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10r80 extra capacity drum testing 1+ years later.... and whats available for the 10r80.

beefcake

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As most know we have spent a ton of time with testing and development of the 6r80 and have built 100s and 100s of those with great success.

We jumped right into the 10r80 game and have probably done 50+ at this point. I get questions all the time on whats out there and what someone needs so wanted to share some info.

The first parts that rolled out were the Reybestos GPZ material that we offer through mcleod and suncoast. These clutch packs are $598. These clutches are a direct replacement with the same amount of clutches that come from the factory. These work well for mild supcharged builds 700-800 wheel.

We did testing with Reybestos blue clutch material after that, and the 10r80 did not like it at all. Trans wouldn't shift good and nothing worked right with it.

We then got some of Altos clutch sets distributed through Mcleod as well, and also a direct replacment same as the reybestos. Over time we have noticed that paper not holding up as well, better than the blue, but not as good as the gpz. Alto has since moved away and swapped all their kits over to the G3 material, which seems to be holding up very well, similar to the reybests. We have discontinued offering the original alto kits, and offer the g3 for the same price as the gpz counterpart. $598

alto also stepped up with a modified g3 kit which offers extra c and e drum clutches. They use slightly thinner steels to be able to accomplish getting an extra set of clutches in each drum. These list at $935 for the set. These should hold pretty good for up to the 1000 wheel range.

We have noticed alot of the guys doing the basic sets at 1000 wheel, having to redo the clutches after a season. I think the higher capacity should get you a couple seasons at 1000 wheel. Keep in mind, heat is your enemy and the more you run these cars at the track and the more heat you build, you will damage clutch material over time at that horsepower level.

Now, for the top of the line kit we offer. Suncoast has been hard at work creating a kit that should hold up to just about anything you throw at it. We have been testing this setup since we pulled the blue clutches out after tx2k march of 2020.

With the vortech setup which we ran though the end of 2020, we were making about 1100 wheel and running mid 8 second times at 3900lbs. Over the winter we swapped to a bl fab single kit, which we started at around 1150 wheel and are now pushing around 1300 wheel for the last couple of months. The trans has been holding up great and we haven't redone any clutches in the trans since we made the swap about 15 months ago.

Suncoast package modifies a factory e drum to accept more clutches. By using a modified drum, you can add extra capacity without sacrificing steel thickness. The thinner you go on the steels, the more change you have of damaging them from heat. Usually the extra clutches offset that by having less slip, but if you can keep thicker steels, all the better. The suncoast package also comes with extra capacity for the f drum, and a full seal and gasket kit and filter as well. This kit runs $2036.

I've attached a graph from our last trip out with our 2018 car so you could see how its shifting. For those that haven't looked at a graph, trans as they slip will look more curved vs sharp angles at thift point. That is because the shifts are not crisp, and the trans is slipping.

15 months later and we are still shifting great and with great power on the car. One of the other cool things, even with this power, and being on a turbo, we are still running the smaller 240mm suncoast converter. Normally with a pd/tvs style blower or turbo car, you run the larger converter to combat slip / holding power, but you do sacrifice some spooling and weight in the drivetrain and a little et. We are using the bolt together suncoast converter, and with swapping from the centri, we were a little concerned that the 240 would not be up to the task. Blake and Ron at suncoast were confident that the 240 would be up to the task, and to our surprise, it has held together very nice, and allows super quick spool on the BL fab 88/88 turbo. We were also able to make the stater change in house, since the converter is a full bolt together. We can also maintenance the converter ourself as its as simple as installing a new set of clutch packs if you start to wear them down.

As always, we offer all these builds in house, and we do some other proprietary things to help with allowing the trans to run a little cooler internally as well. My partner Brian @ Finish Lines handles all the labor on the trans and does an amazing job on them. And of course, Lund does a great job with the sauce to keep the car shifting great too.

basic gpz
https://www.beefcakeracing.com/mcleod-88098/

basic g3
https://www.beefcakeracing.com/mcleod-99098/

extra capacity g3
https://www.beefcakeracing.com/mcleod-99099/

suncoast with modified drum, extra capacity, full seal / filter kit
https://www.beefcakeracing.com/sc-10r80-cpk2/

and for those that already modified their trans with clutches, we do have just the e drum only available as well
https://www.beefcakeracing.com/sc-10r80-cpe2/

:)

