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Cobra Jet

Cobra Jet

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Pan arrrived.
Will go in dec28.
Love the magnetic drain plug to easy drain the fluid from under the pan.
Also a 1/8" NPT plug for sensor there.

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Ooooooooooooo...... that is n-I-c-e!! Do keep us posted on your install and results.
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fatbillybob

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the cooler is already there..not sure why you want to change location of pick up and return. I wont touch the location. what i will do is to keep an open flow all the time. first this pan. it is an extra,defientely not THE solution. i think tho at speed with fins and metal i can see 10deg less? at least what i hope
wsir in January is not a good test. It could snow on the 14 in January! if you get hot in July at brp read again my post #236. I’m pretty sure what you have isn’t going to work based on your history and development of your car. More power and more grip make more heat.
 

Flyhalf

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wsir in January is not a good test. It could snow on the 14 in January! if you get hot in July at brp read again my post #236. I’m pretty sure what you have isn’t going to work based on your history and development of your car. More power and more grip make more heat.
To be fair. My temps are under controls with normal outtemps. Wsir was the first time where i recorded my 1st tranny failure. Lots of speed and rpm. We will see :)
 

fatbillybob

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To be fair. My temps are under controls with normal outtemps. Wsir was the first time where i recorded my 1st tranny failure. Lots of speed and rpm. We will see :)
T2 is 100+mph and T8 is 130mph+ both right hand. Ask the tranny guy if there is any chance there could be oil starvation from high G turn like you can in wet sump motors.
 

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fatbillybob

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To be fair. My temps are under controls with normal outtemps. Wsir was the first time where i recorded my 1st tranny failure. Lots of speed and rpm. We will see :)
oh my mistake. I thought as late as before your Camaro purchase you were still not happy with cooling.
 

Flyhalf

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Is the torque converter failing. And all tends to overheat lol. Yes. The trans cooler is always at the limit.
 

filipradenovic

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I already posted this on Lemon Law thread, but posting here because this thread seems more to date:


Hello,

I am in the process of trying to replace my Mustang EcoBoost Convertible 2018 because it is a lemon, in California. My RAV representative is not very clear.

Some info about the car:
Bought used, with 20335 miles on the odometer, price: $22998
Original window sticker MSRP: $41200
Transmission problems started at 23922 miles on the odometer.

First, my RAV representative ignored offering replacement and offered refund that seems right:
Refund in full after deducting used miles:
3,587 miles / 120,000 * $22,998.00 = $687.45

However, when I asked about replacement, this is what he said:
"You would be responsible for your usage and any upgrade charges. As your vehicle was purchased used, the upgrade would be the difference between the base price of your vehicle ($22,998) and the AZ Plan price of the vehicle you select."

This doesn't seem right. From what I read on here, and from reading Lemon Law in CA, this is what I think I should pay:
23922 miles / 120000 * $41200 = $8237.25 PLUS any difference in new MSRP with original MSRP.

Am I correct, and is there a document I can reference to convince him of that?

Thank you!

@Cobra Jet can you provide help with this if you know it? I would be very grateful, and so far your help was of a big help to me!!!

Edit: My RAV representative replied to my request with this:
Unfortunately, we are not able to process Replacements for ordered vehicles. It would need to be a vehicle that is currently on a dealer lot.

The reason we use the base price instead of the MSRP for the upgrade is because you did purchase the vehicle used. We only use the MSRP if the vehicle was purchased new. We also use the base price, not MSRP, in the usage formula for any vehicle, new or used.
Is this true? Nothing I can do about this? If it is true, this would be one VERY expensive replacement.
 
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mustangpegasus51

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I already posted this on Lemon Law thread, but posting here because this thread seems more to date:


Hello,

I am in the process of trying to replace my Mustang EcoBoost Convertible 2018 because it is a lemon, in California. My RAV representative is not very clear.

Some info about the car:
Bought used, with 20335 miles on the odometer, price: $22998
Original window sticker MSRP: $41200
Transmission problems started at 23922 miles on the odometer.

First, my RAV representative ignored offering replacement and offered refund that seems right:
Refund in full after deducting used miles:
3,587 miles / 120,000 * $22,998.00 = $687.45

However, when I asked about replacement, this is what he said:
"You would be responsible for your usage and any upgrade charges. As your vehicle was purchased used, the upgrade would be the difference between the base price of your vehicle ($22,998) and the AZ Plan price of the vehicle you select."

This doesn't seem right. From what I read on here, and from reading Lemon Law in CA, this is what I think I should pay:
23922 miles / 120000 * $41200 = $8237.25 PLUS any difference in new MSRP with original MSRP.

Am I correct, and is there a document I can reference to convince him of that?

Thank you!

@Cobra Jet can you provide help with this if you know it? I would be very grateful, and so far your help was of a big help to me!!!

