2015-17 Mustang GT Ford Performance Power Packs

[J17GT]

The powertrain warranty is six years 60,000 miles.... That's not something you should just give up, have a certified mechanic install the kit

It does not completely void my powertrain warranty. That is still in tact. If a wheel bearing goes, it’s covered. If the rear diff has an issue, it’s covered. If the trans has an issue, it’s covered. Leaky vale cover, its covered. etc etc. It would have to be a problem caused by the power pack kit.

If I blew up the engine or it develops a rod knock, that’s a different story. I’m sure that would get a bit sticky because of the Ford Performance calibration on the car. I have not heard of anyone hurting their engine with this setup. But to simply say my entire powertrain warranty is void is incorrect.

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[pacomicro]

Now I'm thinking about the exhaust.

It was my first mod with a Magnaflow Competition cat-back, I liked the sound a lot but the drone was very annoying.

Then I reinstalled the stock resonator and the drone disappeared.

Now that I have installed FPP2, I want to try to reinstall the Magnaflow x.

I think, maybe by removing the sound tube and installing the new tune the drone is gone.

I also read in the forum, now I do not remember the post, that the new FPP2 tune changes the mode in which you hear the sound of the engine (maybe I'm not explaining myself well)

The question is, does anyone of you have a configuration like the one I intend to make?

 

[Braski]

Now I'm thinking about the exhaust.

It was my first mod with a Magnaflow Competition cat-back, I liked the sound a lot but the drone was very annoying.

Then I reinstalled the stock resonator and the drone disappeared.

Now that I have installed FPP2, I want to try to reinstall the Magnaflow x.

I think, maybe by removing the sound tube and installing the new tune the drone is gone.

I also read in the forum, now I do not remember the post, that the new FPP2 tune changes the mode in which you hear the sound of the engine (maybe I'm not explaining myself well)

The question is, does anyone of you have a configuration like the one I intend to make?

Now I'm thinking about the exhaust.

It was my first mod with a Magnaflow Competition cat-back, I liked the sound a lot but the drone was very annoying.

Then I reinstalled the stock resonator and the drone disappeared.

Now that I have installed FPP2, I want to try to reinstall the Magnaflow x.

I think, maybe by removing the sound tube and installing the new tune the drone is gone.

I also read in the forum, now I do not remember the post, that the new FPP2 tune changes the mode in which you hear the sound of the engine (maybe I'm not explaining myself well)

The question is, does anyone of you have a configuration like the one I intend to make?

I have that set up and I only have a slight drone in 6th gear @ 1800-1900 rpms. With that said, your car being an auto with 3:15 gears is going to be more prone to drone.

 

[pacomicro]

I have that set up and I only have a slight drone in 6th gear @ 1800-1900 rpms. With that said, your car being an auto with 3:15 gears is going to be more prone to drone.

I appreciate your response, even though my car is an auto 3.55. How would this affect the possible drone?

 

[Braski]

I appreciate your response, even though my car is an auto 3.55. How would this affect the possible drone?

The shorter gear ratio of a 3:73 along with the tighter gears of my manual will rev through the drone zone faster which makes it less noticeable. Even the new mt-82 would be more likely drone because 4th is 1:1 were in mine 5th is 1:1. With a manual it's easier to avoid 1800-1900 rpms, auto's tend to hold a gear right at the rpm which produces drone. Basically the longer the engine stays in the drone zone the more noticeable the drone will be. I rarely experience any drone because the only time I'm in that rpm range is in the lower gears, 1st and 2nd rev through that range so quickly your ears will not pick it up. Trust me holding 6th gear going slightly uphill at 64 mph in my car will make my ears buzz but that's easy to avoid. Sorry for the long response and I hope it made sense.

 

[canyon ed]

The shorter gear ratio of a 3:73 along with the tighter gears of my manual will rev through the drone zone faster which makes it less noticeable. Even the new mt-82 would be more likely drone because 4th is 1:1 were in mine 5th is 1:1. With a manual it's easier to avoid 1800-1900 rpms, auto's tend to hold a gear right at the rpm which produces drone. Basically the longer the engine stays in the drone zone the more noticeable the drone will be. I rarely experience any drone because the only time I'm in that rpm range is in the lower gears, 1st and 2nd rev through that range so quickly your ears will not pick it up. Trust me holding 6th gear going slightly uphill at 64 mph in my car will make my ears buzz but that's easy to avoid. Sorry for the long response and I hope it made sense.

still have a new FRPP2 available PM me if interested. Pics are posted on 6g.

