17 Mustang GT trying to run wire from amp to door speakers

[Bsingh897]

I upgraded my door speakers and I’m trying to run speaker wire from amp to the door speaker to power and give it signal. However I have to fish it through the door grommet and it would be a pain in the butt. Is there a wire I can tap into instead and use the factory speaker harness?

I have a 17GT base 6 stereo package so I do not have a factory amp to tap

Sponsored

 

[Racemaster]

This is what I found on a quick search
I think the plug is in the right side kick panel..Match the colors up to make sure you have the correct plug.
A easy way is to look in the trunk up at the speakers and check the colors there.
https://www.mustangecoboost.net/threads/audio-wiring-diagram.17723/

Just found this.Make it simple and clean.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-18-FO...494880?hash=item1caef6cfa0:g:hskAAOSwCn5bJKWt

 

[StangTime]

I don't think the wires for the 6 speaker system will be in the right kick panel. The base model GT has the amp and CD player as one unit in the dash. The wires for the speakers come out the back of this metal box. There's another fellow on here that blew up his audio unit doing the splice into the right kick panel wiring because he was following the wiring for the premium which has a trunk mounted factory amp. Get your hands on a wire diagram specific to YOUR model. The connector you want is # C240A. The first link posted by Racemaster looks like the right one for the base 6 speaker system.

 

[Bsingh897]

I may have blown my cd unit. I seem a base cd unit specific to my mustang on eBay for fairly cheap. I’m thinking of re connecting those spliced wires and removing and installing the new cd unit. My question is do I have to do some programming on forescan to program the new radio cd unit to work my current car? According to the seller it is from a base 6 speaker Gt without amp which is exactly
Like mine

 

[StangTime]

I may have blown my cd unit. I seem a base cd unit specific to my mustang on eBay for fairly cheap. I’m thinking of re connecting those spliced wires and removing and installing the new cd unit. My question is do I have to do some programming on forescan to program the new radio cd unit to work my current car? According to the seller it is from a base 6 speaker Gt without amp which is exactly
Like mine

It should just be plug and play.

 

[Bsingh897]

I don't think the wires for the 6 speaker system will be in the right kick panel. The base model GT has the amp and CD player as one unit in the dash. The wires for the speakers come out the back of this metal box. There's another fellow on here that blew up his audio unit doing the splice into the right kick panel wiring because he was following the wiring for the premium which has a trunk mounted factory amp. Get your hands on a wire diagram specific to YOUR model. The connector you want is # C240A. The first link posted by Racemaster looks like the right one for the base 6 speaker system.

Ok,

Sorry, I'm am new to this. So for me to power the aftermarket speaker that installed on the doors either tap the existing wire harness which can be found BEHIND the radio unit (metal silver box) which are the colors

Front Speaker: White+ White Brown -
Right Speaker White/Violete+ White/Orange-

So basically I connect my amp wire to those and it should power the speakers? I also noticed that the tweeters are connected or spliced with those wires according to the diagram. My new setup, the tweeters runs wire directly to the amp and I just zip tied the old wire.

OR (which im trying to avoid)

Figure out how to run the speaker wires from amp through the door boot and into the door.

Sorry if I am reiterating I just want to make sure I am doing it correctly. Also behind the 4" sync screen, what is the black square box that has an ECU like harness plugged into it?

 

[StangTime]

Ok,

Sorry, I'm am new to this. So for me to power the aftermarket speaker that installed on the doors either tap the existing wire harness which can be found BEHIND the radio unit (metal silver box) which are the colors

Front Speaker: White+ White Brown -
Right Speaker White/Violete+ White/Orange-

So basically I connect my amp wire to those and it should power the speakers? I also noticed that the tweeters are connected or spliced with those wires according to the diagram. My new setup, the tweeters runs wire directly to the amp and I just zip tied the old wire.

OR (which im trying to avoid)

Figure out how to run the speaker wires from amp through the door boot and into the door.

Sorry if I am reiterating I just want to make sure I am doing it correctly. Also behind the 4" sync screen, what is the black square box that has an ECU like harness plugged into it?

No worries man. Lot's of conflicting info out there due to the various differences between models.

Yes, make your connections behind the radio for the mid-bass drivers in your door and you won't need to fish through the door boots. Cut the wire a few inches back from the factory amp connector, connect your new amp to the wires going to the speakers and tape off and leave the wire on the factory amp connector side disconnected. But for the tweeters, because you are doing an "active" system by your description, you will need to connect them as you already described. Just make absolutely sure you have disconnected the factory tweeter wires (White & White Brown) and insulate them good so they can't short out on anything. Do the same on the right side of the car.

Before you connect your new amp to the speaker wiring, test your connections at the new amp to ensure you haven't mixed anything up. Use a standard 9V battery and touch each pair of speaker wires briefly to the 9V battery. You should hear a noise if all is good. Now if your new tweeters have a blocking capacitor connected in series with them, you may not hear them. Try tapping the wire to the battery terminal rapidly to get some signal through.

That black box you are referring to is the Sync module.

 

[Cathul]

Don't splice the wires behind the ACM. Never ever do that. You better use a T-harness to be plugged in between the ACM and the factory harness like the CARAV 12-240.

 

[Bsingh897]

No worries man. Lot's of conflicting info out there due to the various differences between models.

Yes, make your connections behind the radio for the mid-bass drivers in your door and you won't need to fish through the door boots. Cut the wire a few inches back from the factory amp connector, connect your new amp to the wires going to the speakers and tape off and leave the wire on the factory amp connector side disconnected. But for the tweeters, because you are doing an "active" system by your description, you will need to connect them as you already described. Just make absolutely sure you have disconnected the factory tweeter wires (White & White Brown) and insulate them good so they can't short out on anything. Do the same on the right side of the car.

Before you connect your new amp to the speaker wiring, test your connections at the new amp to ensure you haven't mixed anything up. Use a standard 9V battery and touch each pair of speaker wires briefly to the 9V battery. You should hear a noise if all is good. Now if your new tweeters have a blocking capacitor connected in series with them, you may not hear them. Try tapping the wire to the battery terminal rapidly to get some signal through.

That black box you are referring to is the Sync module.

So i found out that this harness bottom panel is for speaker, I can technically tap into this bottom two wires and they will go straight to the speaker that is located in the right side door. The speakers above that I spliced goes back to the amp. Would it be a good idea to power the door speaker from this harness to avoid taking apart the center console? I also provided a diagram of the base speaker.

Sponsored