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Tuned EB Brief Misfires

ronemca

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* * EDIT 181007 * *
This thread rambles a bit. Initially I thought I had one problem with 2 or 3 different manifestations, but in the end I had two different issues that were solved with two completely different solutions. So - if you're interested in the more gnarly problem (which was WMI-related) - you should skip lightly over the first posts and pick it up at post #67.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Swapped in ACCEL coil packs & NGK's about 14 months ago. Car's been running fine with these parts for over a year. Tune file was installed prior to that, and has been rock solid.

The WMI system went on about 5 months ago and has been working perfectly.

About 30 days ago, I installed a UPR SCCC. At about the same time, the following issue appeared:

When the car's been sitting for a couple of hours or more and I start it up, it coughs a couple of times while idling. It actually idles smoothly in terms of RPM, but will suddenly make a single, dull thwop like hitting a rug with a stick. And if I sit there for another minute or so it will do that again. Once I begin to move gently, it will make that same noise about four more times at very low RPM over the course of just a few hundred feet of driving...then it will smooth right out. And from that point onward it runs strong & solid under all conditions until the next time I shut it off for awhile.

BUT...

If I pull away immediately after start-up, the car will hiccup & cough fairly dramatically for a few hundred feet, then smooth right out like nothing's wrong. This is at modest load - no heavy accel and very low speed.

So I swapped in the OE coils (which have very low mileage, btw). No difference.

The next day I pulled the Iridium's. They were black, so I changed them (carefully gapped to .028" - same as set #1 - as directed by tuner) No difference.

The next day I re-gapped NGK set #1 and re-installed them. No difference.

Today I plan to re-install the OE plugs.

Meanwhile, I'm wondering about that CC. What stumps me is that the problem is so short-lived. If there is a vacuum leak...how would it "heal itself" after just a few minutes of running?? And then return after the motor has cooled down a bit??

The other thing I'm wondering about is carbon tracking on plugs and/or coil boots. I plan to replace the boots (because it's easy & cheap) but I find it hard to believe that there could be carbon tracking on two sets of plugs.

FYI - a Ford scan tool has revealed two misfires on 2 cylinders during a 3-minute idle session (no movement of car)

The only thing that's changed in months & months is the installation of the CC -- and I acknowledge that the most recent or only change is typically the culprit in cases like this -- but I would like to understand the mechanics involved before blundering on too much farther.

I have very carefully examined the various vac hoses, IC piping, clamps, air filter housing etc. etc.. And I've pumped hundreds & hundreds of liters of 94OC fuel thru the car over the past year+. The car has < 20K km's on it, so I've discounted a dirty fuel filter as well as various other age-related possibilities. And the CC piping and the can itself appear fine. The fittings and the seal seem okay to the naked eye. It has been catching watery oil at about half a teaspoon/10 days since I installed it (and I assume the watery nature of the collection is a function of the "W" in the WMI injection)
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Brian V

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What oil are you running in the engine ?
What 1 way valve did upr send you with the CC ?
 
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ronemca

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I run 5W30 Liqui-Moly.

From day one I was suspicious of the genuine-ness of the CC, because - while it did come from a reputable seller - it came without packaging, instructions, decals and branding. (So I can't answer your question) But I assumed the 1-way valve was inside the CC(?)
 

Brian V

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I run 5W30 Liqui-Moly.

From day one I was suspicious of the genuine-ness of the CC, because - while it did come from a reputable seller - it came without packaging, instructions, decals and branding. (So I can't answer your question) But I assumed the 1-way valve was inside the CC(?)
There should be a check valve on the intake side line into the CC .
 

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ronemca

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'Just came back inside after re-installing factory plugs. I also had a really good look at the two CC hoses (one on the oily/rear side & one on the manifold/front side) There is absolutely no inline valve, bulge or fitting of any kind. I did re-route the front hose to ease a slight kink beneath the TB, but a short idle test and subsequent test drive reveals no change whatsoever. :frusty:

I've ordered a new OE PCV hose, and as soon as I get it I'll pull the CC.
 
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ronemca

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Trying to clarify this. You're right - apparently there is supposed to be a check valve in the dirty side of the system, and it's supposed to have an arrow and "UPR" stamped on it. I definitely do NOT have a check valve in the hose, but maybe it's supposed to be integrated into the billet nipple on the can(?) If so, then I don't have one, because I don't have a billet fitting on either side of my can...nor are there any arrows...or "UPR" stamps.
 

Brian V

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Well that would be easy . You 'll need to order 1 . I am thinking there is a higher vaccum check valve out for your application .
 

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ronemca

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Well...I purchased the CC brand new from an online retailer -- and there was no ambiguity as to the intended application -- so if indeed it should have a check valve...I'd think it should have come with it in the first place. (or there should have been a 'you-must-also-order-this' pop-up or something)

I will see what Mr. UPR says before I make any guesses or assumptions.

But, if indeed there should be a check valve on the dirty side of the system but it is missing...what is therefore happening? Could this scenario create the issue I am experiencing?

All this aside...

Why does the issue only show up for 90 seconds after starting, and then evaporate completely?? That seems very odd to me.
 

Brian V

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May have to do with vacuum and crankcase pressures ..

Any way this has been fun helping you troubleshoot and ahh ..Next .
 

Elgyn

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When the car's been sitting for a couple of hours or more and I start it up, it coughs a couple of times while idling. It actually idles smoothly in terms of RPM, but will suddenly make a single, dull thwop like hitting a rug with a stick. And if I sit there for another minute or so it will do that again. Once I begin to move gently, it will make that same noise about four more times at very low RPM over the course of just a few hundred feet of driving...then it will smooth right out. And from that point onward it runs strong & solid under all conditions until the next time I shut it off for awhile.

Mine does the same thing. Was told not to worry cause that the Roush tune doesit. It's just sorting things out while it's warming up.



I don't have any of the other symptoms you describe
 
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ronemca

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Thank you, Brian.
 

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I would talk to your tuner and send them a log of the symptoms. They should be able to help you.
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