 

[NvrFinished]

I know a lot of people have been commenting about enclosing the GT350 CAI due to high temps in traffic. I have a power pack 3 that I installed since I'm on the road courses here in SoCal quite a bit. Until recently, I didn't have a need for enclosing the CAI because it works just fine on the track once you get rolling. However, since I'm going to be installing some TrackSpec louvers to aid in cooling and help with evacuating air for a little more downforce on the front, the louvers will create a rather large opening directly over the intake. I don't want to worry about water, but more importantly, I was concerned that air exiting through the vent directly over the CAI when traveling at high speed would create a vacuum effect that may affect power. As a result, I decided to fab up my own enclosure.

I used 1/8" Lexan (polycarbonate). Unlike acrylic, Lexan is easier to cut and it's not brittle. Acrylic is more scratch resistant and slightly more clear, but it's not worth the hassle for the ease of working with Lexan. I have a link below where I purchased the Lexan. You can actually get two covers out of one sheet if you want to team up with a buddy to do this.

Hardware was 10-32 x 3/4 stainless button socket cap screws. I used corresponding nylon lock nuts with a larger diameter fender washer for the Lexan and a smaller diameter washer for the lock nuts since clearance is tight in a couple of spots.

I removed the top half of the CAI and cut the rubber seal down to the base with an X-Acto knife. I then trimmed off the rubber nubs on the back side. This allows you to see where the holes are that you need to drill through the rubber. I used a 13/64" bit. What I did was place the CAI cover on the Lexan to trace out the shape. If I was to do this again, I would make a cardboard template instead. The reason is that when I cut out the shape it was slightly larger and required additional trimming and sanding. A jigsaw with a basic cutting blade worked great.

I used a coarse file and 60 grit sandpaper on a block to shape. Once I got the shape I wanted, I sanded the edges with 100, 220, and then 300 grit sandpaper. Make sure the the top part of the CAI is affixed to the bottom when checking fitment. If you don't do this, the upper half flexes since it is shaped like the letter C and you will not get it correct. I then clamped the Lexan to the upper half of the CAI, removed it, and then drilled the holes for the Lexan through the back side of the CAI. After that, I cleaned everything up and bolted it on.

I measured and trimmed the EVA foam molding of the heat shield so that it forms a nice seal. If you look closely, you can see where one side was of the foam was bent to fit on the outside of the shield. I used a spare push pin to help hold the shape of foam. It's working fine for now, but I may use something else with a little more height.

The setup seems to work fairly well, but I haven't been to the track yet with it. With the Velossa Tech intake I'm sure it will work well.

Lexan link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAWRVJO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[samd1351]

I know a lot of people have been commenting about enclosing the GT350 CAI due to high temps in traffic. I have a power pack 3 that I installed since I'm on the road courses here in SoCal quite a bit. Until recently, I didn't have a need for enclosing the CAI because it works just fine on the track once you get rolling. However, since I'm going to be installing some TrackSpec louvers to aid in cooling and help with evacuating air for a little more downforce on the front, the louvers will create a rather large opening directly over the intake. I don't want to worry about water, but more importantly, I was concerned that air exiting through the vent directly over the CAI when traveling at high speed would create a vacuum effect that may affect power. As a result, I decided to fab up my own enclosure.

I used 1/8" Lexan (polycarbonate). Unlike acrylic, Lexan is easier to cut and it's not brittle. Acrylic is more scratch resistant and slightly more clear, but it's not worth the hassle for the ease of working with Lexan. I have a link below where I purchased the Lexan. You can actually get two covers out of one sheet if you want to team up with a buddy to do this.

Hardware was 10-32 x 3/4 stainless button socket cap screws. I used corresponding nylon lock nuts with a larger diameter fender washer for the Lexan and a smaller diameter washer for the lock nuts since clearance is tight in a couple of spots.

I removed the top half of the CAI and cut the rubber seal down to the base with an X-Acto knife. I then trimmed off the rubber nubs on the back side. This allows you to see where the holes are that you need to drill through the rubber. I used a 13/64" bit. What I did was place the CAI cover on the Lexan to trace out the shape. If I was to do this again, I would make a cardboard template instead. The reason is that when I cut out the shape it was slightly larger and required additional trimming and sanding. A jigsaw with a basic cutting blade worked great.

