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2015-17 Mustang GT Ford Performance Power Packs

Braski

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I'm shifting right at 7,100 rpm. When I go to the track in the fall I'll try to get my buddy to make a video with his GO PRO. I'll make sure the video includes heating up the Hoosiers, what launching at 5k looks like and a inside view of the tach all the way down the strip!:)
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arfabe16

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Ok I understand what your saying now. Take a look just one page back:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60467&page=292

The picture I posted has three images. The first is of a bone stock 5.0 with the engine cover on. The fitting that is circled in the RED circle is the one you need to swap out for the Doorman 800-124.

Here's a video on how to disconnect common fuel line fittings. https://www.google.com/search?q=How+to+Disconnect+Common+Fuel+Line+Fittings&oq=how+to+discon&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j69i57j69i61l2j69i60.1839j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=1

One end of the clip is flat. On the opposite side of the connector are two fingers with hooks on their inner edges. Pry them apart and then push them down into the connector.

Autozone MAY have a simple tool for that, but a thin needle nosed pliers works. You can disconnect the vacuum hose first then, rotate the connector until you can see the bottom with the two clips. It looks something like this on it's bottom side:

41920976975_f1d7af46c7.jpg
Ok I'm gonna go for it. I bought the damn Doorman connector. Please tell me if I have things right. Remember, the PP2 is already installed and the hose is rubbing against the cover.

So, do I just have to disconnect the current fitting, slide the existing hose off the current fitting, install the new connector onto the intake tube, and slide the existing off onto the new connector?

Or, do I still need to cut the existing hose and replace it with new hose?
 

TheLion

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Ok I'm gonna go for it. I bought the damn Doorman connector. Please tell me if I have things right. Remember, the PP2 is already installed and the hose is rubbing against the cover.

So, do I just have to disconnect the current fitting, slide the existing hose off the current fitting, install the new connector onto the intake tube, and slide the existing off onto the new connector?

Or, do I still need to cut the existing hose and replace it with new hose?
Just pull it off the factory fitting and slide the tubing onto the new doorman fitting, easy as pie. However if your very unlucky like me, you'll have to trim your engine cover a bit even WITH the doorman 800-124 fitting.

Maybe I'm the first to have to do that? But it's a very small amount on mine and it looks nice. I just used an exacto knife and shaped the notch to have a 2 mm gap all the way around the connector knee. It actually looks factory in my opinion as it's more of a semi-circle rather than some odd shaped cutout .

BTW I do not like the Pirellie PZero's. Zero must stand for the expected traction you get from them....no joke my Pilot Sport AS3+'s blow the PZero's away in every department except ride comfort (the PZero's are nice and cushy where the AS3's can be a bit harsh over rough pavement) and those were all seasons with almost no tread left! I just swapped them back on finally (the Zero's are brand new, dealer replaced them before I bought the car, so I figured I'd burn em up this summer) as I've been running my AS3+'s and RTR wheels I kept from my EB since winter. No wonder you can't launch the stock setup....between the IRS / diff movement and tires I'll bet a Toyota Corolla could launch better :doh: Ford dropped the ball on that one!

Still loving the Power Pack 2 as well. I could not be more pleased with how well rounded the entire package is. From throttle response to the very accessible and usable power band...it's amazing at how much the little 5.0 can deliver when it's not purposefully held back by bean counter decisions. I have a feeling that the factory tuning and how much power was left on the table had nothing to do with what the project engineers could deliver, but rather what the project leads (more business oriented) thought would sell the most and it's sad to day they were right. Ford knows what sells and even though the Mustang in it's factory form (other than the GT350 for Ford GT which are awesome performers even bone stock) it's better as a grand tourer than a true performance car, it doesn't take much to bring out the foundation that is performance bred but layered under touring comforts for the masses. I consider myself an auto enthusiast bar none and while I can appreciate the car as is from the factory, I know what I wanted, what the GT could deliver and how to get what I wanted from it.

