1st Mods on 2020 GT500

[protraxduner]

Wheels and tires on. Full Gtechnic ceramic coated along with the Brembos. Also replaced front pads with powerstop pads which have virtually no dust. Car is dirty and can't wash it because ceramic has to cure on wheels. 21x11.5 BC forged 325/30/21 on all 4. Very happy with how it turned out. Offsets and fitment seem to be perfect. Although i specifically wanted polished lips, i am now questioning my decision.

 

[Skwibbs]

Also replaced front pads with powerstop pads which have virtually no dust.

Tell me more. Any difference otherwise?

Also congrats on finally having those wheels mounted. They're not to my exact taste with the polish personally, but nice nonetheless. Gonna have even more grip now too.

 

[protraxduner]

Tell me more. Any difference otherwise?

Also congrats on finally having those wheels mounted. They're not to my exact taste with the polish personally, but nice nonetheless. Gonna have even more grip now too.

The pads have LESS bite than stock pads and other 'race' pads. So track guys likely laugh at them but for daily driving and normal spirited driving they are fine....the trade off on brake dust is worth it to me.

 

[Jmeo]

Wheels and tires on. Full Gtechnic ceramic coated along with the Brembos. Also replaced front pads with powerstop pads which have virtually no dust. Car is dirty and can't wash it because ceramic has to cure on wheels. 21x11.5 BC forged 325/30/21 on all 4. Very happy with how it turned out. Offsets and fitment seem to be perfect. Although i specifically wanted polished lips, i am now questioning my decision.

I may be biased, but I love the polished lip. Great compromise between non black, and black. Now when looking at the car, or seeing while driving, it doesn’t look like a black blob.

You have no rubbing with 325 in the front? I had to make some adjustments to not rub in the front with 315/30/21

 

[protraxduner]

I may be biased, but I love the polished lip. Great compromise between non black, and black. Now when looking at the car, or seeing while driving, it doesn’t look like a black blob.

You have no rubbing with 325 in the front? I had to make some adjustments to not rub in the front with 315/30/21

Yes there is some slight rubbing on fender liner in about 4 different places. I got out the heat gun and 'adjusted' the liner. 3 places are resolved i am pretty sure, the 4th i have not driven enough to know. I struggled between 25 series and 30 series tires. Worst case I have to get little more aggressive with heat gun

 

[Jmeo]

Yes there is some slight rubbing on fender liner in about 4 different places. I got out the heat gun and 'adjusted' the liner. 3 places are resolved i am pretty sure, the 4th i have not driven enough to know. I struggled between 25 series and 30 series tires. Worst case I have to get little more aggressive with heat gun

I picked up an extra pair of liners as to keep a set of un-molested ones for future use. I modified one set by using a heat gun to shape some spots, and cut out the louvers. I picked up an aluminum sheet of mesh, formed it, and riveted it into place. This was 75% of the rubbing for me. Doing this gave the tire an extra 1/2" depth, and it no longer rubbed.

Do yourself a favor and use driveway chalk (or the like) and color in the liner. This way you will be able to see where the tire is rubbing ,so you can make adjustments.

I also wanted 30 profile tires, and I was determined to make them fit.

 

[protraxduner]

I picked up an extra pair of liners as to keep a set of un-molested ones for future use. I modified one set by using a heat gun to shape some spots, and cut out the louvers. I picked up an aluminum sheet of mesh, formed it, and riveted it into place. This was 75% of the rubbing for me. Doing this gave the tire an extra 1/2" depth, and it no longer rubbed.

Do yourself a favor and use driveway chalk (or the like) and color in the liner. This way you will be able to see where the tire is rubbing ,so you can make adjustments.

I also wanted 30 profile tires, and I was determined to make them fit.

What do the fender liners cost? Just curious.

Attached are pictures of the places i had to address.

1. In your picture in front of the wheel i inverted the outer edge/crease, just heated it up and pushed it in.
2. For the grills i was only seeing rubbing on the outer half of the vent. So i heated up that 1/2 of the grills, like super heated almost mushy, then placed a 2x4 over the area and used my quick clamps (reversed) and applied pressure against the rotor and allowed to cool. This pushed it back quite a bit but obviously had a lot of rebound. Will check to see if it worked.
3. Behind the front wheel I also inverted another edge/crease, the longer skinny red marked one. This should resolve that rub.
4. The one that i am not sure of is just behind the front wheel that curved ledge (circled in blue). I heated up and got it out of the way as much as possible but there is lower fender support material there (metal). I could have easily trimmed back that piece of metal but hated to cut it. so i will see how it works out.