I used a coarse file and 60 grit sandpaper on a block to shape. Once I got the shape I wanted, I sanded the edges with 100, 220, and then 300 grit sandpaper. Make sure the the top part of the CAI is affixed to the bottom when checking fitment. If you don't do this, the upper half flexes since it is shaped like the letter C and you will not get it correct. I then clamped the Lexan to the upper half of the CAI, removed it, and then drilled the holes for the Lexan through the back side of the CAI. After that, I cleaned everything up and bolted it on.

I measured and trimmed the EVA foam molding of the heat shield so that it forms a nice seal. If you look closely, you can see where one side was of the foam was bent to fit on the outside of the shield. I used a spare push pin to help hold the shape of foam. It's working fine for now, but I may use something else with a little more height.

The setup seems to work fairly well, but I haven't been to the track yet with it. With the Velossa Tech intake I'm sure it will work well.

Lexan link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAWRVJO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks fantastic. I've thought about doing something similar, just haven't had the time.

 

[Kong76]

Fantastic job NVRfinished. It's gotta help especially during the summer months here in Ca.

 

[TheLion70x77]

I've been mulling over something like that myself, thanks for the up front work. Time to copy copy copy! I think that setup will work extremely well weather you have the stock hood vents or track spec hood vents, but also it should work very well with the VelossaTek RAM air duct if you do my "roof flashing and foil tape" mod to seal off the gap. But that job above looks nearly factory!

It's not just keeping water off the filter or hot air out of the air box. The air box eliminates the function of one of the hood vents...so it may technically reduce radiator flow. We want low pressure under the hood to maximize air flow. That box works fine as is in the GT350 because it uses a single large center vent not by the air box. But on the GT not so much...I'm surprised Ford didn't just have a lexan cover and a new upper mold made. I don't think that would have been prohibitively expensive.

 

[TheLion70x77]

Also been mulling something else over. Power Pack 3 with intermediate 3.91's and 275/35R19 on a lightweight wheel setup. All of the track focused Mustangs run 35 or 30 series tires in the 26.3 to 26.6 diameter range (and of course much wider). Lower profile tires = lower CG without messing with geometry / suspension. Lower profile tires = less side wall flex for better response. Pre-loading the side wall also aids in that aspect. Lower profile tires on light weight wheels = much lower rotating mass to accelerate which equals better acceleration on the track, faster response, better braking etc.

I'm already running Power Pack 2 on 3.73's with a square 275/35R19 tire / lightweight wheel setup (50 lbs per wheel / tire, so 48 lbs lighter than stock PP tire / wheel setup!) that also lowers my CG by 0.5" and gives me a final drive ratio increase of 4% due to 1.1 inch smaller diameter. With the extra rev range of Power Pack 2, I till have +1mph in each over bone stock on stock tires. It works extremely well for road race type use and would probably be just tapping the rev limiter on a 1/4 mile run, but that tire setup isn't really a drag setup in it's intentions. It's a street / NA Roll Race / road race / auto x setup.

But why 3.91's with Power Pack 3? Simple, rev range. If you want to do more work over the same distance, you need more gear to take advantage of the Power Pack 3's broader power band. You need to compact the distance over which the Power Pack 3 does it's work because it requires greater rev range to do so. If find the 3.73 gearing on shorter tires with the MT-82 to be very ideal for road race speeds with the Power Pack 2, but I wouldn't want to go any shorter on Power Pack 2. It's also produces a thrust curve nearly identical to the Alpha based SS's (with a few bolt ons) and the 4 speed TR6060. The LT1 powered Alpha SS is one heck of a track car.

But we can do BETTER than the LT1 + TR6060 combo with a much higher average power (about 20 whp average better than a simple bolt on LT1) at similar speeds because of Power Pack 3, it just needs to be geared correctly.

