The 80 bucks includes a 20 page installation guide for installing the manifold, not just cleaning up the rear of the manifold. It also includes a coolant hose, additional hardware to make the install clean, and an EVAP harness extension, so you don't need to cut and extend the wiring that is already on the vehicle. We've sold over 30 of these kits, and most of them have just been people ordering them online, and everyone who has commented back has given really great feedback on the clarity of the directions and cleanliness of the install.
The install guide is top notch and the extension definitely helps. However the Degas hose y'all include is one size too small and fits pretty shitty. I had to source a new one as even the clamp provided didn't fit over the hose after forcing it on the tank. The guide made the install a breeze, pictures were very clear and it was easy to follow. I wouldn't say it's worth $80 maybe 50 but that's just my opinion.
There is a complete gt350 intake setup on fb right now for 1000$ it looks brand new.
Well you can see that this article was written well before you guys offered this kit.. So no one knew what was in it. But idk why on earth you would have 20 pages of instructions when I'm sure I could print my list on maybe one and a half. But you evac extension was useful at least. I did like that part.
What article are you referring to? Do you have a link for the article?
Mikeiscoo2, nice write up. Sorry about the wrong adapter plate. I guess all good things are worth waiting for. ;)
This may help a little with the plumbing on the install. GT350 intake, throttle body, and an existing JLT CAI. Just finished up mine last Friday:
All vacuum connections at the rear of the manifold were left as shipped.
- I replaced the GT350 hose and end connector off the tee with a piece of 3/8" silicone vacuum line. The GT350 piece is pre-formed and was putting the clip-on connection at the JLT air intake tube in a bind. Removed the straight fitting from JLT intake tube and loosely placed in a vise to press on hose, then re-inserted into the intake tube. Hose clamped tee fitting end - was a loose coupling.
- Connected same as OEM manifold connection.
- Purchased a 6mm x 31mm long threaded stud from Ace Hardware along with a 6mm flange nut to use on the driver's side to hold down the purge valve. The GT350 factory hold down will now slide onto the exposed threads. A 6mm x 30mm flanged bolt will do for the passenger's side. The ones from the OEM manifold won't work - they're self-threading. The GT350 manifold has inserts with M6 x 1.0mm threads.
- Hose clamped tee fitting end that feeds the charge motion control valve diaphrams at the rear of the manifold - just to be sure.
- 1/2" hose from manifold port to 1/2" x 3/8" reducing elbow. 3/8" silicone vacuum line to existing power brake booster hard line.
If any of you have the Performance Pack, pay no attention to the dash vacuum gauge. It will show a drop of about 4" vacuum at idle. This is probably due to the different manifold/throttle body. The gauge is electronic, and I believe it is being "fooled" by the new setup. Check for leaks and use a separate vacuum gauge right off the manifold tap. This is what I get off the manifold at idle:
I have had no problems with surging, hesitation, or tip-in. Put 600 miles on it since the install in traffic, on the freeway, and "down in Mexico". I'm running a JLT CAI with a 4" to 4" Vibrant 2718 silicone coupler to the GT350 TB. Tune is from Lund.
Can't stress enough about proper vacuum and checking for leaks. If that's what's actually happening... I don't think that it could ever be entirely tuned out.
Your mileage may vary. Void where prohibited by law.
That is all...
