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Aus-MustangGT

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I’m trying..:ninja:
I'm glad to see that someone is giving this a shot. Great work mate, I hope you create a monster and put some companies to shame :cheers:
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Burkey

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I'm glad to see that someone is giving this a shot. Great work mate, I hope you create a monster and put some companies to shame :cheers:
Thank you sir. I’m hoping it all works out the way it should ;)
 

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This is fascinating, thanks for sharing a whole new world of DIY mods.
 

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Hope it goes well !!! :D
Great read and info so far !!! :amen:
 

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Good Luck with it Burkey, it sounds like you really know what your talking about. I'll be watching with interest.

I decided that DIY mod was WAAAY outa my league when I watched the vid of whatshisname from PJ PonyParts install the Roush Supercharger. I figured it would take me a year of weekends. In the interim I'm getting quotes to install the Roush/Ford performance Stage 1. I can import for around A$10k delivered. Any suggestions for the best team to install in Sydney?
 

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Tunehouse have a decent reputation for those yhings as far as i am aware.


Agree 100% at how interesting and amazing the efforts of OP are. When you can sit there and type "so i made up a simple bracket to mount it" etc i sit in awe. I'm fairly mechanical but something like that does not come easy to me or something i'd probably manage myself. Full respect to you OP.
 
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Burkey

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Good Luck with it Burkey, it sounds like you really know what your talking about. I'll be watching with interest.

I decided that DIY mod was WAAAY outa my league when I watched the vid of whatshisname from PJ PonyParts install the Roush Supercharger. I figured it would take me a year of weekends. In the interim I'm getting quotes to install the Roush/Ford performance Stage 1. I can import for around A$10k delivered. Any suggestions for the best team to install in Sydney?
PM coming your way. :thumbsup:
 
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Burkey

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Tunehouse have a decent reputation for those yhings as far as i am aware.


Agree 100% at how interesting and amazing the efforts of OP are. When you can sit there and type "so i made up a simple bracket to mount it" etc i sit in awe. I'm fairly mechanical but something like that does not come easy to me or something i'd probably manage myself. Full respect to you OP.
Honestly, it isn’t THAT complex. Yeah, ok, I have a reasonable degree of mechanical aptitude, but I’m not a mechanic. The right tools, plenty of study and a basic grasp of “how shit works” will stand a person in good stead.
Reading the instructions back to front and inside out also helps. :cheers:
 
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Burkey

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I assembled the pulleys, billet tensioners and evap bracket before I started on any of it.
The basic idea was to reduce the number of bits floating around, but also to make for a smoother install on the big day. The electrical tape is just to stop the bolts falling out of their holes. What I don’t want to be doing on the install day/s is staring at the instructions like a dickhead, shifting thorough bolt bags, trying to find the right bits.
The added bonus of course is that you’re verifying that EVERYTHING is there.
Low temp thermostat supplied by Whipple, cos cooler engines make more power (sort of, it’s complex).
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Burkey

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Speaking of heat....
In theory, the heat exchanger/intercooler/reservoir will hold something in the order of 15 litres of fluid. Whipple recommend reducing the coolant/distilled water mix in both the engines cooling system and the HE/IC system to around 50/50 or even 70/30 (climate depending).
The basic principle is that heat is rejected to water better than it is to coolant (we know this from science class).
To top that off, they suggest 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter in the HE and 2 bottles in the engines cooling system. I’ve used this stuff before, it works. The theory is that it reduces the oxygen molecule size (or some crap), thereby allowing the water to make better contact with the radiator. Heat rejects faster to fluid than air, ergo, science and stuff. :headbonk:
I’ll likely shoot for somewhere around 50/50 cos damn our RHD oil-coolers are crap.
I’m sticking with the factory coolant for the exact same reason. Mixing coolants (wrong types) isn’t on my list of things to do. :eyebulge:
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Burkey

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I’ll be starting out with a 3.75”pulley and see where it takes us. I might be able to step down to 3.625” for a little extra boost but until we get this dialled in, it’s time to play it safe.
On e85 a 3.500” (or smaller) wouldn’t be a problem. I’ve seen at least one local tuner drop to a 3.500” pulley on our 98.
That’s fine, but if you need to start pulling ignition timing to make it work it just doesn’t make sense to me. I’ll stick with the methods of my tuner thanks. Others will disagree of course. That’s how tuning works.
132mm TB thrown in just for shits and gigs. Beer for scale and drinking.
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Burkey

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see now this is interesting. As much as seeing some huge hp cars come from tuners its much better to see a backyard build up like this.

Just dont blow it up :)
Cheers mate. The tune will safe enough, I guess what we can’t predict is the ability of the stock bottom-end to deal with it and a whole raft of other things that “could” go wrong. Bigger fuel pump and injectors is only one part of the much larger equation.
As always, buyer beware. :thumbsup:
 

Flying Fiz

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Hey Burkey

Are you also going to upgrade the drive shafts? I understand for the Roush and Harrop stage 1 SC's its not required, but I assume your going well past that in HP gains.
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