Current Setup:
Power Pack 2 Rev Limit 7150 rpm. Tire Diameter 26.6 (275/35R19 Pilot Sport 4S on RTR Tech 7 19x9.5 wheels)
Rear Axel Ratio 3.73 Effective Ratio Speed
1st Gear Ratio 3.657 14.205 41.5 MPH
2nd Gear Ratio 2.430 9.439 62.5 MPH
3rd Gear Ratio 1.686 6.549 90.0 MPH
4th Gear Ratio 1.315 5.108 115.4 MPH
5th Gear Ratio 1.000 3.884 151.8 MPH
6th Gear Ratio 0.651 2.529 233.1 MPH

Proposed Power Pack 3 Setup (track setup, probably not DD friendly due to gearing / tires):
Tire Diameter 26.5 (305/35R19 Pilot Sport Cup 2's on lightweigh 19x11 flow formed wheels with spaces and extended studs)
3.91 Effective Ratio Speed
1st Gear Ratio 3.657 14.946 41.1 MPH
2nd Gear Ratio 2.430 9.932 61.8 MPH
3rd Gear Ratio 1.686 6.891 89.1 MPH
4th Gear Ratio 1.315 5.374 114.3 MPH
5th Gear Ratio 1.000 4.087 150.3 MPH
6th Gear Ratio 0.651 2.661 230.8 MPH

Power Pack 3 produces an average of 20 hp more than Power Pack 2 over a similar rev range, but you need to shorten the gearing to compact it so it does that extra work over a shorter distance. The thrust curves looks AMAZING! Maybe I can post the thrust curves soon to illustrate.

 

[NvrFinished]

Power Pack 3 produces an average of 20 hp more than Power Pack 2 over a similar rev range, but you need to shorten the gearing to compact it so it does that extra work over a shorter distance. The thrust curves looks AMAZING! Maybe I can post the thrust curves soon to illustrate.

Yep. My rear street tire is a 295/35R20. When I bolt up my track wheels with 305/30R19's it's a night and day difference. It pulls very hard from corner to corner. Even with Michelin Sport Cup 2's, accelerating quickly in 2nd gear requires attention to the throttle or it will break loose every time.

One concern I have is that my fuel mileage on the street has suddenly dropped approximately 2.5 mpg's in my last two tanks of gas (91 octane from different top tier stations). I need to contact Ford Performance anyways for other issues and I will run that by them. The software tune window on my computer will not enlarge bigger than an index card. I had tried stretching the window larger, but it didn't make the print larger. I had to use a magnifying glass to read it when I first loaded the tune. I want to make adjustments for tire sizes in the tune and want the larger screen before doing that.

 

[TheLion70x77]

Yep. My rear street tire is a 295/35R20. When I bolt up my track wheels with 305/30R19's it's a night and day difference. It pulls very hard from corner to corner. Even with Michelin Sport Cup 2's, accelerating quickly in 2nd gear requires attention to the throttle or it will break loose every time.

One concern I have is that my fuel mileage on the street has suddenly dropped approximately 2.5 mpg's in my last two tanks of gas (91 octane from different top tier stations). I need to contact Ford Performance anyways for other issues and I will run that by them. The software tune window on my computer will not enlarge bigger than an index card. I had tried stretching the window larger, but it didn't make the print larger. I had to use a magnifying glass to read it when I first loaded the tune. I want to make adjustments for tire sizes in the tune and want the larger screen before doing that.

I would highly suggest running TriboTEX DLC coating in conjunction with PUP GTL oils. The two work in harmony. TriboTEX is a hydrogenated type of DLC coating and PUP contains MoDTC (organic molybdenum friction reducing compounds, similar in function to MoS2 but without susceptibility to water absorption). MoDTC has been extensively tested to reduce friction and wear on all types of hydrogenated DLC coatings. Weather factory applied or In Situ coatings like TriboTEX. DLC coatings reduce wear and friction as well, but achieve their peak lubricity and wear life in concert with organic zinc and organic molybdenum compounds.

GTL base oils perform on par with PAO's and even rival some properties of the ultra expensive mPAO's used in oils like Driven Racing's oils. PUP 0W-40 and it's additive package is so robust, its used in some actual dedicated race cars including a F1 12,000 RPM Twin Turbo V6 and the Viper ACR lemans team. Off-the-shelf PUP 0W-40 you can buy and run in your street car. NASCAR's obviously require a non-street car fomula because the requirements are so different with flat tappet engines, but anything using roller cams...their street car formula is that good.

It's good stuff but doesn't cost any more than most other off-the-shelf synthetics. I see no reason to buy AMSOIL or Driven unless your running a something very extreme and in that case Driven is the only choice. 5W-20 or 5W-30 for street applications and 0W-40 for track applications (well 5W-30 for track if you have an air to oil cooler). Choose your viscosity based on your temperature application. 210-230F average temps call for 5W-20. 240F to 260F use 5W-30. 270F to 300F use 0W-40. 5W-30 is a good balance for a street car that sees lots of hard use as well. While my oil temps are not constantly at 240-260F range, they frequently get up in that range for anywhere from 5-15 minutes at a time in the summer when hot roding around back roads (sustained high RPM).

