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10R80 Owners - ULTIMATE M6G 10R80 Facts + Resolutions to harsh or no shift conditions

andrewtac

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Some of you need to bulk up!

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I don't think it is a size thing, it is how you hold your foot. While I am not what I once was I can still do squat work sets at 315. Getting old sucks, better than the alternative though.
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Matthewstorm

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I think I figured it out. When using paddles I slam my foot down to Redline then shift and remove my foot then immediately put it down again. The point is my foot is off the gas during shift.
 

4sdvenom

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I think I figured it out. When using paddles I slam my foot down to Redline then shift and remove my foot then immediately put it down again. The point is my foot is off the gas during shift.
There is no reason to lift your foot from the accelerator when shifting! Keep the accelerator pinned to the floor the whole way through or at least as far as safety allows.
 

Matthewstorm

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There is no reason to lift your foot from the accelerator when shifting! Keep the accelerator pinned to the floor the whole way through or at least as far as safety allows.
Didn't mean to imply I'm manually shifting. It's an auto. If I don't do this my foot bounces off the pedal.
 

4sdvenom

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Didn't mean to imply I'm manually shifting. It's an auto. If I don't do this my foot bounces off the pedal.
I realize it’s an auto. You still don’t want to lift your foot after you shift then slam it back down again. That is why it’s bouncing and jerking!
if you have your foot firmly planted to the floor to redline and either the transmission shifts itself or you paddle shift it manually there is no reason it wouldn’t stay there completely through the shift.
Lifting after you shift and then back on the gas will just confuse the computer if it’s in auto mode or will jerk from the sudden on-off-on of the gas pedal if using the paddles.
 

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Matthewstorm

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I realize it’s an auto. You still don’t want to lift your foot after you shift then slam it back down again. That is why it’s bouncing and jerking!
if you have your foot firmly planted to the floor to redline and either the transmission shifts itself or you paddle shift it manually there is no reason it wouldn’t stay there completely through the shift.
Lifting after you shift and then back on the gas will just confuse the computer if it’s in auto mode or will jerk from the sudden on-off-on of the gas pedal if using the paddles.
Yeah, actually that's not what makes it jerk. That's what stops it from jerking. It works for me. Definitely not a permenant solution. But, it's something I've found that keeps my foot from bouncing off the pedal, because my foots already off the pedal. I know I have to come up with a better solution.
 

t-zoo

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How adaptive is the learning? How long does it take for changes to take place and what are the parameters? If driving in a conservative manner using drive modes other than normal, will performance in those modes be diminished until driven more aggressively?
 

AZHowln50

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Yeah, actually that's not what makes it jerk. That's what stops it from jerking. It works for me. Definitely not a permenant solution. But, it's something I've found that keeps my foot from bouncing off the pedal, because my foots already off the pedal. I know I have to come up with a better solution.
I have tried this as well when at the track, road course, in Track mode. The jerking was not helped by completely letting off of gas, just created jerking from gear change under engine braking. I just give it neutral amount of gas before engine braking occurs. Problem I have is late in a session trans gets sluggish when hot. I was taking a slow turn onto straight and requires multiple gears to be downshifted, it was shifting slow and thought maybe I didn’t downshift to right gear, hit the paddle one more time began to accelerate into straight out of turn and it went down 2 instead of 1 gear and I lit the tires up and had to catch it before meeting a tire wall. Not predictable based on inputs when hot. Had a BMW 335i before and loved the car more after flashing the trans with Alpina flash. Was able to floor it and shift and the shift was so fast I did not have to worry about sluggish jerky shifts. Is there a trans tune out there that sorts these issues? I know it won’t last as long but at least it will be predictable. Trans replacement sooner is prob cheaper than repairs after wrecking.
 

LetItRide1978

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I haven't seen too many people here complain about the jerking or bucking issue, but it's been kind of a problem for me since day one. Basically, when I'm in sport mode at part throttle/low gear, and the car makes a hard shift, it makes my foot unintentionally blip on and off the gas pedal, so the car gets into this cycle of lunging forward and back until I either lift off, or mash the pedal all the way down. I have big clumsy feet too (12.5 extra wide).
Glad I found this thread and that it’s not just my car. My trans does this exact same thing. Best solution I’ve found so far is to drive around a bit in Normal mode before switching over to Sport. It seems better after the car has warmed up a bit.

I have jerky up shifts and downshifts too. Mostly noticeable when slowing down in Sport or Track mode.
 
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LetItRide1978

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Question: Since I have the Ford Performance calibration (M-9603-M8B), would there be no point in asking my dealership about software updates? Wouldn’t any update they do overwrite the Ford Performance calibration?
 

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EFI

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Shouldn't affect anything. Tuning and engine management live on a separate system from general software updates.
Pretty sure he means software updates in the ECU not the infotainment.

In which case, if the dealer flashes anything it will completely wipe out any changes made by the FRPP tune. So you should deny any such flash updates.
 

LetItRide1978

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Pretty sure he means software updates in the ECU not the infotainment.

In which case, if the dealer flashes anything it will completely wipe out any changes made by the FRPP tune. So you should deny any such flash updates.
Thanks! That is what I meant. So that means it’s not a software issue. Reset the KAM today and it was better. Still a little jerky on downshifting even after letting the car warm up in Normal mode.
 

MNstang

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Thanks! That is what I meant. So that means it’s not a software issue. Reset the KAM today and it was better. Still a little jerky on downshifting even after letting the car warm up in Normal mode.
I just had the dealership do a full Kam reset on my 2019. I did not realize there is a whole process to go through after the Kam reset. I am sure a lot of people know this but I did not. I did a Kam reset on my own without going through the steps afterwards and it had zero effect on the trans shifting characteristics. Since the dealer reset the Kam and correctly went through the on road steps, my trans has smoothed out quite a bit. Hope that helps someone!
 

LetItRide1978

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I just had the dealership do a full Kam reset on my 2019. I did not realize there is a whole process to go through after the Kam reset. I am sure a lot of people know this but I did not. I did a Kam reset on my own without going through the steps afterwards and it had zero effect on the trans shifting characteristics. Since the dealer reset the Kam and correctly went through the on road steps, my trans has smoothed out quite a bit. Hope that helps someone!
I’ve seen the steps and they seem like a giant pain in the ass to do. But I suppose I should try them before having the dealership mess with it. I don’t have the digital dash so I’m not sure if there is a way to tell what gear I’m in. Also would need to find an abandoned stretch of road out in the country to do this lol.
 
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Cobra Jet

Cobra Jet

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The recalibration steps are also found in the 1st post of this thread in middle where all FAQ's are noted. Once a KAM reset has been done, the trans needs to be recal'd leet hair steps and followed exactly as outlined by Ford.

if a KAM reset or software recal does not improve the trans characteristics, then it's not a software issue... it's hardware related.
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