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1000hp , Whipple 2.9, whats needed?

Angrey

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I just want to see how much I can make on the gen 3 and 5.2 predator rpg motor. So I won’t have to wait for the whipple 3.8 to come out lol.
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I know everyone has a budget, but if you're going all that way and paying all that money, just spend few hundred extra and get some billet I beams.

What you're buying is this:

If you EVER want to grow bigger, it'll cost you THOUSANDS to do it safely vs. if you decide not to go bigger, you've spent a few hundred (but you've also got some additional safety and peace of mind)
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BDMACH1

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My Gen2 Whipple/132mm throttlebody made 840rwhp on Finishline Performance's dyno. with a 3.75/20%(10rib) lower. In that form the car was trapping 144 m.p.h.

The following winter I upgraded to a Gen3 blower, with a 152mm throttlebody. I never re-dynoed the car, but the car picked up a solid 6 m.p.h. in the quarter mile. This was done on a stock gen 2 motor with billet OPG's, and crank sprocket. Car had Fore Innovations fuel system with ID1300's and full exhaust. I'm guessing the car was close to 1,000 rwhp. The cars race weight was 4,150lbs.
 

rio16

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I'm going to run 1300's which will be plenty up to nearly 1100 wheel (on E-85 with a gen 5 whipple). I personally wouldn't go 1700's because although there's room to grow, anything past the 1300's is where it gets pretty finicky and other problems (from what I've read). basically, bigger isn't ALWAYS better and injectors is one of those areas it's best to just run exactly what you need or slightly more.

Pully is your choice. I opted for a 10 rib because I don't like the idea of overdriving. 1) There's already enough concern around the mass at the crank (i'm not double keyed, one of the few upgrades I wish I'd done). 2) Overdriving overdrives everything else, it's just more wear and tear on your alternator, A/C, etc.

I'm chose to go 10 rib and little blower pulley rather than overdrive and moderate blower pulley. Not saying overdrive can't or doesn't work, I just preferred to improve belt grip and pulley down further than deal with more harmonic/mass issues and overdriving the other accessories. Not a huge deal, just my personal take on it. Not saying it won't work just fine with the OD and a pulley.

To give you some perspective, a GT350 just made 950 wheel with a Gen5 and OD on a 3.5" pulley. The equivalent ratios for me would be the stock size balancer and roughly a 3" pulley. I'm gonna pulley down to a 2.75" which should get me into 4 digits. (I have 5.2L, 2" primary longtubes and a 150 mm TB). If not, I'll just tap out and take what it makes. If I ever get really greedy I might overdrive later


I see, i did reach out to Lund and my tuner said Id need 1700. And I thought I can get away with the 1300s. And I do have the 10 rib with 3.25" pulley with Stock diameter ATI. I also have the Gen 3 2.9 whipple. Only new think is a new built 5.2 predator motor from RPG and Frankensteined heads with port.
 

rio16

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I know everyone has a budget, but if you're going all that way and paying all that money, just spend few hundred extra and get some billet I beams.

What you're buying is this:

If you EVER want to grow bigger, it'll cost you THOUSANDS to do it safely vs. if you decide not to go bigger, you've spent a few hundred (but you've also got some additional safety and peace of mind)

Ok Ill ask my builder to see if he can add those in. Thanks.
 

rio16

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My Gen2 Whipple/132mm throttlebody made 840rwhp on Finishline Performance's dyno. with a 3.75/20%(10rib) lower. In that form the car was trapping 144 m.p.h.

The following winter I upgraded to a Gen3 blower, with a 152mm throttlebody. I never re-dynoed the car, but the car picked up a solid 6 m.p.h. in the quarter mile. This was done on a stock gen 2 motor with billet OPG's, and crank sprocket. Car had Fore Innovations fuel system with ID1300's and full exhaust. I'm guessing the car was close to 1,000 rwhp. The cars race weight was 4,150lbs.

Wow thats impressive Bob. My coyote motor took a dump, Lifted both head gaskets and burnt the top of the block.
 