That will also significantly increase your fuel economy and provide better power across the entire power band, 10-15 hp more, reduce wear on the all rubbing pairs and allow even stronger oil film formation because of it's porous structure. I'm telling you, give both a try at the same time at your next oil change, give it 500-700 miles to wear into the surfaces and I think you will be very impressed. The higher the engine revs and the more valve train it has, the more it benefits from friction reducing coatings. It makes DOHC architectures far more attractive by off-setting some of the added friction losses that negate some of their advantages over SOHC.

The 5.0 flows extremely well. To take advantage of that it needs to rev out. PP2 makes the best attempt on the stock intake manifold, but PP3 really taps into the flow capabilities of the heads and allows this engine to breathe. You'll be pushing 500 crank HP with Power Pack 3 and a DLC coating with good oil. Ford Performance states you'll get between 472 and 495 crank HP with just Power Pack 3 and an exhaust depending on fuel, drive train losses, oil etc. But because PP3 needs to rev out more to do that, gearing needs to be shortened a tad to take best advantage of it. That's why I like the 35/R19 tire size in what ever width your particular wheels are set up for. You gain about 4% final drive ratio, a half way point between 3.73 and 4.09's all without changing the ring and pinion. When paired with flow formed wheels, your loosing anywhere from 40 to nearly 50 lbs of rotating mass as well and lowering your CG without screwing up your roll centers. It's a win, win, win situation.

Pair all of that with the FP FL820 filter. 99% eff at 20 micron vs. 80% eff at 20 micron of the FL-500S OE filter. 283 sq in. filter media vs. 150 sq in. Thicker can and gasket (higher bust strength), maintains OE silicone anti-drain back valve and clean side bypass. Flows better too (lower pressure drop). Wear is directly correlated to particle size and concentration. Smaller particle sizes pass between the oil wedges more easily in parts that operate in mixed and hydrodynamic lubrication regimes without scarring the bearing surfaces.

Trifecta of Lubrication and Filtration:
1. PUP GTL oil (AMSOIL, Driven also work well but cost quite a bit more)
2. TriboTEX DLC Coating (need to use Diesel concentration, if you don't have enough physical material, you wont' see the benefits as the film will not fully form, the 5.0 has a LOT of surface area to cover)
3. Ford Performance FL820 filter. It's a tight fit, but it bolts right no and works very well.

 

[TheLion70x77]

As promised, the thrust charts comparing a bone stock 2015 PP GT to my suggested Power Pack 2 Setup and also to my suggested Power Pack 3 setup. Each one is optamized for track speeds to make the most effective use of gearing and the power band of the 5.0 depending on the particular power pack. Torque values for all the 5.0 thrust curves are taken directly from LMR's dyno results on their 2015 PP GT. The stock dyno wasn't technically stock because they did have an exhaust, so it was netting around 7 hp more than a bone stock GT due to the X-pipe on their Ford Performance exhaust.

Multiplied both Power Pack 2 and 3 dynos numbers by 1.032 to assume 3.2% average gain from TriboTEX DLC coatings (what I'm running). All of these low friction coatings (CeraTek, Archoil and TriboTEX) show consistent gains of around 3% across the power band due to reducing friction losses. I recently was in a conversation with a 2018 GT owner getting 430 WHP from a bone stock 2018 GT (as in no tune, no CAI) just running a low friction coating (he was using something else, but it's general function was similar), which is about 10~15hp more than similar cars not running the coatings (2018's typical dyno around 410 to 415 whp).

Stock 5.0 Torque Numbers: LMR's nearly stock (except for the FP cat back exhaust) 2015 PP GT on stock tires and PP wheels, DynoJet, SAE corrected, 93 octane. No DLC coatings (bone stock as it came from Ford). 3.73 final drive.

Power Pack 2 Torque Numbers: LMR Power Pack 2 at the wheels numbers with FP cat back exhaust on a DynoJet, SAE corrected, 93 octane X 1.032 to account for power gains from reducing friction losses. Uses 26.6" tire diameter based on what I'm currently running (275/35R19 Pilot Sport 4S tires on RTR Tech 7 19x9.5 wheels) which is a good 4 square street performance / general purpose setup. Stock 3.73 final drive.

