10R80 Owners - ULTIMATE M6G 10R80 Facts + Resolutions to harsh or no shift conditions

[EFI]

So I went to the dealer to have them check the trans fluid level and see if it needed topped of after seeing many stories with the pan being underfilled from the factory. I went to drop off the vehicle, and the tech said he needs to go out and drive the car until the fluid temp got to about 200* to properly check.

I told him there's no way he gets to that temperature just driving around normally as I can drive around for hours and the temp never gets above 185*. He would have to drive at WOT for like 5-10 minutes to get there and I said I didn't want to have someone else constantly beating on my car and possibly getting in trouble for speeding or crashing.

Then they said they can't take an accurate measurement without the fluid at a certain temp. This seems a bit ridiculous, as it means everytime the fluid needs checking someone has to go out and beat on the car WOT for a while just to get it there. Doesn't make much sense.

Is there no way to get an accurate reading with the fluid at a lower temp?

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[Matthewstorm]

Shouldn't it be at temp from driving to the dealer?

 

[EFI]

Shouldn't it be at temp from driving to the dealer?

Well even driving around for an hour or more the temp doesn't go over 185* and that's only in the hottest of days. On most days, it stays around 170* after long drives. The temp that day was 156* as I had some errands to run before hand.

So like my initial statement to them, the tech would have to go out and go WOT for 5-10 minutes straight to get the temp over 200* for him to be able to check the level. Maybe it's just me, but I don't really want someone doing that on my car...not to mention the possible legal implications of doing that kind of driving on public town streets with speed limits of 35-45mph.

 

[Matthewstorm]

I don't know about you but my temp never goes above 200. Guess my oil can never be checked.

 

[EFI]

I don't know about you but my temp never goes above 200. Guess my oil can never be checked.

Yeah exactly, I've never been able to get my temp that high on the street. I've done in on a road course, but again that's after beating on the car WOT straight for 5 minutes.

 

[BoostKing]

Tech just wanted to drive your car.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Pan arrrived.
Will go in dec28.
Love the magnetic drain plug to easy drain the fluid from under the pan.
Also a 1/8" NPT plug for sensor there.

@Flyhalf
Can you give us any updates on your experience with the PPE 10R80 deep pan?

 

[Flyhalf]

@Flyhalf
Can you give us any updates on your experience with the PPE 10R80 deep pan?

It is not a deep pan. Is alluminium.
Deep pan would be too low fpr us but good for The raptor.
The crusing is lower temps. 10f less.
But when you push the car there is not difference with oem.
On track you have better cooling between sessions if you "vent" with a blower or fan.
The solution is somenthing else. By pass thermostat to have cooler working 24-7.
Then the alluminium pan will be helpful.
I bought an extra valvebody to do the right mod for it. I'll work on it after NATIONALS at daytona sept 16.

 

[Cobra Jet]

It is not a deep pan. Is alluminium.
Deep pan would be too low fpr us but good for The raptor.
The crusing is lower temps. 10f less.
But when you push the car there is not difference with oem.
On track you have better cooling between sessions if you "vent" with a blower or fan.
The solution is somenthing else. By pass thermostat to have cooler working 24-7.
Then the alluminium pan will be helpful.
I bought an extra valvebody to do the right mod for it. I'll work on it after NATIONALS at daytona sept 16.

The PPE trans pan is not a deep pan? It's not deeper than the stock pan? Their advertisement labels it as a deep pan here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-shift-conditions.135463/page-16#post-3104879

 

[EFI]

The PPE trans pan is not a deep pan? It's not deeper than the stock pan? Their advertisement labels it as a deep pan here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-shift-conditions.135463/page-16#post-3104879

It probably describes it as a deep pan because it is one, not flat/shallow like what a dry sump pan would be. It doesn't actually state anywhere that it's deeper than stock.

 

[Flyhalf]

The PPE trans pan is not a deep pan? It's not deeper than the stock pan? Their advertisement labels it as a deep pan here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-shift-conditions.135463/page-16#post-3104879

They have the deep pan but is for f150

https://www.ppepower.com/shop/heavy...ansmission-pan-2017-ford-f150-with-10r80.html

 

[Cobra Jet]

August 2021 Update::
Post # 1, Page 1 updated with additional links and reformatted content with boldface sections for easier reference of 10R80 info.

