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1st oil change @ dealer-interesting convo. Warning: tick content

OutWest

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Perhaps, but doesn’t Ford reserve the right to 86 the warranty on engines that have run additives? I’m not looking at the owner’s manual but it seems I have read that.

Remember, they don’t have to prove it caused a problem; you have to prove it didn’t.
In that case you just have to find a Ford approved oil that contains lots of boron per @aw081271
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pt's21

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I recently did my first oil change at a little under 1500 miles. I put in Mobil 1 synthetic - 5qt 5W-20 and 5qt 5W-30 (minus 400ml) plus 1 bottle (400ml) LiquiMoly Cera Tec. No tick before or after change, and possibly slightly quieter overall after.

Next change will be in spring and will be all 5W-30.
 

Prymetime1

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I recently did my first oil change at a little under 1500 miles. I put in Mobil 1 synthetic - 5qt 5W-20 and 5qt 5W-30 (minus 400ml) plus 1 bottle (400ml) LiquiMoly Cera Tec. No tick before or after change, and possibly slightly quieter overall after.

Next change will be in spring and will be all 5W-30.
Currently sitting at 2200 miles on my ride and I wasn't planning on changing it till 3k - 3500 miles. I see a lot 1st changes at like 1000-1500 miles. I planned on the ceratek for when its due ( out of caution for this tick) but I am curious as to why ppl are changing the oil at such a low mile count. I didn't read the manual so maybe I missed something. I did read that these engines take 10k miles to break in so it seems odd to me to change the oil so early.
 

Mrhavasu

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Care to elaborate?
Sure, if you read enough of his very long ramblings, you will see. He has one story about his lady neighbor that had a new gm vehicle, she drove it hard in the winter am he says. This was to back up his story about not taking it easy on a cold engine. He says guess what? Of course the car blows up one day. Then she gets a new one and all of a sudden, she now drives slow first thing in the mornings. Ridiculous story. He is so busy blowing his own horn and making up stuff like above to prove his points. There are other things I do not remember the details about, but I saw some good and not so good.
 

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Mrhavasu

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I just looked at my Blackstone report and the Boron levels were at 292. Thats for
Motorcraft 5/50. My Ram Cummins with Rotella t6 was at 145. On my Camry with
Mobil one 5/20 was 39. On a Nissan Titan I had I tried Mobil one 0/40 and its boron
was 140. Lot of different numbers.
 

pt's21

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Currently sitting at 2200 miles on my ride and I wasn't planning on changing it till 3k - 3500 miles. I see a lot 1st changes at like 1000-1500 miles. I planned on the ceratek for when its due ( out of caution for this tick) but I am curious as to why ppl are changing the oil at such a low mile count. I didn't read the manual so maybe I missed something. I did read that these engines take 10k miles to break in so it seems odd to me to change the oil so early.
Many moons ago cars came with "break in oil", and it was a good idea to get it out of the engine after around a 1000 mile break in period. I continue this practice because; a) I have no idea exactly what oil is in my car when I purchase, and b) this 'first' oil contains everything that did not get washed out of the engine components when assembled.

The possibility of contaminants in the first oil, and especially the filter, are the main reason I change early. Even after this change, I will not go full term between changes. Although an oil change in the stang is a little pricey (10 quarts !), good clean oil is too important to an engine for me to trust the "experts" that say I can run the same oil for almost ever.
 

DrZed

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in Germany we did an oil analysis.
the Castrol oil from the factory is high in boron.
about 160.
the 5w20 Castrol from the store has a lot less at around 20.

Boron prevents ticking. it is, so to speak, a lubricant between the metals.
so the ticking starts after the 1st oil change. find an oil with a lot of boron.
in Europe, Total or Ravenol oils contain a lot of boron.


In addition, the 0W20 - 948B is older than the Coyote 3.
I will switch to a modern 5W30 - 961-A1 with a lot of boron.
I think that goes better with the coyote 3.

in germany, however, we also have other parameters.
for example an ottoparticle filter or
motorway without speed limit, so higher load on the engine.
I have always used 961-A1 5w30 oils. My tick started the second I did an oil change using Magnatec 961-A1 oil. Used Mobil 5w30 961-A1 and 50% of the tick went away, but it is still there.

While your point about boron is interesting, using the 961-A1 oils still resulting in me getting an engine tick.

Of note, my factory fill oil (changed at 9400 kms) contained 126 units of boron as per Blackstone.
 

aw081271

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Boron isn't everything.
you also need a good additive mix.
 

SirRobin

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Sure, if you read enough of his very long ramblings, you will see. He has one story about his lady neighbor that had a new gm vehicle, she drove it hard in the winter am he says. This was to back up his story about not taking it easy on a cold engine. He says guess what? Of course the car blows up one day. Then she gets a new one and all of a sudden, she now drives slow first thing in the mornings. Ridiculous story. He is so busy blowing his own horn and making up stuff like above to prove his points. There are other things I do not remember the details about, but I saw some good and not so good.
yeah I skipped most of the stories to get to the test results. At the end of the day the more an oil can resist the two metals touching each other the happier I think the motor will be.
 

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Prymetime1

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Many moons ago cars came with "break in oil", and it was a good idea to get it out of the engine after around a 1000 mile break in period. I continue this practice because; a) I have no idea exactly what oil is in my car when I purchase, and b) this 'first' oil contains everything that did not get washed out of the engine components when assembled.

The possibility of contaminants in the first oil, and especially the filter, are the main reason I change early. Even after this change, I will not go full term between changes. Although an oil change in the stang is a little pricey (10 quarts !), good clean oil is too important to an engine for me to trust the "experts" that say I can run the same oil for almost ever.
Thank you for the explanation....ill get my materials in order to tackle the change next weekend.
 

boB

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Many moons ago cars came with "break in oil", and it was a good idea to get it out of the engine after around a 1000 mile break in period. I continue this practice because; a) I have no idea exactly what oil is in my car when I purchase, and b) this 'first' oil contains everything that did not get washed out of the engine components when assembled.

The possibility of contaminants in the first oil, and especially the filter, are the main reason I change early. Even after this change, I will not go full term between changes. Although an oil change in the stang is a little pricey (10 quarts !), good clean oil is too important to an engine for me to trust the "experts" that say I can run the same oil for almost ever.
Many moons ago cars had lifters that kind of slid across the camshaft in a high pressure metal-to-metal action. Without assembly lube the cam and lifters might not get past the break-in period. Now we have roller lifters but I agree with your idea of getting whatever trash was in the new engine out of it as soon as reasonable. I change oil at anywhere from as soon as I get home to when I get around to it, usually the first few hundred miles.
 

Dfeeds

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yeah I skipped most of the stories to get to the test results. At the end of the day the more an oil can resist the two metals touching each other the happier I think the motor will be.
The short of it is that his tests don't simulate actual conditions inside an engine. Bobistheoilguy.com is full of very knowledgeable people and the ratblog is chastised when it's mentioned. Apparently dishwashing soap can score very high on the test, which says a lot about it.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/540rat-blog.280231/

There's a lot of arguing but it does a good job pointing out most of the faults in the rat blog.
 

SirRobin

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The short of it is that his tests don't simulate actual conditions inside an engine. Bobistheoilguy.com is full of very knowledgeable people and the ratblog is chastised when it's mentioned. Apparently dishwashing soap can score very high on the test, which says a lot about it.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/540rat-blog.280231/

There's a lot of arguing but it does a good job pointing out most of the faults in the rat blog.
thanks for the link 😃👍
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