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BDMACH1

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Wow thats impressive Bob. My coyote motor took a dump, Lifted both head gaskets and burnt the top of the block.
Thanks @rio16

Was thinking about when it trapped that mph, I did throw the 3.625 upper on it, so I wasn't exactly accurate in my post. Everything the same, the car picked up a solid 4mph. I pulled the 3.75 off and put the 3.625 on and it went 150. I ultimately pushed a head gasket as well. I haven't even pulled that motor apart yet to see exactly what it needs. I ended up putting something else together, and then ended up trading the Whipple setup for a new Hellion sleeper kit and some other goodies.
 

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Wow thats impressive Bob. My coyote motor took a dump, Lifted both head gaskets and burnt the top of the block.
Well, if you're getting a gen II 5.2 block then you'll be getting the new/old 12mm head studs which are obviously more capacity but also deeper in the block. Should help with holding lift down. Downside is the ARP head bolts are friggin' $370.
 

olaosunt

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I'm going to run 1300's which will be plenty up to nearly 1100 wheel (on E-85 with a gen 5 whipple). I personally wouldn't go 1700's because although there's room to grow, anything past the 1300's is where it gets pretty finicky and other problems (from what I've read). basically, bigger isn't ALWAYS better and injectors is one of those areas it's best to just run exactly what you need or slightly more.

Pully is your choice. I opted for a 10 rib because I don't like the idea of overdriving. 1) There's already enough concern around the mass at the crank (i'm not double keyed, one of the few upgrades I wish I'd done). 2) Overdriving overdrives everything else, it's just more wear and tear on your alternator, A/C, etc.

I'm chose to go 10 rib and little blower pulley rather than overdrive and moderate blower pulley. Not saying overdrive can't or doesn't work, I just preferred to improve belt grip and pulley down further than deal with more harmonic/mass issues and overdriving the other accessories. Not a huge deal, just my personal take on it. Not saying it won't work just fine with the OD and a pulley.

To give you some perspective, a GT350 just made 950 wheel with a Gen5 and OD on a 3.5" pulley. The equivalent ratios for me would be the stock size balancer and roughly a 3" pulley. I'm gonna pulley down to a 2.75" which should get me into 4 digits. (I have 5.2L, 2" primary longtubes and a 150 mm TB). If not, I'll just tap out and take what it makes. If I ever get really greedy I might overdrive later
Nice ..
Is your car the GT 350 in your signature ?

My GT 350/Gen 3 whipple /cat deletes made less than 900 (17psi) with the 3 inch(grip tech ) six rib pulley and stock damper but lund thinks I may 10:1 compression pistons (compression test same all cylinders ).

I run a 2.85 six rib (also grip tech) pulley on my 18 GT /Gen 5 and I see 19 psi per the dyno log .

Made just over 900 whp(147 mph trap )with the stock exhaust . I still think my car is down on power for that pulley(compared to other cars but most have headers )
I have done 2 compression tests which were unequivocal. It was down slightly on cylinder #7 on first test but second test showed no difference between cylinders

I am not seeing any slip with the Grip tech pulley so I may also try a 2.75 before I swap in the new motor(5.2) with the 10 rib/OD .
That motor will have 1 7/8 long tunes and I will start off with a 3.375 ten rib pulley . Should move equivalent amount of air to the current 2.85 six pulley set up .
I expect I may see less boost with the headers and with new motor /bigger displacement it won’t be quite an apple to apple comparison but I am hoping for more trap/power than my current set up .

An advantage of the 10 rib is I can pulley down to a 3 inch 10 rib if needed which will move more air than the smallest 6 rib /2.75.
 

Angrey

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I see, i did reach out to Lund and my tuner said Id need 1700. And I thought I can get away with the 1300s. And I do have the 10 rib with 3.25" pulley with Stock diameter ATI. I also have the Gen 3 2.9 whipple. Only new think is a new built 5.2 predator motor from RPG and Frankensteined heads with port.
If you're tuner is saying you need 1700s go with that. Seems like an awful lot of injector but I'd defer to them.
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