10R80 specific DTC's added

Raybestos Clutch clearances pdf added

All:
This thread contains a lot of info; Post #1 of Page 1 will always contain the 10R80 FAQs and most recent M6G threads/links/PDFs to pertinent information.

 

[gmupatriot]

As you can see from the notes, I had the delay from R to D accompanied by a lurch when in forward gear. Harsh shift from 3-4 and 4-5 plus a thunking sound and harsh downshift when coming to a stop. The harsh downshift was when downshifting into 3rd from higher gears. Anyway, these symptoms started when the car had about 22,000 miles. I took the car in and all the dealership did was a KAM reset and it didn't change anything. Since there was no code/check engine light, the tech wouldn't bother looking at the issue and called it normal. 2 years and 21,000 miles later, at 43,700 miles, the WRENCH light comes on and I make an appointment with a different dealer. I spoke with the service advisor, explained to him the symptoms and dropped off the car around 8am and by 2pm I get a call saying everything is taken care of and the car drives as it should. Zero dollars out of my pocket and I have to say, the car drives flawlessly! I am extremely happy to finally have the transmission working like it did when it came off the dealership lot. Fingers crossed it stays this way.

The issue was the output shaft speed sensor which brought up code P0721. This code points to Ford TSB 18-2119 and thus the sensor was replaced under warranty along with 6 quarts of transmission fluid. I am happy to say the joy of driving this car which was missing for so long is back and I cant wait to put more miles on this thing after this fix. Prior this, I would avoid driving the car as the shifts were clunky and made the car jerk forward and back in normal or sport mode, now shifts are fast and do not abrupt the chassis at all.

 

[Flyhalf]

So UPDATE on my 10speed racecar. (Roadcourse)
Little summary
Im on my 3rd tranny. (Car has 16k miles total)
So far and finger crossed the new setup holds well.
I do timetrials but
I tested recently hard for 15mins session with a good pace (and 85f) and the temps where max 214f .

The new setup is
SETRAB COOLER 934 (i have 925 and it was working fine but i wanted to be safe)
My initial mistake with 925 was also to have the inlet and outlet under the cooler so i suspect i had a big air pocket on top.
MCLEOD CLUTCHES
ALLUMINIUM PAN (honestly...doesnt do a lot during the session but cool down faster in between them. Also helpful for daily usage where temps hardy reach 180f cruising)
I also (well my ford dealership tech) drilled holes in the plastic internal pan of the filter to increase flow btw the 2 sides.
This looks to me at the moment the best easier solution for overheating. which is the REAL ISSUE on this tranny (as demostrated by the fact than the mach1 has bigger coolers. )

I have also a water spray system on my coolers. It works well on the engine oil but doesn't do a lot on trans cooler.

THE NEXT STEP IS bypassing the internal thermostat. (F150 has an external one. )
I have bought a used valvebody to test it.
I will start after my NATIONALS on sept 16.
I will keep you posted
Alessandro

 

[MNstang]

As you can see from the notes, I had the delay from R to D accompanied by a lurch when in forward gear. Harsh shift from 3-4 and 4-5 plus a thunking sound and harsh downshift when coming to a stop. The harsh downshift was when downshifting into 3rd from higher gears. Anyway, these symptoms started when the car had about 22,000 miles. I took the car in and all the dealership did was a KAM reset and it didn't change anything. Since there was no code/check engine light, the tech wouldn't bother looking at the issue and called it normal. 2 years and 21,000 miles later, at 43,700 miles, the WRENCH light comes on and I make an appointment with a different dealer. I spoke with the service advisor, explained to him the symptoms and dropped off the car around 8am and by 2pm I get a call saying everything is taken care of and the car drives as it should. Zero dollars out of my pocket and I have to say, the car drives flawlessly! I am extremely happy to finally have the transmission working like it did when it came off the dealership lot. Fingers crossed it stays this way.

The issue was the output shaft speed sensor which brought up code P0721. This code points to Ford TSB 18-2119 and thus the sensor was replaced under warranty along with 6 quarts of transmission fluid. I am happy to say the joy of driving this car which was missing for so long is back and I cant wait to put more miles on this thing after this fix. Prior this, I would avoid driving the car as the shifts were clunky and made the car jerk forward and back in normal or sport mode, now shifts are fast and do not abrupt the chassis at all.

Thank you for the reply! This will help someone

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