2015 EcoBoost Convertible “Cruiser” Build

[jtmat]

Looks great and good idea. These cars perform so well for the average person, that there's no real need to get crazy engine mods. I'll only get a CAI and Exhaust, when it's time to replace the exhaust system. I'm I'm a higher elevation so I think more air in and out is a good thing lol

Yup... all depends on what you want to do and what works for you.

I'm still surprised more people don't replace those rear speakers. It makes the stock radio sound so much better. I get it though, some people like to "hear their car" instead of music... their car is music.

After playing around with my exhaust with the limited mods, I see that things can change quickly. I like the way the car drives now.... When I took the mufflers off, it changed how the car drove down low (it was slower 0-60 but you could "feel" it was more open at the higher end. Like on the hwy, which I don't need).

Think if I had to to do all over, I'd keep the stock exhaust... like I mentioned before. The 4cyl swoosh is a cool sound for a turbo.

For me this is a learning experience more than anything else. After speaking to the Ford mechanic in my building, I don't want to do too many mods... he even asked if I kept the "resonator" when I told him I upgraded my mufflers.

I don't even know which dealership he works for though... see him in the hall every now and again and ask quick questions... he answers but definitely not wanting to talk too long about cars since he is off work.

It is interesting that Ford is bringing people like me into the fold... I've been Honda/Toyota/Nissan since 1990. I'm definitely not what you would call a hard core car guy. Fun hanging out at the car meets... some people are very passionate about their cars. :-)

 

[Hageln]

Sounds good man, it's a fantastic road trip car for two + a dog, lol.

 

[Tamadrummer88]

Even on a street car an intercooler is definitely needed. I can feel the car losing power on spirited drives, and boost going down. You cant say that your car drives okay without one. If the big tuners for this platform is recommending an upgraded intercooler even for a street car, you know its a big deal.

 

[jtmat]

Even on a street car an intercooler is definitely needed. I can feel the car losing power on spirited drives, and boost going down. You cant say that your car drives okay without one. If the big tuners for this platform is recommending an upgraded intercooler even for a street car, you know its a big deal.

Jesus, give it a rest already.

It is not needed... as I explained 100 times. How about go troll another thread? After reading this thread you really felt the need to reply?

You people and your damn intercoolers....

 

[dgc333]

I have been driving turbocharged I4s for the past 30 years. The first two didn't have intercoolers at all and the last 4 had factory intercoolers. All of these cars were tuned, had exhausts and intakes. I have never felt the need to change the intercooler or add one on any of the cars.

The vast majority of my driving consists of daily driving and cruising where the boost seldom exceeds 10 psi. Under these conditions a larger intercooler has ZERO benefit. 9-10 psi of boost is generally considered the transition point from not needing an intercooler at all and needing one.

On those occasions when I have run my car above 10 psi of boost for extended amounts of time I will feel the power drop off. But, for the number of times I do that I can't justify to myself the cost of a larger intercooler.

To the OP you really don't need to consider a larger intercooler for a car only used for cruising. If your driving habits change and you start drive it harder and feel the power drop off that would be the time to consider a larger intercooler. Remember, you don't make more power with a larger intercooler, you can make it for a longer period of time before it drops off.



Dave

 

[jtmat]

To the OP you really don't need to consider a larger intercooler for a car only used for cruising. If your driving habits change and you start drive it harder and feel the power drop off that would be the time to consider a larger intercooler. Remember, you don't make more power with a larger intercooler, you can make it for a longer period of time before it drops off.

I think if people were adding to the intercooler discussion that would be great. Unfortunately, people are now saying the same things but in different ways. Then it becomes if someone says anything "bad" about an intercooler, they don't understand what it does. ;)

To rehash, with some new, recent info: I do push the hell out of my car at times... heck on a recent trip, I pushed it for 4 hours and then ran with a bunch of guys, some with GTs, a vett, etc. I did not feel the drop off. We were running hard as legally possible on the street, mind you.

To repeat same stuff: I think there are reasons why someone would want a intercooler (tracking car, high/no speed limits, etc)... that is fine, go do it. Heck, I built myself the fastest computer I could... not because I needed but because I wanted to. In other words it is cool if you upgrade your intercooler because you want.

This intercooler talk is well past the point of anyone adding anything new... why don't we talk about mufflers or speakers or recent trips people took.... ;)

 

[jtmat]

Sounds good man, it's a fantastic road trip car for two + a dog, lol.

I've had four in the car... it is not that bad with the top down and seats pushed up a little bit.

I learned quickly that some people don't like verts though... the hair, the hair. The top down experience has to be planned already. LOL... where I like to drop it anytime.

Some people will call and want to cruise to "x" just to be seen.... that is fun.

