2015-17 Mustang GT Ford Performance Power Packs

[dprpsp]

It does the same thing.

I had same issue when I tried using Procal on my computer after dealership had installed PP3. I called FRPP and was told the dongle was not connecting to the OBD port because none of the car info is showing up in the Procal software. They had me try to push it on better. After several attempts I finally convinced them that it was on as far as it could go. The sent me out a new dongle and it has worked ever since.

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[ForYourOwnGood]

I had same issue when I tried using Procal on my computer after dealership had installed PP3. I called FRPP and was told the dongle was not connecting to the OBD port because none of the car info is showing up in the Procal software. They had me try to push it on better. After several attempts I finally convinced them that it was on as far as it could go. The sent me out a new dongle and it has worked ever since.

They're giving me the same reply, push on it more because its not seated. Its seated man, I've used OBD port scanners for 20 years. I can push a plug in. Even a poorly trained watermelon could figure it out.

 

[pacomicro]

Just for the sake of trying:
-Connect the dongle to the car's OBD port
-Open the Procal software on the computer
-Now connect the USB cable from the dongle to the computer

The first time it worked with this software I had the USB cable connected to the computer and then I opened the software, so it didn't work.

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

Just for the sake of trying:
-Connect the dongle to the car's OBD port
-Open the Procal software on the computer
-Now connect the USB cable from the dongle to the computer

I've done every variation you can think of. It don't work.

 

[dprpsp]

They're giving me the same reply, push on it more because its not seated. Its seated man, I've used OBD port scanners for 20 years. I can push a plug in. Even a poorly trained watermelon could figure it out.

I bet the lights on the dongle flash like it is doing something too. I reinstalled the software. Reconnected everything in every order I could think of. Pushed on the dongle has hard as I could over and over. Finally FRPP had me send them the same screenshot you posted. Thats when they told me the dongle wasn't connecting because no car info came up on Procal software. They tried to tell me to push some more but at that point I was really angry and I told them no amout of pushing is going to help. That's when the finally shipped me a new dongle and the problem was solved. I even had same message about updating firmware.

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

I bet the lights on the dongle flash like it is doing something too. I reinstalled the software. Reconnected everything in every order I could think of. Pushed on the dongle has hard as I could over and over. Finally FRPP had me send them the same screenshot you posted. Thats when they told me the dongle wasn't connecting because no car info came up on Procal software. They tried to tell me to push some more but at that point I was really angry and I told them no amout of pushing is going to help. That's when the finally shipped me a new dongle and the problem was solved. I even had same message about updating firmware.

Yep exactly the same symptoms with the flashing lights and all, no amount of badgering was going to get them to send me a new one and I talked to several different people. They were adamant they never saw that before but it seems like you had the same problem. I'm just having my dealer flash it I'm not going to waste any more time with the SC kit waiting to go on.

 

[Guarded15]

I have started putting some of TheLion's advice into practice.

To begin, I began with:
> 15' GT with PP2 already installed
> AZ 91 octane terrible gas
> Have owned it for 4500 miles
> Ping city when getting on the power at 3,000rpm. Usually about a second of pings. Smooth power delivery while pinging though.

Actions I have taken:
Called up Ford Performance - Ended up with a flustered guy on the phone that was EMPHATIC that the pinging was harmless. He also told me that the calibration does not learn octane and is much more tolerant of ping than the factory tune. I asked for clarification. He told me that every time you accelerate it starts from a predetermined timing setting and retards as necessary, so you will hear ping every time you accelerate in every gear unless it is completely happy. I asked if there was a long term trim adjustment, he said there was not. He said the factory calibration retards timing on the first detected ping event, the Ford Performance calibration attempts to determine which cylinders are pinging and adjusts accordingly, thus there can be ping through multiple full firing cycles of all 8 cylinders. He added that with an aluminum block you are going to hear everything.

This wasn't quite the answer I was looking for but it put me at ease somewhat.

Did a lot of reading: This pinging situation has been present in Ford Performance tunes since 2011. The S197 Coyote guys have gone over it ad nauseum. Nobody has lost an engine from it and there are even people that have asked that in threads. Can and anybody name somebody that has lost an engine on this tune? The answer is always no.

The pinging is more precisely known as Spark Knock. It is due to the mixture being so close to combustion under compression that when combustion is intentionally initiated by the spark plug, the rise in cylinder pressure causes other parts of the mixture to spontaneously combust. From what I was able to find, if you feel it in the seat of your pants, you're hurting your engine. If you don't feel it, you have an annoying noise. My engine has never been rough under acceleration.

Installed a JLT Passenger Side Oil Separator 3.0 [A month ago]
This made a marginal improvement but not much. I have some criticisms about this design, I think if this engine is so sensitive to oil vapor ingestion there needs to be a more comprehensive solution involving a condenser stage and a cyclonic separator stage. I think the JLT design is a lot closer to cold medication than a cure for cancer.

Tried different gas stations
I stick to Chevron or Shell. Have had lots of ping on both.

