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How common are bent endlinks?

Coyote Red

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I have the BMR 005 & yesterday received 006 4pt. brace, guess this upgrade will be needed next?I am still not convinced trading my 2014 Cyclone was an upgrade as it's suspension was almost finished, these "upgrades" continue to rear their "ugly' HEADS.
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wildcatgoal

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I had Cortex end links up front prior to my Steeda ones for about 1 minute. They used a separate nut and washer. The washer bent into the mount hole on the sway bar as I was trying to torque it down. Took them right off. Must be my bad luck again! Yep, a washer will certainly not cause as much marring to the bar, but, let's be honest, the bar will get marred up regardless. A spray of some rust inhibiter, effectively solved. Personally, I'm not concerned about some surface rust on my sway bars (plenty strong thanks to no coined ends). The different materials (steel vs aluminum) and tapered vs not tapered... agreed, not huge, other than the convenience of a full length hex on the Steeda units to make using wrenches to adjust and lock with the wheel still on more flexible and easier for some (I'm sure you could do it with a couple of BBQ skewers and a bottle cap, but not this guy). And the corrosion resistance of aluminum on a component that will get a bit marred when a wrench is used on it and subsequently rust just like a tie rod does after it's first adjusted by your local alignment shop's quality Craftsman tools. And, since we are splitting positrons at this point, one of the two options is going to be lighter than the other. :)

The factory uses flange nuts with nylock, worth a mention.
 

jbailer

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[MENTION=21494]wildcatgoal[/MENTION] very well said!
 

Sherrodmustang

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More than bent, broke endlink today.

I am running 38mm Steeda front away bar and Steeda rear sway bar.

So order places for new adjustable Steeda endlinks.
20180618_170354.jpg
 

Niz55

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If you are lowered too much than they will bent.
 

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Niz55

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Moof ones from rockauto are extremely strong and high quality. I think around $25 each.
 

rum_punch_ruby

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I have a pair of Steeda adjustable rear end links I purchased and will not be using if anyone is in the market for a pair. I'd like to not eat the ridiculous 20% restocking fee
 

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Racerx009

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^ There ya go.

People bend them quite often. I deal with it just about every week.

We bent a set almost instantly on one of our PP cars - and this is why our adjustable end links were one of the very first parts we released for the S550 Mustangs, almost 2 years ago.

We released adjustable bar end-link well before any other company, and were the first to utilize a high-strength ball joint with a grease fitting. :cheers:
ELK012_1600.jpg
How do you know how to adjust the length ??
 

Norm Peterson

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Probably best to install adjustable endlinks with the car's weight fully on the wheels and the wheels on a level surface. I think ideally you'd want the hole in the bar end for the endlink stud to be at the same height above the ground as the center section of the bar. I say ideally because possible clearance issues might force something a little different. Install one endlink. Adjust the length of the other endlink so that you don't have to force the bar end up or down to get the last stud through its hole. This should give you close to zero preload in the bar.

Launch traction in an IRS car shouldn't be nearly as sensitive to stabilizer bar stiffnesses as it is in a stick axle car, so I wouldn't expect much benefit from intentionally preloading either or both of them.


Norm
 

Performance nut

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Niz55

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I had the Moog front installed on my car but I sold it as I am going with coilover and they come with endlinks.

They were awesome endlinks. The rear is not needed as the factory one is pretty good. It is shorter than front so I doesn't bend.
 

Niz55

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Adjustable links are not needed unless you have coilovers and wanting to corner balance.
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