The car is really a lot of fun.

No dog... my cousin had his dog kill himself by jumping out of the car.

Thanks for your comments... after the recent posts, it is nice to see someone appreciate my build. :cheers:

 

[Cmw458]

Love your set up and vision on this. My ecoboost fastback is pretty much in the same vein. Unlike many on here I am not tuning my cae, but I am adding an intercooler right now just in case I do in the future change my mind.

 

[mpwillis]

JTMAT - long time since my last post. My car also is just a cruiser. I use other toys for track. We discussed gas mileage and windblock. For a durability check - my "love the ride" windblock is going good after 18mos. On mileage, I'm now at 30k miles - bone stock (excepting one oil change duration with K&N oiled filter) EB PP Vert. Nothing I do can I get over 24 mpg, not sure about 55 HWY as I general drive 75-80 HWY. Daily mixed is at about 22-23. I don't granny drive, but not getting on it too much. Are you PP? Also not discussed much on this forum are the shutters that were discussed at one point for the EB. I DONT have them, not sure if that is a factor for my mileage. Not sure if Verts have them at all. Thanks for your postings.

 

[jtmat]

JTMAT - long time since my last post. My car also is just a cruiser. I use other toys for track. We discussed gas mileage and windblock. For a durability check - my "love the ride" windblock is going good after 18mos. On mileage, I'm now at 30k miles - bone stock (excepting one oil change duration with K&N oiled filter) EB PP Vert. Nothing I do can I get over 24 mpg, not sure about 55 HWY as I general drive 75-80 HWY. Daily mixed is at about 22-23. I don't granny drive, but not getting on it too much. Are you PP? Also not discussed much on this forum are the shutters that were discussed at one point for the EB. I DONT have them, not sure if that is a factor for my mileage. Not sure if Verts have them at all. Thanks for your postings.

What shutters?

No, I'm not PP...

Thanks for the Windblock update... I still have not purchased mine. And I could use it on an upcoming trip.

If I drive around 70 mph and stay out of sport mode, I get 32 mpg on long drives. Mostly I average 27 to 30 since I tend to drop it in sport mode every now and again.

Would be interesting to see if the LoveMyDrive would lower my mpg.

 

[GJarrett]

Magnaflow mufflers and tips: SummitRaching.com: Magnaflow #10415 ; Tips: #SUM-690032. Total cost: $200. Cost to install: 150 (tip included): $350 total. I left the resonator after speaking a to Ford tech who recommended I not delete for warranty purposes (if I took the car to them). The mufflers sound great, exactly what I wanted...

Would you please be a little more specific concerning exactly what "sound great" means? I am looking for a deeper tone, louder than stock (but not too obnoxiously loud), little or no crackles/pops or drone, good song when WOT. After viewing and listening to about a hundred exhaust threads and links, I am thinking that the Magnaflow Street Series Catback might fit the bill... but if your setup does essentially the same thing I'd prefer to save $700 and do what you did.

 

[jtmat]

Would you please be a little more specific concerning exactly what "sound great" means? I am looking for a deeper tone, louder than stock (but not too obnoxiously loud), little or no crackles/pops or drone, good song when WOT. After viewing and listening to about a hundred exhaust threads and links, I am thinking that the Magnaflow Street Series Catback might fit the bill... but if your setup does essentially the same thing I'd prefer to save $700 and do what you did.

I was at my dealer and the mechanic took my car out for a test, without my knowledge. I was on my cell phone with my back to the entrance and heard a car pull into the dealership. I said "wow, that sounds good". I turned around and it was my car.

With that said, I'd make the car sound more like a turbo (swish sounds). I love that turbo sound!!! A better "fit" for the car, IMO.

I think people go wrong when they try to make a 4 cyl sound deep like a V8... won't happen, of course. For example, my neighbor got frustrated with his multiple muffler EBM setups...

If you want to hear how your setup will sound, listening online won't do you any justice; my car sounds different depending on the speakers I'm using. You should find EBM owners with the setup you want and meet them.

 

[GJarrett]

I know it won't sound like a V8, but wondering if it is deeper than the stock tone.

 

[jtmat]

Updated: 19 March 2018

PM me and I'll fix/clarify items that need correcting. I simply put the info together to help others. Credit for this goes to the members over in the 2.3L EcoBoost section of the forum.

Index of sections:

1. URLs
2. Who is this for?
3. What is in the box (I have pictures on the first page of this build thread)
4. Warranty
5. Running with 87 octane
6. Install instructions
7. 1st Drive
8. More driving
9. Conclusion

Ford Performance Tune thoughts (installed Dec 2016) URLs:

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-9603-M4
https://performanceparts.ford.com/login/
LevittownFordParts.com
ProCal3 Instructions

Who is this for?

