car like that is not good for it.

 

[Tommy V]

Yeah, I am aware of that. Then check engine light remained on till this day! My question is how is engine misfire related to clutch and flywheel change? I've taken great care of my engine and always changed oil before its due!

P.S. Check Engine light read the following codes: P0300, P0301, P0306

Anytime u change a clutch u have to do a crankrelearn,short answer crank sensor is used for misfire protection.

 

[HISSMAN]

Yep, [MENTION=9456]Tommy V[/MENTION]

As soon as I saw Clutch install in association with CEL, it was obvious what the problem was.

 

[Andrewg]

Similar issue here from the same clutch installed last week along with the steeda clutch line but. Dealer says they did the crank re-learn then after I left I had a check engine light and P0300 code. Turned around and took it straight back then watched as they did the crank relearn again. System said it was successful and I haven't had a check light since but the whole car bucks violently (almost like when the car is about to stall) when I slip the clutch in first from stand still or second when moving slowly like in traffic. Also seems to do the same thing when in 3rd or 4th (regardless of RPM) and trying to maintain a constant speed. About 250 miles on the clutch since install so still breaking it in.

Wondering if this is somehow vacuum/tune related rather than the clutch as it sounds similar to what the guys are describing in the Procharger thread (solved by swapping intake manifolds, removing the butterfly valves from the equation and tune update). Doesn't buck in 5th or 6th making me think it's not a gear/clutch issue or it would potentially do it in all gears at a similar rpm, wouldn't it? I'm going to re-flash the tune and see if it makes a difference. After that will contact the tuner and try and get some logs. I assume they'd be able to tell from a log if there was a vacuum leak somewhere?

 

[wildcatgoal]

If the car is bucking when slipping the clutch (i.e., going up a hill from a stop in 1st) you may have glazed the flywheel. Not sure how that happened if you did the break in other than potentially one or more bolts of the clutch/flywheel assemble wasn't torqued properly. Probably not the issue though, certainly hope not - that's a good clutch.

 

[Andrewg]

If the car is bucking when slipping the clutch (i.e., going up a hill from a stop in 1st) you may have glazed the flywheel. Not sure how that happened if you did the break in other than potentially one or more bolts of the clutch/flywheel assemble wasn't torqued properly. Probably not the issue though, certainly hope not - that's a good clutch.

Good point you raise but i'm not sure that's the issue. I've only put 250 miles on mine so far and i've always shifted below 5,000rpm during those break in miles so don't think it could have got hot enough to glaze. Bolts were torqued as instructed too. :shrug:

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