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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

vnzbd

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I just wanted to get the opinions of those on here that have flashed there ACMs.

If you do so and run line level, do you think a dealer re-flash for an maintenance reason would convert it back to speaker level? I don't know if they would just flash a needed area or flash a generic "update" that covered it all.

I ask this because I have the base 6 speaker system so my system was set up speaker level. I installed and amp and ran it speaker level until OEM's programmer was available. I flashed with his programmer but my ACM did not take the flash. Reason unknown. I went ahead and converted my amp(JL XD series) from speaker to line level without checking the voltage out. Well it fried my amp. It wasn't to I got a new amp and did the install that I decided to check the voltage on the inputs and discovered that my ACM had not accepted the flash. I am afraid to try again to go to line level in case of a re-flash and another blown amp.
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HextallS550

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[MENTION=20499]mumbles[/MENTION] It's the internets man. Not a problem. I'm a pretty passionate person about testing and telling the people the truth.

Regarding the ACM we are going to test a Premium ACM and change the AB data and see what the frequency response actually is. A user on DIYMA purchased programming from OEM and when he tested the output found it was NOT flat. OEM said he didn't have the equipment to check this, which among other things he said/did pissed me off. How are you going to make claims and charge people good money and without testing?!
 
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vnzbd

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For what it is worth OEM was very easy to work with. No issues with his service and help. It was just unfortunate that his programmer did not work on my car. I did not really think about what blew up in my amp at the time, obviously the inputs. I certainly should have put some thought into it. I guess I was just disappointed. I feel bad because I pushed for and received a refund on something that was my own fault.
 

mustank

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I guess I never really looked through all the threads, but the OEM programmer has never been legitimately tested/verified??
 

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HextallS550

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[MENTION=24193]mustank[/MENTION] I don't know about the programmer. I was speaking about the deal where you send in your ACM or APIM. That programmer is slick though. I've seen them on n eBay for other vehicles, with enough money we could have that company in China make them lol
 

vnzbd

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No Escape for me.... Well Ford Escape anyway!
 

whodidntante

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Front Stage Replacements:
Mid-woofer and tweeter = JBL GX600C
Midrange = JBL GX302
Just what I was looking for, thanks. Did you use the included crossovers for the GX600Cs? If so, where did the installer mount those?
 

aehchi

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Any installer who tells you to replace the head unit without having a working knowledge of what's actually there will most likely have a reason to do so; profit margin or lack of experience.
I don't know who the top installer in Chicago is. I know a few really good ones but too many times person judged as the "top" installers are usually the guys getting notoriety and $$$ from putting equipment into one of the Bears or Cubs Mercedes.
I can build a competition level system with a factory HU for $1500-1750. That's using tried and proven true components from Helix, Hybrid Audio and JL Audio. Yes, it's used. But unless your OCD about warranties an amp that's been burned in or speakers that have been cared for will exhibit the law of electronics: if it's kept away from water and vibration and it doesn't fail in the first 90 days it will last as long as you typically will own that car. I have PPI Art Series amps that are older than people on this board and they are still as reliable as any of the surface mounted Chinese stuff. Of course they sound a lot better
But when you get down to it, the biggest problem, biggest issue in car audio today is a simple question... What are you listening to??
I listen to everything, and I do mean everything. Classical, jazz (not smooth jazz), electronica, dance, R&B, older hip hop, rock, 80’s synth pop, etc. You get the picture. I’m a professional musician – some things I have to listen to for my job and some for pleasure. When I am driving across country which I often do, I listen to talk radio (though I don’t need that to sound good, necessarily).

My original intent was to put in a dsp/amp unit (Audison 8.9 bit, Gladen 60.8 or Hertz V.8) and run those to JL audio JL Audio C5-653 in the front, some 2 ways in the back, and the sub in the trunk. However, and this I can’t stress enough, I did not want to cosmetically change the look of the vehicle or loose trunk space to a new sub box. I just wanted better sound. Nor did I want to change function in the head unit or steering controls. I also didn’t want to change the piped in engine sound which I am told is generated from the amp and not the head unit. I know that sounds crazy, but I didn’t want the car to look or function differently.

