Need help determining which direction to go.

As of approximately a week ago, I finished installing all of the parts currently listed in my signature. All of the suspension bits were upgraded simultaneously, along with the wheel spacers and upgrade to the Michelin PSS tires - it handles like a completely different car now.

Despite having the performance pack, there was always too much brake dive and body roll with the stock suspension. Also, the stock Pirellis were completely worthless in first and second gear and were reduced to 0% tread in less than 14,000 miles. Now, the car handles like it's on rails and actually feels like a sports car, and I can finally go WOT from a stop without simply roasting the tires. Wheel hop is essentially gone except when I'm accelerating into very tight low speed turns.

I'm kinda torn on what to do next. I'm going to avoid doing anything that would add power or create warranty problems until the warranty is up, and then I'm either going to supercharge it or try for an N/A build. I'm gonna start saving for that series of mods now since either way I go it will be expensive.

Question is, what's a realistic N/A power goal and what mods would be needed to achieve it safely? I'm trying to compare the $ per HP gain to a supercharger setup and just don't really know where to start.

Polish the nut behind the wheel.
Get some professional training on how to drive your toy.
Lots of HPDE events down near you.

I appreciate you taking the time to respond, but I am specifically asking about parts.

You pretty much hit the wall without blowing your warranty with tuning and forced induction.

Do you plan on tracking the car? The mod list would suggest so. If so, then brakes. Upgraded pads and a fluid swap (RBF 600).

The only other chassis/suspension stuff is Vertical Links and front subframe brace, CB006 if you go BMR.

raceredftw said:

I appreciate you taking the time to respond, but I am specifically asking about parts.

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Basically as soon a as you do anything to increase power you void the warranty. You could get away with a no time intake but that is about it.

Your plan to wait then supercharger is good. I think your correct; supercharger is more cost effective than high HP NA.
Maybe ride and/or drive a couple buddies and/or shop demo cars. See if you like 8000rpm 500hp NA or torque ~600 stage1 and ~700hp stage2 superchargers.

I like NA but Supercharger is more cost effective, like you said.

I think you'll be happy with any choice.

5.oh said:

Basically as soon a as you do anything to increase power you void the warranty. You could get away with a no time intake but that is about it.

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lol that's why I said in the OP that I'm gonna wait till the warranty is up to add power ;) Not trying to be rude, just pointing that out.

When the warranty is up I'm going to add power. I'm trying to decide between blower or staying N/A, so I'm trying to figure out how much power you can safely make N/A and what parts would be needed to achieve that. That way, once I know what the potential mod list and cost would be for an N/A build, I can compare it to the cost of a blower and the necessary supporting mods on that side.

raceredftw said:

lol that's why I said in the OP that I'm gonna wait till the warranty is up to add power ;) Not trying to be rude, just pointing that out.

When the warranty is up I'm going to add power. I'm trying to decide between blower or staying N/A, so I'm trying to figure out how much power you can safely make N/A and what parts would be needed to achieve that. That way, once I know what the potential mod list and cost would be for an N/A build, I can compare it to the cost of a blower and the necessary supporting mods on that side.

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Well since you have lots of time before you add the power, read through this: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49398

Then figure out the cost of the mods and the rwhp based on the responses. Hint, going NA will be much more expensive.

BmacIL said:

Do you plan on tracking the car? The mod list would suggest so. If so, then brakes. Upgraded pads and a fluid swap (RBF 600).

The only other chassis/suspension stuff is Vertical Links and front subframe brace, CB006 if you go BMR.

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I likely won't be tracking the car, though I get why the mod list would suggest so. Basically, this car is my daily, and I'll take it to the drag strip maybe 1-2 times a year. Primarily the build is designed to make tearing up winding backroads fun, and for handling power when launching from a stop (and then the obvious aesthetic considerations). Also, since I know I'll be adding power down the road, I figured it was smart to start beefing up the suspension first.

However, I had thought about brakes, purely from a "if you add horsepower, add stopping power" perspective. I looked into pads, but it didn't seem like there was a consensus as to what worked best with the PP brakes. I had some Hawk HPS pads on my Speed6 and they squealed and groaned like a mother, I'm trying to avoid that even if the pads do give me increased stopping power. I wasn't sure if new fluid would be worth it in a daily though? Seems like the benefit to new fluid is increased boiling resistance, which isn't something I think I'll run into since I won't be tracking the car. I've never experienced brake fade yet, and I've pushed the brakes pretty damn hard many times. I'm not sure how often people recommend changing brake fluid though.

10splaya22 said:

Well since you have lots of time before you add the power, read through this: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49398

Then figure out the cost of the mods and the rwhp based on the responses. Hint, going NA will be much more expensive.

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Dude that's perfect, thank you. And yeah, it looks like I'll probably be adding a supercharger. I just wanna test drive one first, I've never driven a supercharged car before. My last few cars have been turbo'd, and I just want to make sure the supercharger is closer in feel to an N/A car.

raceredftw said:

I likely won't be tracking the car, though I get why the mod list would suggest so. Basically, this car is my daily, and I'll take it to the drag strip maybe 1-2 times a year. Primarily the build is designed to make tearing up winding backroads fun, and for handling power when launching from a stop (and then the obvious aesthetic considerations). Also, since I know I'll be adding power down the road, I figured it was smart to start beefing up the suspension first.

However, I had thought about brakes, purely from a "if you add horsepower, add stopping power" perspective. I looked into pads, but it didn't seem like there was a consensus as to what worked best with the PP brakes. I had some Hawk HPS pads on my Speed6 and they squealed and groaned like a mother, I'm trying to avoid that even if the pads do give me increased stopping power. I wasn't sure if new fluid would be worth it in a daily though? Seems like the benefit to new fluid is increased boiling resistance, which isn't something I think I'll run into since I won't be tracking the car. I've never experienced brake fade yet, and I've pushed the brakes pretty damn hard many times. I'm not sure how often people recommend changing brake fluid though.

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If it's just back road and spirited street use then no real need to go more aggressive on pads. The brembo stock ones are solid. The fluid should be changed ~every 2-3 years or so.

Based on your use, I'd do vertical links and MGW or Barton Hybird (trans mount) shifter + BG Syncroshift II fluid (which now officially meets the Ford spec).

I just looked at the MGW shifter, that thing looks sexy. I think I may be making a purchase in a few minutes.

No ford performance packs?

SpaceGhost said:

No ford performance packs?

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In terms of $ per HP gained, the Ford performance packs aren't very good bargains. My understanding is that they leave quite a bit on the table compared to getting a custom tune, while costing more than a custom tune.