This tune is for those who want their EcoBoost to go FASTER and have the following needs....
1. want to keep their warranty
2. people who want more power, not a race car
3. those who trust Ford Performance over another 3rd party tuner
4. those who are not heavily modded and do not have plans to mod with this tune
5. someone with $580 to $900 dollars for purchase and install of the tune
6. people with 2015 to 2017 Mustangs... and updated version may launch for later Mustangs

What is in the box?

1. CAI from the GT350 (honestly, it looks silly… but some people think it looks cool)
2. two other plastic parts for assembly
3. OBD2 interface cable (connects your car to a laptop. The laptop is the "tuner" in this case). What do you need to know: This OBD2 cable will not keep your stock tune on it! Read the “install instructions” for further info)
4. a bag with parts and a paper in it. The paper has your registration information included
5. Versions:
Dec 2016 - ProCal 3 V1.92
March 2017 - v1.992
May 2017 - 1.998
May 2017 - Seems Ford rolled back to V1.92 (still early, not sure... will update when I hear something)
March 2018 - ProCal 3 V3.05 (seems to be only software at this point... will update if others are able to download a tune)

Warranty

You keep your original 3/36 and 5/60, if issue not tune related.

Only time it becomes an issue if Ford/dealer determine issue is tune related. If tune related and within 3/36 then Ford Performance will handle; if outside of 3/36 but within 5/60 you are out of luck. The tune does not reset warranty....

The arguments around the “warranty issue” is basically on wording... what does "void warranty" mean? To some, like what happened to me, means a dealer will not work on your car. The dealer down the street from my house "voided my warranty" by not working on my car.

Was my warranty actually voided? No. I took my car to another dealer (still "local") and they fixed the issue, without batting an eye.

Why does warranty matter? It might not to you, if you have $5500 to $8000 for an engine. You are better off with a FP tune since they have a warranty and will pay for the damage, if the issue is within 3/36. If outside 3/36 but within 5/60, hopefully your dealer/Ford will not determine it is “tune related”. With another tuner you are out of luck... they might offer you a discount on an engine or something.

There are some screen shots in chats that shows where FP has stated if you don't use the cai that came with the kit, their warranty will not be honored. If you don't want to use the CAI that came with the kit, get it in writing from FP that you can use another brand or the stock intake.

Running with 87 octane

You can run this tune with 87 octane. I personally don’t recommend it, except in emergencies and even then, keep your foot out of boost. But, I’ll admit, I’m not an expert; I’m going on gut. Ford said we could run 87.

Install instructions

If you want the tune, there are a couple of things you need to know.

1. Who can install? Self-install, ASE or Dealer. There are reports of self-installs where people are claiming to keep their warranty. I don’t know… be careful. There are also reports of people hiring an ASE... some even suggested an ASE simply signing off on the work you did to save money. If you can make that work, go for it. Personally, I'm trying to build a relationship with my dealer since I'm new to Ford.
2. Call or email your dealer and ask if they will they allow you to purchase 3rd party and only charge for install or must you purchase from them…
3. If you can purchase 3rd party, search the form or internet for best price. I purchased from LevittownFordParts.com for $535 (that includes shipping). Some people are reporting prices low as $480. Some are reporting they must purchase from the dealer for $600 or more... if they purchase someplace else, the dealer will only "warranty" for a couple of months. Be prepared...
4. Install prices vary as well. Some are reporting “free” (by having an ASE sign off on the paperwork) to $300 and above. I was charged $220 (with taxes) at my local dealer.
5. Before going to the dealer for install, I recommended:

a. creating the FP account https://performanceparts.ford.com/login/ and providing the username and password to the dealer (change the password later). Some have suggested downloading the tune before you go.... I'd probably ask the dealer before downloading the tune.
b. taking a flash drive with you to retrieve your “stock” tune. They should return the flash to you with a *.pc3 file that has your vin number included. It is very small, between 7000 to 8000 KB.
c. You will also want to ensure you ask for the paper that has the tune info and your stock CAI.