For those of us wanting that performance built into and buried within the stock Mustang Grand Touring, thankfully we have some legitimate auto enthusiasts at Ford Performance that share our desire for that knife edge performance car! It's not just about power at any expense. In any car it's no fun to be fixing it all the time or to sacrifice so much drive ability it's miserable to drive, it just isn't and some of us cannot outright afford to replace engines just for the sake of a few tenths of a second and the inflation of one's own ego either. Why pay premium price when you an get it on sale? In my opinion, real performance tuning is about squeezing out as much performance as humanly possible WITHOUT sacrificing reliability or the majority of service life and still falling within your cost targets. It's all a balancing act that is greater than the sum of any particular aspect itself.

If I had purchased an SS or RT Scat pack I would never consider tuning the engine, it would be bolt on's or bust for those two because there are no warrantied factory engine calibrations offered by either Dodge or Chevy (granted they also give you more raw performance from the factory so there's less need anyhow). Are there people running after market calibrations without issues for tens of thousands of miles? Yes, but there are also a lot of people who have engine damage or even factory defects un-related to the modification that they ended up footing the bill for because of a voided warranty...what does it matter if it was or wasn't the calibration that caused the issue in the first place if your paying for it out of pocket? Broken is broken and money out of your pocket is money out of your pocket! In the end the result is the same, it just sucks big time and I think there are a VERY small percentage of forum members for whom it's even worth the risk of the costs.

Back when I had my Ecoboost, I went with an after market setup originally, but I was constantly worrying about weather or not I damaged something every time I drove it hard even though I managed not to. Every little noise or tick or odor was worrisome that something was going wrong. I even had an issue with detonation that cracked a spark plug insulator that thankfully didn't fall into the combustion chamber and cause damage, but I had thought I just threw a rod when it happened in my Ecoboost.

After that I "downgraded" to the Ford Performance Power pack for Ecoboost Mustangs and while it made less power at the top end, it was just better tuned (drive ability) overall and the best part is that I wasn't constantly worrying about my car. I could just drive it and enjoy it (ok, well I wanted more power, but I felt that's all the EB could offer safely without going to a big turbo and built bottom end). This time around with the GT for me it was Ford Performance or bust. Reliability in my mind trumps all else and that's my advice to you. If you want more power than the Ford Performance Power Packs can deliver, I think their warrantied (albeit much more limited warranty) super charger kit is your best bet or step up to a higher tier car (assuming you have the coin) or a competitors offering. There's the Hell Cat, Demon, LT4 SS (super charged), GT350 and the up and coming GT500 all of which offer BIG power in with factory reliability or Ford Performance built crate engines.

I think the after market calibration in my opinion are better reserved more for non daily drivers, cars you can afford to break and don't need to use as practical transportation and it seems wise if your going to FI other than Ford Performance offerings, to go with a built bottom end for reliability in which case failures are far less common. If you can make it strong enough, you can afford some minor tuning mistakes without damage, but pushing the stock bottom end to far in most factory engines is much easier to do because they balance cost vs. performance. Usually factory designs are just right for the application with a little extra head room for "next year's model" that makes 10 or 20 hp more but nothing crazy.

While my GT isn't my primary transportation (believe it or not I drive a 2012 Prius C to work 3-4 days a week, great little car that just scoots along and gets about 50 mpg on average), it is my second vehicle and I drive on Fridays and on weekends or on road trips. Even further I"m still paying on it like the majority of Mustang owners, so I'd rather not have to shell out thousands of dollars for a new engine before or even after it's paid off! That's NOT fun and defeats the purpose of owning the car in the first place. Sacrificing reliability for bragging rights or ego is just plain stupid in my opinion. I'll get off my soap box now, I promise.
 
