BMR Magneride Spring Install

bootlegger said:

How do these rates compare to the Ford Performance GT350 springs? I am looking for a little more aggressive rates.

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The front is basically the same as frpp but the rear on the frpp is a progressive around 600-900. I definitely go with the BMR springs. I had the frpp and rear is just way too soft.

I'm installing these this week! Just curious to know what other springs BMR offers that aren't the "handling" or the "drag" set. Can you really drop the car much lower with magneride?

how much will this throw off you camber? will you be able to maintain factory camber specs with these?

BigBoss5.0 said:

I'm installing these this week! Just curious to know what other springs BMR offers that aren't the "handling" or the "drag" set. Can you really drop the car much lower with magneride?

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You can but its going to mess with the Magnaride 'ecu' or more specifically the algorithms and therefore is not advisable.



Technically lowering the car with any spring is doing something the car/magnaride system isn't prepared for and as such will not be ideal- the 350/FP springs and their minimal drop will be the only exception. Still, not perfect.



With that said I wouldn't be surprised if there was a package/magnaride calibration coming down the pipeline sometime soon. ;)

Good stuff [MENTION=31408]Rodsaleen[/MENTION] !

For those curious about the ride heights - we have several offerings. We can pair up springs to cater to what you are after. Looks, increased handling, drag race etc.

Here are some additional BMR Equipped MR cars.

God that Crimson is stunning...

Im interested but do not want to make any performance of the car worse. I want it to be as good or better at everything it currently does. if thats possible. my concern is camber as im a mostly a straight line guy and -2.5 camber is not so good. stock seems to be at -1.5 so i would like to be able to keep that.

Angry50 said:

Im interested but do not want to make any performance of the car worse. I want it to be as good or better at everything it currently does. if thats possible. my concern is camber as im a mostly a straight line guy and -2.5 camber is not so good. stock seems to be at -1.5 so i would like to be able to keep that.

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It is. You will be able to get -1.5 deg with these springs for certain.

Rodsaleen said:

I finally finished installing my BMR Magneride lowering springs today. I’m very satisfied with the stance of the car. The fronts have been on there for five days and I just installed the rears today. On the fronts I discussed with Kelly my goals and I did the minimal drop front springs (SP089/SPH767). For those that watch Dave at CJPP video on lowering a Magneride car when he says you just have to tap the front spindle bolts to get them out......yea I’m calling BS . I had to break out Big Bertha to remove those bolts. I did some quick spirited driving taking corners and curve and it handles like it’s on rails and the ride quality is still great.

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How did the install go other than bringing in big bertha? Was it just as straight forward as the CJPP video?

Matte Black said:

You can but its going to mess with the Magnaride 'ecu' or more specifically the algorithms and therefore is not advisable.



Technically lowering the car with any spring is doing something the car/magnaride system isn't prepared for and as such will not be ideal- the 350/FP springs and their minimal drop will be the only exception. Still, not perfect.



With that said I wouldn't be surprised if there was a package/magnaride calibration coming down the pipeline sometime soon. ;)

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The dealer has a process to calibrate the height. The car has to be in a flat area. It only takes seconds with their scan/programmer tool.
So if you drop the car the calibration should take care. That my guess...

BigBoss5.0 said:

How did the install go other than bringing in big bertha? Was it just as straight forward as the CJPP video?

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Yes it was as straightforward as the video other than just “tapping” those spindle bolts out. Big Bertha was the night and day difference. I was about to say “F” it with just a regular hammer. One key factor for me was to turn the wheel where the bolts are facing outward because with the bolts parallel to the car (keeping the tire/spindle straight) I couldn’t get a solid swing. Once I turned the spindle outward I could get a solid swing. By solid swing I mean swing it as if somebody has just call your mother, wife, and children everything but a child of God. The passenger side took me a few swings to figure out how to grip the handle right to get a solid swing because I’m right handed. One other thing is I had to touch up the nuts on my grinder because it had some burrs on them after numerous swings and the socket wouldn’t fit in there properly.

Yes the key factor is turning the wheel. I have done over 50 install on this platform and always used my 2.5lb hammer no problem.

Angry50 said:

Im interested but do not want to make any performance of the car worse. I want it to be as good or better at everything it currently does. if thats possible. my concern is camber as im a mostly a straight line guy and -2.5 camber is not so good. stock seems to be at -1.5 so i would like to be able to keep that.

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I just got my alignment done today. The pre spring picture are the results after installing some BMR suspension parts. The post springs is what was done today.

Thanks! I'm installing on Friday, bought the steeda alignment kit aswell to ensure everything goes on properly.

Odd how your camber is uneven. I would buy camber plates.