Edit: My RAV representative replied to my request with this:

Is this true? Nothing I can do about this? If it is true, this would be one VERY expensive replacement.
I recently went through lemon law in CA a few months ago. To be honest, I didn't even know CA bothered to put used vehicles under LL; mine was purchased new. (For all the problems CA has, the LL here is pretty favorable to the consumer.)

I'll try to answer what I think you're looking for:

The first calculation is likely correct. Used car LL is more blurry AFAIK, but the usage deduction should be for how much *you* used the car, not the original owner(s).

Repurchase amount goes off purchase price, not MSRP. So if you go in with lots of discounts; if you LL the vehicle via repurchase, you will have to try your luck getting equivalent discounts on your next vehicle to break even.

The replacement (also called collateral swap) option I would think is reserved for new cars; or if they do the swap, it would be used for used (or a cheaper config for a new vehicle.) There is no "MSRP" for a used vehicle as far as I know, and that is what you purchased. i.e. if you buy a $20k-ish used car, they're not gonna give you a shiny new $40K-ish car back; that would only happen if that's what you bought in the first place.

Hypothetically if you bought a new car and LL'd it through a collateral swap, there's no rule against custom orders. Almost did it myself but the config wasn't available, so that part they told you is likely not true.

The part about the dealer lot is true. You have to go the dealer and literally "swap" the keys like a Fast and Furious movie. My desired replacement was out of state and the dealers didn't want to play ball transferring so I had to get a repurchase and buy the new vehicle myself. An ordered car would *eventually end up on the dealer's lot* so you could pause your buyback case and reopen it when the ordered car arrives and do the swap.

Again though, that last part is here nor there as you bought yours used; in this case a collateral swap is a glorified repurchase. There is some wiggle room for repurchase or replacement amount, but I would say it's within a few thousand at most.

TL;DR my first piece of advice would be to try and get a new rep as they're either misleading or at the very least confusing you. I made some somewhat-polite criticisms on the corporate social media and via email to someone at the company, and was given a new rep soon after who actually knew what they were talking about and was understanding.

Also there's really no other option than to get the $22K you paid for the vehicle or something close to that; which makes perfect sense to me -- the purpose is to make you whole. Depending on your financial situation, you may want to shop around for something you like while the process is moving, take the check and then just buy the new vehicle you want right after you hand the keys in. Especially for a used car (again, shocked you can even LL a used car) this is likely your simplest option.
 
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AZHowln50

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Please keep us posted. If it works at lowering temps I would definitely want one.
 

Flyhalf

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I will. However I think is part of a system not the only solution though.
 

MNstang

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Well, I have read this entire thread and it is a little alarming for a new A10 owner! I have a couple of thoughts/questions:

#1 - for those of you who have confirmed that you have the correct amount of trans fluid in the car, have you pulled the dipstick when the car is cold to see if any type of reading/fluid shows up on the dipstick? I'm assuming this will not work but haven't seen the question asked. It would be great to have a ballpark cold reading. I need to check my fluid level.

#2 - I have not had the car very long and it is parked in my garage for the winter (MN). Is it possible to get the trans up to temp (200 degrees so that I can check the fluid level) by allowing it to idle in the driveway? From what I have read I don't think this is going to work but wanted to see if anyone has tried it.

#3 - my trans seems good in normal mode but in sport mode it is harsh - I'll need to drive it more to see if it is showing any of the issues described above. I don't think it is but I definitely want to check the fluid level.
 

4sdvenom

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For #3 What do you mean by harsh in sport mode? The shifts in sport are intended to be a lot more firm than normal and therefore could be mistaken as harsh. Also I believe the torque management in sport is all but turned off therefore giving the harsher and firmer feel. It will also be noticed on downshifts if you let the car downshift on it’s own and somewhat noticeable when you down shift yourself depending at what RPMs and speed you downshift from.
For #2 you can try it but I’ve never seen my fiancé’s MY 15 6r80 trans fluid temp get much above 100 degrees even after setting and idling for 30-45 minutes in 30 degree outside temps. I have a feeling you probably are seeing colder outside temps than that in Minnesota.
I have nothing on #1
 

Hsq91

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So my 2019 A10 with 14000 miles had a very abrupt jolt when shifting from R to D. This car was bought used so I don't know if this problem was always present. Strangely, this only occurred when the transmission was warmed up. There was also some harsh downshifts especially in sport mode.

Took it in, dealer fortunately was able to replicate the problem. Cleared adaptives, still harsh so they replaced the valve body and updated the software. Took them a few days to get everything done.

The harsh shift into drive is gone. I also noticed shifting with the paddles is distinctly sharper and quicker. I previously thought the transmission did shift slow when using the paddles, but assumed that was a characteristic of the car.

Just wanted to share my experience in case anyone else was on the fence of taking the car in.
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