2015-17 Mustang GT Ford Performance Power Packs

jasduke

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HeelToeHero

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Yea I did that. You can kind of get in there but I'm not sure how nice of a job I'll be able to do.
Edit: that cover looks lovely
 

accel

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Update:
I thought maybe in some conditions I might be hearing some pinging (I'm not really sure what it sounds like), so I filled up with 94 the other day (had 1/4 tank of 91 then added the rest with 94). I'm not sure if it is a placebo, but the car feels happier on 94. I am certain I am getting more burbles and pops with the 94, even when IATs are over 60C.

Still no ugly issues with the NLS...some day maybe I'll be brave enough to actually try it.

I would like to better seal the intake to the front grille (including the velossa tech), but I'm really hesitant to pull the bumper given how fragile the clips are. The IAT's even cruising for an hour never get as close to ambient as the original intake.
mine pinged even during Winter. Puzzles me as some 91 people claim they do not have ping. Must be something some of us miss. Someone suggested some intakes might suck some air behind sensor. Not sure how this can be checked, but could be.
 

5.0_MD

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Did anyone get any "access denied codes in the download tab? Been trying for the past 4 hours to get the tune downloaded from Ford. The tech line suggested to just keep trying as the servers are really busy but i haven't made any progress.
 

randotheking

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Sorry,another question. I was exploring the box of parts and found a small rubber plug (maybe 3/16 in. in diameter?) In the bottom of the box. There are 2 holes in the bottom of the filter housing, a slot and a round hole. It looks like it is supposed to plug the round hole. Do you guys know?
I think that is the plug for the firewall
 

Kong76

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HeelToeHero

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I've taken some time to start better sealing my intake. I have a 3 pronged plan:
1)seal the gap where the gt350 snorkel meets up with the gt radiator support opening (see photo)
2)seal gap in snorkel where the gt350 snorkel is cut (gt radiator opening is larger)
3)improve the sealing to the hood.

The above can be done without removing the bumper...if you're patient.

1) I sealed this gap using self adhesive rubber foam strips used to seal drafts. (see 2 photos). The seal isn't perfect but a significant improvement.
2) using some thick duct tape (black to be less visible if I run a velossa tech) I made a ramp to close off this opening. Another member did what they called the "flashing mod" but this didn't require bumper removal and could be done by sticking your hand down the snorkel from the airbox (with the filter removed of course).

The above 2 changes brought cruising AITs from 5C over ambient to 3C over ambient. It seems to recover better as well. A but of heavy throttle at lower speeds increases IATs quickly so I suspect the intake begins to ingest hot engine air from the back of the airbox that isn't sealed to the hood.

3) I have not completed yet. Using some tape pieces on the rubber seal of the airbox, I identified that the rear portion of the rubber seal is not contacting my hood liner.
My plan is to use the same foam from 1) and stick it to the liner in the right location. The colour matches the liner almost exactly so I'm hoping it doesn't look too goofy (so long as I can apply it in a single nice strip). My challenge is determining how to exactly place the foam rubber. I'm considering going back to the store to find wider foam so placement is less sensitive.

Will update as I get more done!
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mine pinged even during Winter. Puzzles me as some 91 people claim they do not have ping. Must be something some of us miss. Someone suggested some intakes might suck some air behind sensor. Not sure how this can be checked, but could be.
I've had the stage 2 power pack and it ran fine on 91 octane. Never heard any pinging. I've since switched to a PBD 91 octane tune and it runs well, but seems a little more sensitive to fuel quality and air temps, but still no audible knock. Even in 100° + ambient and IATs over 130°, I've only seen the car pull about 3-4 degrees of timing from the knock sensors, and only for a very brief moment while accelerating, and never up near redline. The only thing I notice in those situations is being a bit down on power from all the timing getting pulled from high IATs and knock sensors.

Since I opened up the grill and added Velossatech ram air snorkels, the IATs drop pretty quickly as soon as I get moving, which is really nice.

It really helps to have a way to monitor PIDs, so you actually know what your engine is doing, instead of guessing with your five senses and the ol' butt Dyno. I'm using the Ngauge and a Dragy, and they've been great. Highly recommend it all.
 

Porsche_Manny

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Question for checking if you still have a FRPP tune installed in ECU through the Pro-Cal software: had to have my '17 GTPP's intake manifold replaced at Ford for the runner-flap issue where the rod snaps. Asked if there was any ECU recalibrating because I had a FRPP-1 tune and I was told other than throttle adapting and minor relearns like that — the main ECU tune is untouched. But I'd like to know for sure.

I could just check if the NLS feature is still there... which I haven't tried because I'm cowardly trying to get the most out of my OEM clutch. 😏
 

accel

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Question for checking if you still have a FRPP tune installed in ECU through the Pro-Cal software: had to have my '17 GTPP's intake manifold replaced at Ford for the runner-flap issue where the rod snaps. Asked if there was any ECU recalibrating because I had a FRPP-1 tune and I was told other than throttle adapting and minor relearns like that — the main ECU tune is untouched. But I'd like to know for sure.

I could just check if the NLS feature is still there... which I haven't tried because I'm cowardly trying to get the most out of my OEM clutch. 😏
Connect procal and you'll see if tune was still there.
 

Porsche_Manny

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Connect procal and you'll see if tune was still there.
Thank you 👋, I just wanted to know if there was a distinct name on the file to look for — admittedly, should have made a note of the new file name when loading it, but was checking if there was a name — or part of the name that was clearly FRPP vs OEM.
 

HeelToeHero

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You could also kiss the rev limiter. Factory one cuts power and pauses, the ford performance tune will bounce on the limiter. Plus your limiter is raised so that would also be another indication.
 

leszek

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mine pinged even during Winter. Puzzles me as some 91 people claim they do not have ping. Must be something some of us miss. Someone suggested some intakes might suck some air behind sensor. Not sure how this can be checked, but could be.
Yep, I had pinging at low RPM due to a vacuum leak on the hose that attaches at 90º to the intake piping past the sensor. Some plastic weld fixed the issue. Easiest way to tell that you have a vacuum leak is to look at live OBD2 data for short term fuel trim on both banks using an OBD2 scanner. If it's more than 10% at idle but goes down as RPM increase you have a vacuum leak.
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