6. My dealer took around one hour to install the tune. Some people are reporting 30 minutes some several hours (and in one case, a couple of days due to issues).
7. To clear up what you are leaving out the dealer with:

a. Your flash drive, with stock tune. The *.pc3 file is located in folder: C:\Users\**Name_of_user**\Documents\ProCal3
b. OBD2 interface cable (some may call it a "tuner")
c. The paper with your registration number on it
d. Your CAI in the trunk
e. The extra parts that were in the bag (they don’t use all of them)
f. And heck, maybe the original box (I did not go that far)
g. Don’t leave the dealer without speaking with the service manager or even dealer owner about how great the service they provided


1st Drive

The first things you will notice are:
1. How different the car sounds. The sound symposer is turned off!
2. How smooth the car drives. If you have an auto, this tune includes an auto calibration. It is SO smooth… I can’t say enough. You are going to love it.
3. How sluggish the car feels. Okay, the tune does not “kick in” right away. Far as the distance before I started getting all power... I'd say 30 to maybe 80 miles (not really sure... not even sure I'd relate it to miles driven... could be the number of times I turned the car off and on, but I'm not sure). One person reported it could take up to 200 miles - 200 sounds a bit ridiculous to me... but if that is what people are experiencing, that is fine. Ford never did provide the best driving scenarios to more quickly learn all of the tables to get the most out of the tune except for the 3-4 pulls @ 50% throttle from 50 - 75MPH which was to learn the timing since they added the ability to use 87 octane for the first time. Their advice is just go drive it and have fun.

More driving

After the tune has settled in, things start to pickup. Here are some rambling thoughts as I drove the car over the last couple thousand miles (this is actually several of my posts that I copy and pasted here… that is why they have some of the same info in them. I left them as is since they reflect different times/driving scenarios:

IN GENERAL:

- Auto transmission calibration... I can tell the difference. Car feels much smoother.

- Can now drive in "D". Car pulls and pulls...

- Chirped in second a couple of times now. I have all season tires.

- Driving is so much better now! The power is very predictable.

- Car does not sound like it is dying when you give it gas... like it did on the base tune.

- Much better driving on the highway and in the city.

- I don't like how the CAI looks. It looks silly. Oh, cool, I have a Mustang GT90000 CAI in my car.. how cool am I? Uh, no. I won't remove it though...

- Car is louder when you get on it. When you give it a ton of gas, it sounds like a turbo! when you are driving normal, it sounds stock.


CITY DRIVING:

Went riding around taking care of business in DC/VA/MD... mostly city driving. Yes, I can tell now the symposer thing is gone! When in traffic, I liked to put it in "s" and hear the muffler noise on downshifts going into lights... that is gone. Ha, ha.... never was real. Sounded cool. Do I care? No... glad all that sound is gone. Engine and some turbo sounds great.... and I still have some muffler sound, which I think is enough.

Outside of that, mpg seem to stick around the same. I normally always drive in "s" in the city... this time I did not have to do that.. when I hit the gas it went just fine in "d". Nice feeling to know you have power when you need it without having to drive around in race mode.

Again, better driving car all the way around... still enjoying the tune. Next trip in a couple of days... 1000 or so miles.... can't wait, some real country driving and city driving.... along with mountains (maybe).

I love the way the car drives and sounds; feels good owning this car.

CITY AND HWY DRIVING:

I just went over 400 miles... mix of city/hwy (mostly hwy) and got 28.8 mpg. This is a trip I've done previously.... normally get 24 to 28 mpg. I thought mpg would be worse, but seems to be on target of what I got before. I stayed out of "s" so my mpg was 28...

Not sure I fully know how to answer your question... In "d" it just pulls very smoothly. All the way up. Unfortunately, I accidentally hit a number below 100 when passing a truck dropping crap off the back of it... seriously, it was so smooth, I did not realize it.

Before you would know you were trying to get faster... now you are just there.

As I also said before, the power is very predictable... I don't have to get into "s" to get power when I need it. In "d" the power is there if I put the gas peddle down two gears (okay, not sure the correct term here, but I don't have to put the peddle to the floor to get power, like I did on the stock tune).

I liked the way it drove before, but after this trip, I love it. No more odd hanging gears when trying to go fast (that aggravated me to no end).



Conclusion

I believe this tune is well worth the money, if you are the “target audience” I described at the start of this thread.

Are you going to win any 0-60 runs with guys that are tuned with Unleashed or Tune+? You might, if they can’t drive worth a crap. Heck, looking at some 0-60 GT runs (with manual), you might give one of those trouble if you have an auto. Face it though, I did a 0-60 in a car just like mine with Unleashed in 5.3 (unleashed tune is $400). I was able to push 5.6 with the Ford Performance tune. That was with one run… so I might push 5.5 or even 5.4, if I got the launch right.

Is this for 0-60 warriors? No… it will make your car fast enough to get you a huge ticket, very quickly. It will put your head in the seat from 0 to 100 easily; it pulls so smoothly.

FP tune feels refined, predictable, and smooth. Ford Performance did a great job on this one...

 

[jtmat]

Per a couple of requests.... top is the turbo sound from Ford Performance tune with CAI (I'm still not sold you can learn a lot from online videos, but here you go... also, done with an iPhone 6 - no mic):

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