However, I know that a hum or buzz or any noise that wasn’t there before would drive me crazy. So, when more than one installer told me that I would likely get a low-level hum, that was a deal breaker for me. I googled it and found many people complaining about the “hum” from the Helix unit, though I looked again today and someone on a forum said that it was a certain batch of those units that had the problem.

I don’t want to pour another $2000 into this and not get an extraordinary result. I’m also willing to give up some wheel-well space to amps and such, but a lot of the guys I went to told me that I would have to build racks in the back – no one seemed to understand that the equipment was better heard and not seen. This is one of the reasons that I leaned towards the Audison, Gladen, and Hertz units – one unit, both DSP and Amp.

So, if you can offer in suggestions, I am absolutely willing to listen. And please, easy on the acronyms - not all of us know what some of these things are.
 

aehchi

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Just what I was looking for, thanks. Did you use the included crossovers for the GX600Cs? If so, where did the installer mount those?
I did not use the crossovers. I was yelled at for it on this forum, but when I asked directly what good putting crossovers on speakers when the factory amp already crosses-over the signal, crickets.

Right now, I am doing more research and asking more questions. I will say this - after living with it for a few days, I would say that the sound is MUCH brighter than the old speakers. This may not be for everyone.
 

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whodidntante

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I did not use the crossovers. I was yelled at for it on this forum, but when I asked directly what good putting crossovers on speakers when the factory amp already crosses-over the signal, crickets.

Right now, I am doing more research and asking more questions. I will say this - after living with it for a few days, I would say that the sound is MUCH brighter than the old speakers. This may not be for everyone.
Thanks. I would have gone without the crossovers as well if you did not answer.

Would you recommend I use the same speakers or would you try a different setup if you could turn back the clock? My OEM speakers seem unable to cope with the unimpressive power of the OEM amp, and I'm really missing out on highs. Everything sounds poorly defined, muddled and compressed, like a low bitrate MP3.

I installed Infinity Kappas in my old Cadillac and I thought there were a huge upgrade versus the OEM speakers.
 

Caballoballo

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Saludos, front doors speakers impedance written on the label are as follow, 6.5" 2 ohms 35 watts, 3.5" 2 ohms 25 watts, tweeters have a 3.8 dc resistance so they should be 4 ohms to keep close to a 2 ohms impedance and are wired in parallel with the midrange as noted previously.
 

ponie1992

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If anyone is curious, here is a pic of the factory wiring in the trunk of my base model. This is in the location where the Shaker sub would go. I didn't see a pic of this in this thread, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to post it.

20170402_093837_zpsuomy5fm0.jpg
 

aehchi

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Thanks. I would have gone without the crossovers as well if you did not answer.

Would you recommend I use the same speakers or would you try a different setup if you could turn back the clock? My OEM speakers seem unable to cope with the unimpressive power of the OEM amp, and I'm really missing out on highs. Everything sounds poorly defined, muddled and compressed, like a low bitrate MP3.

I installed Infinity Kappas in my old Cadillac and I thought there were a huge upgrade versus the OEM speakers.
Sorry it has taken me so long to respond. I have been away for about 6 weeks. You may have already gone forward with changes so this info may be old, but just in case, here is my update:

I do like the JBLs I used with one minor adjustment. After some research and talking to a few different install guys, I found out that the the tweeters in the Shaker system run at a different impedance than the mid-woofer and midrange (someone told me that he thought the tweeters ran directly from the head unit, but I have no proof of that). The tweeters are closer to 4 ohms, so if you buy a 2 ohm component system (2 way or 3 way) and install the 2 ohm tweeters, the system will be very bright.

So, after a few weeks and living with this, I decided to keep everything but changed out the tweeter with the OEMs and the sound is much more balanced and much cleaner (without the piercing highs)! So, to recap:

2 ohm after-market midwoofer
2 ohm after-market midrange
4 ohm OEM tweeter
 

Caballoballo

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Saludos, I went with Alpine Tr 2 way im the back, Cdt 6.5 midrange, Cdt Hd3 and Alpine 110tw. Also I was able to accommodate a Dayton Audio RS100P-4 4 (really 3.5 inches measured) as a center channel with little cutting.
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