Changed my oil to 5W-30 Royal Purple [Today]
This actually made a significant difference. When I changed my oil I was at 40% life. I noticed there was a Valvoline filter on the car, I am guessing the PO took it to an oil change place and they used shit oil with worse volatility than motorcraft. I went with a 5W30 based on TheLion's advice that Ford recommends it in Australia. Phoenix gets really hot so I figure the temperature range is similar enough to give it a go, at least for the summer.

I almost went with PUP because it seems like a good deal and I like puppies. But 2 percentage points higher NOACK than Royal Purple and with 91 octane the best gas I can get, I need all the help I can get so I shelled out for the purple.

Driving, I notice no ping events, or 1 or 2. Huge positive change. Ambient temps were 89 degrees, pretty much no humidity. Engine response feels sharper. This was the big change I was looking for.

Next Steps?
I want to observe what the ping environment is like as the temperatures rise. I only have a little joyride tonight as a datapoint. If this continues to be a problem, I am going to rig up a more elaborate oil separation apparatus. I am going to use a Velossa Big Mouth grille duct on the passenger side, attached to a duct to cool a repurposed AC evaporator core. That will be the condenser stage. Then I will source an air tool cyclonic separator to clear suspended droplets. I'm also going to duct a Velossa Big Mouth to the intake on the other side.

Another weirder idea I had was to build a fuel heater using a coolant to fuel heat exchanger. And I am guessing right now everything thinks I am completely crazy. Normally you want the coldest(thus)densest air/fuel mixture you can manage. The more mass you can get into a cylinder per combustion event, the more powerful that event will be. So the downside of a fuel heater is that it doesn't help you there. So why would one want to heat their fuel. Typically the hotter a substance is, the faster it dissolves into another substance. We know gasoline is a volatile, if you spill it, it evaporates into the air. The hotter the gasoline is that you spill, the faster it will evaporate. Hold that idea in your head for a moment. Now if we could wave a magic wand, we would want our fuel evenly distributed in our air and we would want that fuel to have maximum contact with the air. We wouldn't want droplets of fuel in the air, we would want molecules of fuel suspended in the air. If that is where we are going for, do you now see how making our fuel more volatile can help meet that end? We only have a couple inches to turn a spray of fuel into a homogeneous mixture of fuel and air. Most of the time it isn't evenly mixed, and the fuel isn't completely atomized.
I'm not sure a fuel heater will yield more power. All I have been able to read is that Honda used it in the 80s to stabilize combustion in order to make massive power in their formula 1 engines (they also regulated the temperature of their engine intake air) and that home brew guys have reported increased fuel economy. My thought is that if I am having timing pulled because of unstable combustion, perhaps stabilizing it will result in that timing not being pulled. I probably wont do this, but it is a thought.

 

[accel]

I wondrr if ceratec completely takes care of pinging then.

 

[ForYourOwnGood]

Quick update, I had the dealer flash my pcm. Holy crap the car runs like a raped ape. It's never felt this strong the entire time I had the FP tune in it. But now it's torn down for the blower install so that doesn't matter.

 

[randotheking]

Fixed it. Was able to read the codes, MAF code. I took the filter off and the bottom half was soaked(Air Raid blue filter). Puddles of water going up the intake tube past the MAF sensor. I dried everything up and put the stock paper filter on, cleared the code and everything is fine. The only thing I can guess is the amount of rain we had in such a short time on Monday probably filled up the hood vent causing a water fall down on top of the filter. Had I been driving the car, probably wouldn't have had an issue. I ordered a pre-filter to minimize the chance of this happening again and may find a way to plug the hood vent. We get a good bit of rain here in NC.

I run a GT350 prefilter on my PP2, but the water still gets through - you'll see small beads on the filter. I've driven in a few rainstorms without any issues so far but I'm paranoid it's only a matter of time. On road trips I duct tape my hood vent in case we get caught in any storms... I might permanently seal it off.

 

[randotheking]

Not anymore! Even with the shipping discount, it was over $700 (but with $59 NYS extorsion tax). White Bear - $581 +$35 shipping and no tax.

Bought my PP2 kit on 4/20/2018 from white bear;

Subtotal: $581.90
Shipping (USPS - Priority ): $22.88
Total: $604.78

 

[hlh1]

Bought my PP2 kit on 4/20/2018 from white bear;

Subtotal: $581.90
Shipping (USPS - Priority ): $22.88
Total: $604.78

Mine ended up being $611.90 with shipping on 4/26.

 

[victory-rc]

Interesting thread... I want to get the power package 2 for my 17 GT six speed..
Sounds like I'll just put some black RTV on that hood vent over it.
Sounds like I should be able to change the software by myself..
Best price I could find is about $480 but I'm not sure it comes with the purple OBD2 plug to do the software change...

I'll be doing this in a month or two I figure.

 

[canyon ed]

Ford Power Pack 2 . Use a Ford dealer or a ASE Mechanic if you wanna keep your Ford warranty.

 

[canyon ed]

Interesting thread... I want to get the power package 2 for my 17 GT six speed..
Sounds like I'll just put some black RTV on that hood vent over it.
Sounds like I should be able to change the software by myself..
Best price I could find is about $480 but I'm not sure it comes with the purple OBD2 plug to do the software change...

I'll be doing this in a month or two I figure.

It does not

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