I believe at worse I am 90% clear, at best i fixed everything.

 

[protraxduner]

Started my next project. Painting rear spoiler and side mirrors. LET me tell you removing the rear spoiler (base model) is a TOTAL PITA! Removing 4 nuts is easy...just don't drop them in the trunk lid. BUT they used like a square foot of double side tape that is STUCK on. I used the fishing string method and had to buy some 25lb test for it to work. Used goo gone as a lubricant and went pretty well just time and patience 'sawing' thru the tape. The center section is kinda tricky as you have to lift up and feed the string thru to saw the center section between the studs. And nobody told me the trunk is paper thin, so don't go pulling before all the tape is released. However on the corner of the decklid, hidden by the spoiler , paint was removed where it contacted spoiler directly. This was NOT a removal method issue but just paint to paint sticking. Very small and is hidden but i can see where the 2 painted parts made direct contact. All that double sided tape and yet small place that made contact.

 

[Jmeo]

What do the fender liners cost? Just curious.

If memory serves, $50 ish each

Attached are pictures of the places i had to address.

1. In your picture in front of the wheel i inverted the outer edge/crease, just heated it up and pushed it in. I only had to adjust the portion of this area that you can see is rough. Same procedure as you, just not as much reworking needed since the 315 diameter is less than the 325.
2. For the grills i was only seeing rubbing on the outer half of the vent. So i heated up that 1/2 of the grills, like super heated almost mushy, then placed a 2x4 over the area and used my quick clamps (reversed) and applied pressure against the rotor and allowed to cool. This pushed it back quite a bit but obviously had a lot of rebound. Will check to see if it worked. Mine only rubbed the first half of the frill as well. I replaced the whole thing because it was easier to use the outer edge to rivet the grill in place. That, and it looked better being the whole area than just 1/2.
3. Behind the front wheel I also inverted another edge/crease, the longer skinny red marked one. This should resolve that rub. I also reworked the area behind the wheel. Again, not as much as you because of the 315's smaller diameter.
4. The one that i am not sure of is just behind the front wheel that curved ledge (circled in blue). I heated up and got it out of the way as much as possible but there is lower fender support material there (metal). I could have easily trimmed back that piece of metal but hated to cut it. so i will see how it works out. I ended up removing the bracket you mentioned. Only the bracket, I did not remove the portion with the hole for the plastic push pin. After this, I reassembled the liner and used a rubber mallet to tap the above mentioned push pin location slightly rearward. I am not sure if I HAD to remove the bracket, that was one of the first things I did, and it took doing the other things we talked about to rid the slight rub.

I believe at worse I am 90% clear, at best i fixed everything.

 

[09cs]

Started my next project. Painting rear spoiler and side mirrors. LET me tell you removing the rear spoiler (base model) is a TOTAL PITA! Removing 4 nuts is easy...just don't drop them in the trunk lid. BUT they used like a square foot of double side tape that is STUCK on. I used the fishing string method and had to buy some 25lb test for it to work. Used goo gone as a lubricant and went pretty well just time and patience 'sawing' thru the tape. The center section is kinda tricky as you have to lift up and feed the string thru to saw the center section between the studs. And nobody told me the trunk is paper thin, so don't go pulling before all the tape is released. However on the corner of the decklid, hidden by the spoiler , paint was removed where it contacted spoiler directly. This was NOT a removal method issue but just paint to paint sticking. Very small and is hidden but i can see where the 2 painted parts made direct contact. All that double sided tape and yet small place that made contact.

I have been waiting to see one with a paint matched swing

 

[wilkinda65]

I have been waiting to see one with a paint matched swing

mine matches....

 

[09cs]

mine matches....

tocuhe!

 

[protraxduner]

Also like to note that i had the gurney flap on mine and been on for about 2 months and it appears to have left marks on the spoiler where the felt touches.....Likely can be buffed off but long term i think it will leave a mark.

 

[Snoopy49]

I am waiting to see how much disassembly will be required in order to remove the mirror caps for paint.

 

[Jmeo]

I am waiting to see how much disassembly will be required in order to remove the mirror caps for paint.

If you stand on the fender side of the morror, just grab an pull towards you ,and they come right off.