Power Pack 3 Torque Numbers: LMR Power Pack 3 at the wheels numbers with FP cat back exhaust on a DynoJet, SAE corrected, 93 octane X 1.032 to account for power gains from reducing friction losses. Uses 26.5" tire diameter based on what I'm currently running (305/35R19 Pilot Sport CUP 2's tires on 19x11 wheels) which is a good 4 square track setup. After market 3.91 final drive.

2016 Camaro SS 1LE Dyno Numbers: these are at the wheels numbers (also DynoJet, SAE corrected) on a 2016 Camaro SS 1LE WITH a CAI (nets about 15 hp more average across the power band over the stock intake, smaller tire diameter increases wheel torque over a 2SS for example, forged lightweight wheels) with the Tremec TR6060 four speed dual over drive trans on stock tire diameters of 27.2" (305 Eagle F1 super car's in the rear).

 

[TheLion70x77]

As you can see, a stock Alpha SS with the 5th gen LT1 6.2L walks all over a bone stock 2015-2017 PP GT. The OE tuning is just too anemic in Ford's 2nd gen 5.0 as it came from the factory. Also the 5th Gen LT1 runs a 11.5:1 compression vs. 11.0:1 and utilizes Direct Injection while the 2nd gen 5.0 is port injected. Obviously Ford trumped both engines (LT1 and 2nd Gen 5.0) with the 3rd generation running DI + PI and 12:1 compression ratio combined with a better intake manifold, more aggressive OE tuning, slightly higher displacement over 2nd gen, slightly larger valves, reworked heads and intake manifold and higher stock rev range with a beautiful flat top power band with legs from 5,500 out to 7,500. But I digress, the 2nd gen's need at least a Power Pack 2 to catch up to a stock LT1.

Here's where gearing becomes critical. To make best use of the 5.0's power, you need to adjust gearing with each power pack. Your rev range increases, so your average power goes up, but you want to compact that power over to be applied over the same distance to increase rate of work being done by the engine. The stock speed ranges of each gear work very well for actual track applications and are somewhat comparable to the TR6060's in the SS in the upper gears, which is a fabulous and very high performing car as it came from the factory. With Power Pack 2, a 4% final drive reduction using 35R19 tires in your width of choice gets you right in the sweet spot. With Power Pack 3 however, you need to run the smaller diameter tires (whose benefits have all been enumerated multiple times) AND run 3.91 final drive to achieve an 8% total reduction in final drive ratio because Power Pack 3 needs an additional 650 RPM to achieve it's maximum average over a stock 2nd gen 5.0.

These are NOT 1/4 mile setups, but would probably work pretty well with DR's (especially Power Pack 3 with the shorter ratio and higher average power). They are road course / track / street setups. Obliviously the Power Pack 3 is sacrificing a bit more fuel economy than the Power Pack 2 setup which more of a true dual purpose setup, but utilizing DLC coatings and good oil, you gains in fuel economy from reducing friction losses should off-set the losses of running at a higher average RPM while cruising on the highway. Power Pack 2 setup is what I"m running now and I can get up to 26 to 28 MPG traveling around 65 to 75 mph on flat ground which is better than bone stock despite a 4% shorter final drive on the 275/35R19 tires. Some times up to 28-29 if there's a tail wind or it's just slightly down hill. That's PUP 5W-30, Power Pack 2 with the paper filter, JLT3.0 catch can, Corsa Sport Cat Back exhaust, TriboTEX DLC coating (been in for 9,000 miles now and multiple oil changes) and the VelossaTek ram air duct / GT grill mod.

I think the Power Pack 3 setup is the ultimate track setup, but is more geared towards a weekend toy car than a DD car. Power Pack 2 is probably the better balance but gives up a bit on raw performance. These are both intended to be ultra reliable because they utilize and capitalize on Ford's OE quality hot tunes that still have appropriate safety margins built in for long term reliability. These are fully remapped engine tunes, not just tweaking a few values here and there. Optimized over temperature, humidity and altitude just like an OE tune. Hard to beat for this generation of Mustangs if your staying on pump gas.

But look at Power Pack 3, the thrust curves walk all over a lightly modified SS 1LE and would out do a 2018 Performance Pack Level 2 GT as well. If the tires are sticky enough, you can make even better use of it in the lower gears. Typical track speeds range from 40 mph up to 140 mph depending on the size and configuration, with the majority of it being in the middle speed ranges. The gearing optimized for those speed ranges.

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