Feel Free to DM me or call with any questions.
Terry "Beefcake" Reeves
Office - 855-TBR-RACE - Cell 513-478-1965
Owner Team Beefcake - 20+ Years Experience
Deal Directly with the boss, no pushy sales guys!!!!!!!
https://www.beefcakeracing.com - Your Forced Induction Specialists
#beefcakeracing #teambeefcake

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Tongue hanging out in 5th nice!!!!
Are we got more to go to there’s another 500 or so RPM to play with and we will be swapping to a 3.0 gear as well with a Dss 9”
 

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Spinning it up in fifth. Great information, I wonder if this is similar to what midnight has been doing. I'm guessing the modified drums, thermal bypass delete and bigger cooler should net a pretty strong and durable setup.
 
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Spinning it up in fifth. Great information, I wonder if this is similar to what midnight has been doing. I'm guessing the modified drums, thermal bypass delete and bigger cooler should net a pretty strong and durable setup.
i believe he has been maching steels down himself, which i cannot say 100% for sure. he may or may not be,

we don't want to machine any steels from the way they come manufactured as over time they may not hold up as well, thats why we have been working with large mfgs to complete the packages that we can put in, vs machining them in house ourselves. we looked at that option, but i really don't want to be on the mfg side.

not to mention a less expensive product in the end to be able to offer
 

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just swapped out my original 10r80 for one built by LPF
its their “stage “ 2 - has extra steels in E drum but not sure what else . I will see how it holds at 1100 with my Gen 5 whipple /10 rib set-goal is 1100 -1200 whp .

I also have another one similarly built by scott @richardson transmissions as back up .
He just sent me 3 of his thermal delete valves he says will help keep temps at 125-150 even in high ambient temps.

So what would you recommend to rebuild the one that just came out ?
it’s has upgraded GPZ clutches only but not sure if it had started slipping at about 900 whp before it came out .
The E drum only ?
Does that include the clutches ?
install price if I drop it off ?


The one
 
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just swapped out my original 10r80 for one built by LPF
its their “stage “ 2 - has extra steels in E drum but not sure what else . I will see how it holds at 1100 with my Gen 5 whipple /10 rib set-goal is 1100 -1200 whp .

I also have another one similarly built by scott @richardson transmissions as back up .
He just sent me 3 of his thermal delete valves he says will help keep temps at 125-150 even in high ambient temps.

So what would you recommend to rebuild the one that just came out ?
it’s has upgraded GPZ clutches only but not sure if it had started slipping at about 900 whp before it came out .
The E drum only ?
Does that include the clutches ?
install price if I drop it off ?


The one
the drum would be a good upgrade, assuming all other clutches are still in good shape.

for temps, the trans likes some heat but not too much, we try to start our runs around 140 degrees, if the trans is too cool, it doesn't shift well, same thing on the other side, too much heat kills the trans ,

we do not currently have bypass installed, but we always cool the engine / trans between runs

we get 850 on the basic rebuild assuming no damaged components. plus whatever parts you decide to throw in it
 

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Terry, what’s the labor cost to install all the drums and clutches?

edit: I see you said $850 for a basic plus parts
 
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correct
 

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Terry,

Do you have a Preferred freight company for shipping to finish line and back?
 

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Terry,

Do you have a Preferred freight company for shipping to finish line and back?
brian has some really good rates setup for freight if you can get it on a pallet.

513-831-9999, tt kevin the service writer and they can get it setup.
 

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Terry, you mentioned you do not have the bypass but cool the car to 140. Previous trans had the bypass and kept it cool. I'd see about 45 degrees over ambient. Which was about 130 or less while cruising, colder days it would be near 100. I am wondering if this is to cold, and could have caused issues for me. Is to cold a problem with the clutches?
 
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beefcake

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Terry, you mentioned you do not have the bypass but cool the car to 140. Previous trans had the bypass and kept it cool. I'd see about 45 degrees over ambient. Which was about 130 or less while cruising, colder days it would be near 100. I am wondering if this is to cold, and could have caused issues for me. Is to cold a problem with the clutches?
It’s hard to know 100% but I do know these transmissions like some heat in them to shift properly

everything is designed to be operated at a certain temperature, you have to remember that sometimes too cold is too cold

Same thing with engine temperature, we always cool the engine down but before I start a run I like the car to be at least 170° so it burns fuel properly
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