15 Mustang manual ordered stage 2 P1X Procharger. Any tips or insight?

[Unas2k5]

I have a 15 GT Premium Manual with Stainless Works long tube headers, HF Cats , Catbacks CAI, & Tune plus suspension mods.
I ordered a stage 2 Procharger from Jegs, they had them in stock and it will be delivered Wednesday . The is the link :
https://www.jegs.com/i/ProCharger/780/1FW212-P1X/10002/-1
I also ordered:

-UPR Crankcase Breather kit
-Mishimoto Mustang Racist thermostat 160 degrees
-Brisk High Boost RR12s Racing Spark Plugs
-J & L Mustang 3.0 Oil Seperator

I will be installing it with a friend. Do I need anything else? Any tips? It says I need gauges to monitor manifold boost pressure , fuel pressure, wide band 02 sensor & gauge. I don't know why this doesn't come with the kit. smh

Any extra unordinary tools that you think might help?

Thank you

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[Brad1810r80]

Not to be that person, but I'd cancel that order through jegs. I 'd go with something from beefcake that has custom tuning and it probably still end up being cheaper. You'll leave A LOT of power on the table with the procharger tuning.

 

[Roush05]

Gauges don't come with any kit really. Boost gauge is good to have as well as fuel pressure, but your car has a wideband already in the dash cluster. It has fuel pressure too but it only shows "low" or "normal" or "high", not an actual psi value. And you can turn on the boost gauge function in the dash as well with forscan, but I personally like a dedicated gauge.

As far as tips:

You will need a Dremel or a grinder with a metal grinding bit to grind away about 3/4" of metal off of the driver side, timing cover (?).

You will have to remove the front fascia. If you have never done this, be careful with the clips on the inside at the top of the driver and passenger side. They break very easily and the fascia will not line up properly if they break unless you rig some zip ties or quick release latches.

If you have never done much work on stuff like this before, make sure you really tighten down your hose clamps or get some t clamps. You will have pipes pop off otherwise. Not a big deal, but your car will go into limp mode and you'll have to reconnect them before driving again. I'd carry a screwdriver or something in your car so you can fix it if it happens while you are driving. Some people use a little hairspray when fitting intake hosing together to help prevent this from happening.

Make sure to attach the braided oil hose to the head unit and route it down towards your fender well. That way you can just turn your wheel, pop the fender cover loose, and access the line. It makes oil changes a lot easier.

More as I think of it.

 

[Keo_S550]

I agree with @Roush05 and would also add a 3 jaw puller for the crank pulley and a balancer install bolt to make it easier to reinstall the new balancer. You’ll probably need some new coolant also or just dump it all into a clean bucket.

 

[ProChargerTECH]

You will need a Dremel or a grinder with a metal grinding bit to grind away about 3/4" of metal off of the driver side, timing cover (?).

He has a Stage 2 kit, so this isn't needed. (This only apply to HO kits and only the cars with the GT350 style head that has the rib that sticks out a bit further then earlier GT's)

I agree with @Roush05 and would also add a 3 jaw puller for the crank pulley and a balancer install bolt to make it easier to reinstall the new balancer.

He won't be removing the balancer, since none of our kits require that. Unless someone ordered an aftermarket balancer.

 

[DrPepper1970]

I installed a Stage II on my 2020 a few months ago. There may be a few differences between our years but here are a couple things that stood out to me.

I had to remove sway bar to install 8 rib crank pulley. Needed about 3 feet of extensions for ratchet to reach 3 of the 4 bolts from the top. The 4th bolt is underneath the alternator and is removed from the drivers side wheel well. If possible, get a ratcheting wrench to remove it. A regular ratchet is too tall and you can only turn the bolt about 1/8 turn each time with a regular wrench. You may be able to leave this bolt in and move the sway bar enough to install the pulley, but I couldn't.

Bolts for cam locks on crank pulley. Manual says use a 1/2 socket on those bolts, but mine were hex head. Needed long hex head sockets to tighten them once installed.

Make sure you have thread sealant for all the brass fittings for the new coolant tank.

If you install the oil drain line for the supercharger, make sure you put it somewhere you can easily reach it. I didn't and had to remove the plastic piece under the front end to get to it when it was time to change oil. It is now inside the fender near the air filter so I can reach it through the tire fender well by taking off 2 push pins.

For the air filter and standard surge valve, mount them as far rearward in the fender well as possible. The backside of the foglight uses that space as well. Also, check to make sure the air filter inlet assembly is not too long. Mine stuck down about 2 inches farther than the bottom of the fascia. I just trimmed a couple of pieces to shorten it up.

All in all, it was a pretty easy install. Just take your time and follow the instructions. I have some notes about it somewhere, just cant find them right now. If I can find them, I'll let you know anything else I noted.

Good luck.

 

[Unas2k5]

Thank you all for your responses. I installed it successfully it was difficult lol The worst part was the tubing/plumbing I had to make adjustment to it and that took forever. I tuned it with Lund it runs great!
I just ordered a Fore return style fuel system from PBdyno so I can run 85. I will be keeping my current pulley since I believe it is the max with 93 so I can switch back and forth as needed without changing pulleys. The 4.25 is at least 10 lb of boost and I read that is the max.

 

[KKell83]

I have a 15 GT Premium Manual with Stainless Works long tube headers, HF Cats , Catbacks CAI, & Tune plus suspension mods.
I ordered a stage 2 Procharger from Jegs, they had them in stock and it will be delivered Wednesday . The is the link :
https://www.jegs.com/i/ProCharger/780/1FW212-P1X/10002/-1
I also ordered:

-UPR Crankcase Breather kit
-Mishimoto Mustang Racist thermostat 160 degrees
-Brisk High Boost RR12s Racing Spark Plugs
-J & L Mustang 3.0 Oil Seperator

I will be installing it with a friend. Do I need anything else? Any tips? It says I need gauges to monitor manifold boost pressure , fuel pressure, wide band 02 sensor & gauge. I don't know why this doesn't come with the kit. smh

Any extra unordinary tools that you think might help?

Thank you

You'll have a fun car for sure! I have a stage 2 P1x too.

 

[Unas2k5]

Yeah its fun! Im taking it to Brenspeed to do the OPG & sprocket and the L2 Fuel system!

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