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My audio install thread. Shaker complete overhaul.

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z06psi

z06psi

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Soldered all the wires. Heat shrink, Tesa taped, Tech shielded. Pics tomorrow.
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z06psi

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Cable #1 and the two wires are for the tweeters.

Cable #2 and the one wire is for the center channel

20180221_173749.jpg
 

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This is going to be a tough act to follow. Great job thus far, and thanks for the pics.
 

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Not going to lie, I'm a whore for nice wiring. Great work. Most people skip the details when it's going to be hidden behind panels.
 
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Not going to lie, I'm a whore for nice wiring. Great work. Most people skip the details when it's going to be hidden behind panels.
I actually tore the boost controller wiring back out of my car just to re-do one wire because I wasn't happy with it. :lol:
 

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This thread is great. I'm curious about how your amp rack connects to the car. I see the vertical pieces and the pins and whatnot, but I didn't see any pics of the top end of the vertical posts. Would you mind describing how it's connected to the underneath side of the parcel shelf? Did you drill holes and run bolts through into a threaded plug inside the square tubing?

I'm thinking I'm going to do an IB install with two 8" DLS subwoofers I have from another car replacing the stock rears, much like [MENTION=15347]ForTehNguyen[/MENTION] did, but I'm interested in whether I can create an amp rack similar to yours that will allow me to mount an amp between the two woofer magnets.

Thanks. :cheers:
 
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z06psi

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This thread is great. I'm curious about how your amp rack connects to the car. I see the vertical pieces and the pins and whatnot, but I didn't see any pics of the top end of the vertical posts. Would you mind describing how it's connected to the underneath side of the parcel shelf? Did you drill holes and run bolts through into a threaded plug inside the square tubing?

I'm thinking I'm going to do an IB install with two 8" DLS subwoofers I have from another car replacing the stock rears, much like [MENTION=15347]ForTehNguyen[/MENTION] did, but I'm interested in whether I can create an amp rack similar to yours that will allow me to mount an amp between the two woofer magnets.

Thanks. :cheers:
The four stub outs that hang down are all welded to the car. I own a mig welder and it made the most sense to me. That would keep any vibrations or rattles to zero. :D
 
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Did the front stage today. The Morel's were pretty much a direct fit. There were a few small things that I had to deal with.

The 3" door speakers used the OEM rings. Just had to airsaw the connector off and drill three 5/64ths holes to mount the speakers to them. The 6.5s went in with zero mods with the rings that Crutchfield sent. Just had to cut some tabs off on the inside of the rings. The tweeters are surface mounted but I will change them to flush mount. I used the factory capacitor to be used as a bass blocker until I go full active with the DSP.

All and all everything went smoothly. Sound deadened the inside carcass of the door as much as I could as well as the door panel side. So right now I am running the entire Morel component set and the Infinity Perfect 300 in the dash on the factory amp/dsp.

Should be running all the wiring to the amps next weekend.


What I started with.
20180224_083609.jpg


Just missing the foam surround rings. They are in there now.
20180224_112643.jpg
 

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Great work as usual! Before you button everything back up, make sure you can roll your windows all the way down and aren't hitting speaker magnets...
 
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Great work as usual! Before you button everything back up, make sure you can roll your windows all the way down and aren't hitting speaker magnets...
;)

The Morels are actually smaller than the factory ones.
 

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20 years ago the center channel was the rage but we did not have the processing to do it. Now we do but if it hurts then I will just remove it and move on.
Actually we had the perfect processor to do it, but no one bought it and AudioControl killed it.
 

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The System 90 Model 11. It provided true center, not summed L+R or L-R. It actually took a stereo image from both and then output an amplified signal for the C and a proper L/R signal to feed the EQ/XO/Amp for the front drivers. The same way HT systems process true 3.1 stereo. In these cars with the midrange mounted horribly wrong it would help to raise the stage. Time alignment will only take you so far before the limitations of factory driver placement show themselves.
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