20 questions about my 1st oil change

Rapid Red

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What most people think are ticks, is just the DI.

D____? I____?

Fill in the blanks, multiple choice unavailable.

I know this stuff sound cool and all that . But today I drove my FM and went to the D, had some really good 60f Ts what a B had a G T.





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Torched10

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Hey guys. I've been driving myself nuts reading threads about changing oil for the first time on my '19 PP1. Seems to be so many opinions on how/what to do. I have been changing oil for about twenty years on my vehicles and never had any issues. Here are my concerns:

1. I have always used a floor jack and jack stands to lift vehicles. I'd like to try rhino Ramps but some people say they shoot out ahead of the car. If they work this seems like a good option to not have to use a jack. Seems to be contradictory info about whether or not the PP1 splitter will clear as well. Thoughts?

2. Will I really hurt the frame by using a jack and jack stands? Seems like a lot of guys have installed the jacking rails. This just seems unnecessary but I don't want to ding up anything either.

3. I have no idea what brand of oil is in the car. I bought it in late October and have not changed it yet. It has 15,000 miles and no odd noises that I can hear. I was planning to use Castrol Magnatec and a Motorcraft filter. I don't know if there is ceratec in the oil and I would like to try straight oil only. Will I be able to tell if there is ceratec when I drain it? Seems like most people using this have a tick or something with the motor.

4. Do I need to change oil every year if the monitor is showing that it is not necessary? I am planning on driving it as much as I can but it's not a daily driver. It gets parked from mid December to early April here in MN.

Sorry for the long post! Thanks for your input.
I just order oil change kit from,kmans oil,bring it to a small repair shop.watch them put it in.they charge me 20 bucks.be careful the oil cones flying out like water house.so make sure you've got a large container and raise the sided with something to make it higher.the 1st time he did it,oil got all over the floor.next time he used a large bucket.

https://k-mansparts.com/motorcraft-10qt-5w-20-full-synthetic-oil-change-kit-mustang-gt-detail.htm
 

Rapid Red

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Pretty good catch can, 16qts. Northern tool fyi

IMG_0112.jpeg
 
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MNstang

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Thanks for the advice so far guys. I know I'm overthinking this but would like to avoid doing something stupid! The frame on my previous car ('65 Fastback) was beat up from the day I got it so I never worried about dinging it with the jack or jack stands. I've read that a lot of people will puncture the filter to drain the oil out of it before removing it. Anyone use this method?
 

Matti777

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My first oil change is happening tomorrow. I'm fortunate enough to have a 4 post lift and rolling drain pan. I'm getting to old to lie on the floor. It wouldn't be the first time I spilled a bit of oil.
 

boB

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My first oil change is happening tomorrow. I'm fortunate enough to have a 4 post lift and rolling drain pan. I'm getting to old to lie on the floor. It wouldn't be the first time I spilled a bit of oil.
Yep, *that's* the way to change oil! The last time I laid on the cold floor to work on the car I could barely move the next day and that was the day I ordered a lift. ;)
 

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I use ramps in the driveway, and they work fine. Concrete is rough enough that they don't slide.
 

Rapid Red

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Thanks for the advice so far guys. I know I'm overthinking this but would like to avoid doing something stupid! The frame on my previous car ('65 Fastback) was beat up from the day I got it so I never worried about dinging it with the jack or jack stands. I've read that a lot of people will puncture the filter to drain the oil out of it before removing it. Anyone use this method?

Useless, unnecessary, messy no control, just loosen it enough where it can be rotated by hand.

Stop, gravity will take care of the rest.

20 years doing oil changes, should be a no brainer at the point of a career ?

Moving on
Before you install the new filter. Poor oil in the filter, fill it once.

That will precharge the filter, and allow you to install it without spilling oil.
 

ice445

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I jack and support from the pinch welds, I just make sure to use the reinforced areas near the arrows on the side sill plates. Also use a hockey puck or some other pad that grips the pinch weld so that the car doesn't fall off the jack or tear up the paint.
 

Michael_vroomvroom

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I got this image from a post here:
jack_points.jpg
 

Elp_jc

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I use Rhino ramps, but they do slide, especially with RWD (front tires just push them forward). To eliminate that, I use two 3' pieces of 2x8 lumber between the ramps and the step on my garage floor. Plus two other 2' pieces in front of the ramps, so car clears without any issues. I do have jacking rails, but to change the oil, ramps are a lot better IMO.
 
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MNstang

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Got the oil changed today with Castrol Magnatec and Motorcraft filter. The rhino ramps are just barely low enough for my PP1 splitter to clear. They don't give you a ton of room to work - I was not able to use the creeper. It went pretty well otherwise and I really didn't spill any oil, surprisingly.

I made a little funnel for under the oil filter out of coil stock I had laying around and it really helped make the filter removal a clean process. I wrote the dimensions on the piece of coil stock in the picture in case anyone was curious on the dimensions. Using these dimensions it held itself in place and slid way up behind the filter. 👍🏻

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