[?] '18 Intake Manifold on '15-'17

[vanquishvzla]

339? Are you running 7 cylinders only?

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[chain]

339? Are you running 7 cylinders only?

LMAO, didn't catch what I wrote lol. 439!!! LOL

 

[vanquishvzla]

439 is a number that i like... is your intake manifold ported or not? Anything else besides that?

 

[chain]

So I haven't been on the forum much and apparently being busy in life with other things haven't thought much about my Mustang either. I'm in PA so it's been put up as of late. Anyways I forgot I was catless when I first did the exhaust. My wife hated the smell and I don't want her to not enjoy the car. That said I had the performance shop I dealt with weld in a set of Kook's high flow cats when they worked on it. The 439 was with those cats installed.

 

[chain]

I am not ported no. I discussed that with my tuner and he said for the money he didn't think the gain was worth it. I went with his recommendation. The intake is an Airaid. He said he has had good luck with them and doesn't like the open top CAI's as they pull in too much heat from the engine bay. He works almost exclusively on Mustang's and I went with what he felt would be a good setup. I am happy with what I got and wouldn't change it.

 

[Chad1986]

I have that exact setup. Got 339 to the wheels after dyno tune. That is catless.

I think either your tuner or Dyno is broken. These cars Dyno significantly higher than that bone stock

 

[Chad1986]

I think either your tuner or Dyno is broken. These cars Dyno significantly higher than that bone stock

Just saw the 439 number, that's a little more realistic.

 

[XDeplorableTim]

I was watching a YouTube Video about putting the 2018 Intake on 11-17 GT's. Main benefit seems to be that it produces significantly more HP / Torque north of 7200 RPM, but the VLogger mentions that these high revs could eat up the oil pump gears pretty quick, and frankly, as my 17 red lines at 6500, how healthy is it for the motor to be consistently running in the 7500 range ?

Peace

Tim

 

[BmacIL]

I was watching a YouTube Video about putting the 2018 Intake on 11-17 GT's. Main benefit seems to be that it produces significantly more HP / Torque north of 7200 RPM, but the VLogger mentions that these high revs could eat up the oil pump gears pretty quick, and frankly, as my 17 red lines at 6500, how healthy is it for the motor to be consistently running in the 7500 range ?

Peace

Tim

Consistently? You'll want to beef up other things if you're sitting there a lot. Occasionally? It's fine. The thing that gets pump gears is hitting rev limiters at 8000+ rpm or spending time north of 7000 when boosted. There are a good insurance policy, but by no means required for NA setups, particularly street driven. Remember, the 2018+ cars have 7500 redline and its the same gear.

 

[EFI]

Remember, the 2018+ cars have 7500 redline and its the same gear.

They also have a revised viscous crank damper, which is one of the big reasons why the redline was able to increase.

@XDeplorableTim if you're staying N/A and not bouncing off the limiter and only occasionally revving to 7500, you should have no issues with the OPGs or the engine itself. What kills OPGs is the engine harmonics that are introduced by said bouncing off the limiter, or high RPMs (8000+) or additional stress from boosting. You're not going there, so again you should be fine.

If you want a much cheaper insurance policy, install an ATI or even a stock 18 crank damper. Avoiding the bad things that cause parts to break should always be done first (especially when it's easier) rather than trying to band-aid a problem with stronger parts.

 

[XDeplorableTim]

They also have a revised viscous crank damper, which is one of the big reasons why the redline was able to increase.

@XDeplorableTim if you're staying N/A and not bouncing off the limiter and only occasionally revving to 7500, you should have no issues with the OPGs or the engine itself. What kills OPGs is the engine harmonics that are introduced by said bouncing off the limiter, or high RPMs (8000+) or additional stress from boosting. You're not going there, so again you should be fine.

If you want a much cheaper insurance policy, install an ATI or even a stock 18 crank damper. Avoiding the bad things that cause parts to break should always be done first (especially when it's easier) rather than trying to band-aid a problem with stronger parts.

Thanks guys. This is a whole new world to me. My FIRST Mustang was a 69. Easy to work on till I decided it needed a 351 Cleveland I am an old gearhead, and while very well equipped, and extremely mechanically inclined, the last (non maintenance) vehicle work I did of any consequence was my '78 F-150 shortbed 4x4. Did a body-off resto, rebuilt both my 411 posi rears, did body and suspension lifts, ridiculous mud suspension, pulled out the stock 300 straight 6 (had almost a half million miles on it !), bought a used 302, stripped it down, had it bored .40 over, had the heads redone, then built the motor myself with a huge long duration cam, put a Holley 750 on an Edelbrock Torker, and let the headers breathe straight into a pair of Thrush tubes (no cat). The only tuning I did on that was on the Blaupunkt audio system, LOL. VERY different world. I got a "taste" of what its like to work on cars of today when I decided to do a trans service on my Mercedes. Back in the day, that was a 90 minute job. Now its an all day affair. Been too long since I tore into a vehicle, and I'm really looking forward to my 17 CSGT becoming my "life project" LOL.

Have a great weekend all !

Tim

 

[XDeplorableTim]

They also have a revised viscous crank damper, which is one of the big reasons why the redline was able to increase.

Forgive me for what is probably a dumb question, but is the viscous crank damper taking the place of a harmonic balancer ?

Tim

 

[EFI]

Forgive me for what is probably a dumb question, but is the viscous crank damper taking the place of a harmonic balancer ?

Tim

Yes, crank damper is the same as the harmonic balancer. It's fluid filled so provides a bit more cushion to dampen the engine harmonics.

 

[poncho@home]

They also have a revised viscous crank damper, which is one of the big reasons why the redline was able to increase.

@XDeplorableTim if you're staying N/A and not bouncing off the limiter and only occasionally revving to 7500, you should have no issues with the OPGs or the engine itself. What kills OPGs is the engine harmonics that are introduced by said bouncing off the limiter, or high RPMs (8000+) or additional stress from boosting. You're not going there, so again you should be fine.

If you want a much cheaper insurance policy, install an ATI or even a stock 18 crank damper. Avoiding the bad things that cause parts to break should always be done first (especially when it's easier) rather than trying to band-aid a problem with stronger parts.

The 2018+ crank damper or the ATI. Would it be beneficial on a basically stock engine as well? I currently have the Ford PP1 tune, but will likely eventually move up to the 2018+ intake manifold and a new tune to take advantage of the increased RPM, but will it be beneficial if I do the crank damper upgrade without ever going to the 2018+ IM? Or is it a waste of money at ±7100 rpm shifts?

 

[EFI]

The 2018+ crank damper or the ATI. Would it be beneficial on a basically stock engine as well? I currently have the Ford PP1 tune, but will likely eventually move up to the 2018+ intake manifold and a new tune to take advantage of the increased RPM, but will it be beneficial if I do the crank damper upgrade without ever going to the 2018+ IM? Or is it a waste of money at ±7100 rpm shifts?

IMHO it would be a good upgrade even for that range, especially if you will be keeping the RPMs up constantly say on a road course or drag strip. Engine harmonics are present throughout the engine range, and reducing those has many other internal benefits than just protecting the OPGs.

That being said, for a moderately driven street car staying at or below 7000rpm it's not really important. However, it's not that hard to do and its relatively cheap (unlike OPGs)

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