1st Mods on 2020 GT500

The Chairman

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The bag is just an install kit for the pipes. Has bolts and instructions. One box is the rear diff mounting bushings
20210425_115046.jpg
You will find one of the rear diff bushings doesn’t match the Steeda inserts. This is what the bushings look like. Don’t remember which side was different.
1E08CF97-19B6-4E55-A4E9-3310EE51423C.jpeg
496A01BD-97F1-49BE-A54A-58305287C1AE.jpeg

I used a knife to slice out the slot in the red insert to make it fit. Don’t have a pix of that.
 

Warpath

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You will find one of the rear diff bushings doesn’t match the Steeda inserts. This is what the bushings look like. Don’t remember which side was different.
1E08CF97-19B6-4E55-A4E9-3310EE51423C.jpeg
496A01BD-97F1-49BE-A54A-58305287C1AE.jpeg

I used a knife to slice out the slot in the red insert to make it fit. Don’t have a pix of that.
Thank you for the heads up!!
 

The Chairman

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Not familiar with your reference to "rear subframe lockouts", i.e. purpose, vendor, and installation
There is a good video out there somewhere that shows how much the rear subframe moves. The diff is mounted in rubber to the subframe and the subframe is mounted in rubber to the frame — with an oversized hole to boot. The Steeda parts help “lockout” all that rubber and fill that mounting hole to keep everything in place. Prevents wheel hop.
Edit: Here’s the video:

Note how much the differential mounting bolts move too.
 
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Chris2020GT500

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I use liquid glass, two coats applied and soon it goes in for XPEL.
Nothing else needed from a performance standpoint.
 

Houston Kid

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Thank you for the heads up!!
I’ve done two of these installs on 2018 5.0s. I imagine it’s the same install. Be aware not to strip the sub frame bolts. Use a prybar to make sure they are perfectly aligned and you can start them by hand. If not they are easy to strip. My install went fine but I had to use a prybar to get one of the bolts perfectly aligned. When I did my buddies car, I was working on one side and he stripped one of the bolts he was trying to put in on the side he was working on.
Just an FYI not to start wrenching the bolts until they are well started by hand.
 

Jmeo

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All good advice above, but I will add.

Be sure to jack the subframe back up prior to tightening. Do not pull the subframe back up simply by tightening the subframe bolts. This will put too much stress on the threads.
 

fishpick

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@Warpath Which jacking rails are those? (I know Seeds, I mean they have 2 options on their site)

And - question for anyone who HPDE tracks their car - not drag - is a "stop the hop kit" needed in any way? I thought Ford did so much suspension stuff on the GT500 "more better" than a regular s550 these kinds of bolt ons weren't really needed.
 

The Chairman

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@Warpath Which jacking rails are those? (I know Seeds, I mean they have 2 options on their site)

And - question for anyone who HPDE tracks their car - not drag - is a "stop the hop kit" needed in any way? I thought Ford did so much suspension stuff on the GT500 "more better" than a regular s550 these kinds of bolt ons weren't really needed.
From what I can tell, my ‘16 GT350 and the ‘20 GT500 IRS’s are identical except for the vertical links. All the mounts, bushings, etc., appear to be the same.
As with the GT350 installs, the GT500 rear feels much more planted and controlled.
I don’t drag race; just HPDEs.
 

fishpick

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As with the GT350 installs, the GT500 rear feels much more planted and controlled.
I don’t drag race; just HPDEs.
I just HPDE, so I'm right there with you... so are you saying the no hop kit is "needed" on the GT500 for HPDE - or the factory setup is "right" for HPDE?
 

The Chairman

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I just HPDE, so I'm right there with you... so are you saying the no hop kit is "needed" on the GT500 for HPDE - or the factory setup is "right" for HPDE?
I did all the Steeda installs noted on both cars. So my comment about the GT500 being more planted is after the installs.
The GT500 is so fast and pulls more G’s, so anything that makes it “feel” more planted is welcome! But maybe it’s all in my head.....
 

fishpick

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But maybe it’s all in my head.....
well - I’m gonna do jacking rails just to make life simpler but not touching anything else until I get some track time and can evaluate the car under my @$$. With all of 46 miles on it - don’t really need to change anything for the sake of just changing things - know what I mean.
but - very helpful to know what others have done!
 

Houston Kid

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@Warpath Which jacking rails are those? (I know Seeds, I mean they have 2 options on their site)

And - question for anyone who HPDE tracks their car - not drag - is a "stop the hop kit" needed in any way? I thought Ford did so much suspension stuff on the GT500 "more better" than a regular s550 these kinds of bolt ons weren't really needed.
I track my base GT500. I don’t see the need for the stop the hop kit. Might it help, possibly. The car performs great on the track stock. Drag strip, I do get some wheel hop depending on conditions and launch. I’ve run a 10.81 completely stock except for lowering rear tire PSI to 18.
Zero wheel hop issues on a HPDE course for me.
 

The Chairman

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I track my base GT500. I don’t see the need for the stop the hop kit. Might it help, possibly. The car performs great on the track stock. Drag strip, I do get some wheel hop depending on conditions and launch. I’ve run a 10.81 completely stock except for lowering rear tire PSI to 18.
Zero wheel hop issues on a HPDE course for me.
I don’t see any wheel hop on HPDE’s either. But the rear feels more controlled accelerating off the corners. Can really get the power down confidently.
And high speed corners feel rock solid. As in my avatar, taking the tower turn at 85-90 feels great.
 
 
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