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Humphammer

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PP2 install

Not a lot I can add that hasn't been covered. One thing that I was very surprised at was the increased MPG. I drove a route that I have driven many times and have used to check MPG. Most of it is on the interstate and it's just a little over 90 miles round trip. With the cruise set at 72 mph I got 28.7 mpg. I have never gotten more than 25.4 mpg at the same speed on this trip before so I can safely say that if you keep your foot out of it you should see a pretty good bump in fuel economy.

One thing that is puzzling.....is there any reason that Ford has a plastic plate right in front of the snorkel other than cosmetic purposes. Seems like if you removed it you would get better air flow into the intake. Overall I'm very happy. There seems to be a pretty good bump in torque in all three settings and to me it most noticeable in the 1,800 to 3,500 rpm range. I personally can not tell it is any louder until you hit the 4,000 rpm range and then you get a nice moan from the CAI. Definitely wakes the car up and definitely worth the money spent IMO.

I am factory with the exception of an H pipe. I am seriously considering the Ford Performance touring axle back. I don't want it too loud and I detest drone but a little more rumble on acceleration would be nice as well. Anyone familiar with that set-up? Thanks to everyone that has posted in this thread. I have found most to be spot on and the tips that many have posted have been very helpful.
 

arfabe16

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Are any of you driving autos noticing some high revving when you take your foot off the pedal in Sport mode? My car did it when it had the stock calibration, but it's even more noticeable after installing PP2.

Is this normal (i.e., engine braking) or should I be concerned? FYI the car doesn't seem to do this in either Normal or Wet/Snow mode.
 

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fewt

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This is what puts me on the fence with this. Some people say that there is no change in driving style but others say that you HAVE to do no lift shift.
I've had PP2 installed for over a year now, and I can count on one hand the number of times I've used the no lift shift feature. It's not necessary.
 

TheLion

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I've had PP2 installed for over a year now, and I can count on one hand the number of times I've used the no lift shift feature. It's not necessary.
For some of us however, it will require a driver mod to avoid NLS accidentally engaging. Without realizing I've developed a habbit of starting to pre-load the clutch right before a shift while my foot is still on the throttle and that engages NSL because you have throttle and clutch simultaneously.

If you avoid that it should never engage. I'm not sure if shift RPM has any bearing on NLS, I think it's all based on clutch and throttle, but since I'm not really a drag racer I'm not that interested in it and I don't think most people are. But hey it doesn't hurt to have it as long as it doesn't interfere with how I want to use the car.
 

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I'm shifting right at 7,100 rpm. When I go to the track in the fall I'll try to get my buddy to make a video with his GO PRO. I'll make sure the video includes heating up the Hoosiers, what launching at 5k looks like and a inside view of the tach all the way down the strip!:)
Thanks, that would be great. I have been contemplating putting a piece of sticky note paper on the cover to the tack so I can tell right where the rev limit is lol. The factory tack goes into a "hashed" area past 6,800 so it's very hard to gauge how far you are from the new rev limit. I just know it's about two tack need widths past ;-).
 
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Freedom

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Are any of you driving autos noticing some high revving when you take your foot off the pedal in Sport mode? My car did it when it had the stock calibration, but it's even more noticeable after installing PP2.

Is this normal (i.e., engine braking) or should I be concerned? FYI the car doesn't seem to do this in either Normal or Wet/Snow mode.
Normal, sport mode holds gear and revs longer, rev matches, and engine brakes.
 

k4show

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Has anybody been able to get the FRPP oil separator to fit with the PP2?
 

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2morrow

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mc68386

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I've had PP2 installed for over a year now, and I can count on one hand the number of times I've used the no lift shift feature. It's not necessary.
I have auto w/ PP2, and don't notice this issue.
How recently did you install the PP2? There was a rev hang issue with the tune, that they fixed with a software revision early last year.
 

arfabe16

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fewt

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Has anybody been able to get the FRPP oil separator to fit with the PP2?

Yep, I have it. The dealership was able to install it without having to cut the cover.
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