Modifying As-Built Data Guide

TexasRebel said:

DRLs are in the European market.
The US-spec cars have no dedicated DRL, and the EU cars don't have gills.

Click to expand...

Haha! Used to be true. Now almost every owner of a European Mustang has those tribars installed and they work both as DRLs and parking lights.

They are on FET transistors in the BCM, so something is telling them when to switch on. Could be something simple or maybe there's logic to it. Dunno, not adept in snooping around in the BCM.

dbranger94 said:

They are on FET transistors in the BCM, so something is telling them when to switch on. Could be something simple or maybe there's logic to it. Dunno, not adept in snooping around in the BCM.

Click to expand...

Yep, that's the DRLs which are configurable with FORScan. Those are not the gills.

I think I'm getting it now.

So, to "unplug" the tri-bars, that means pull the 5A fuse at location 68?

If so, then I have to cut the Gray/Violet wire at pin 3 to add a relay.

pulling fuse 68 should kill it all... That's what wakes the headlamp assembly to accept inputs from the BCM, BJB, and tail lamp circuit.

Tapping into that GY/VT wire will get you low amp power in start or run... maybe enough to run accent lighting if they are LEDs... you'll still likely have to do some (un)soldering to disconnect the gills as they are part of the headlamp assembly.

These are not "dumb" headlamps like an old sealed beam. Each one has a processing circuit reading input signals and following code based on the inputs... for instance, when you switch to high-beams the signal from the BCM tells the headlamp assembly that the high-beams have been selected. The headlamp assembly then alters its own state to comply with the request.

DanMc85 said:

If it is a fake ACM generated one...

(ACM)
727-01-01 xxxx xXxx xxxx

Change that value at X... it is probably currently an A or 2 (or whatever value). Subtract 2 from it... If it is an A make it a 8, if it is an 2 make it a 0, etc...

Fake Engine Sound should go away pending it is a digital version of it and not physical tubes on your engine heading to the interior.

Click to expand...

It seems that this is not correct. In my case it worked because I had an 8 at that position, but it might not work for everybody. It depends on what the value at X is and has to do with converting hex to bin. Unfortunately I cannot explain, because I don’t understand the math behind it.

Go to the following thread, post# 39 onwards, or member [MENTION=30915]DukeGaGa[/MENTION] can chime in here to explain.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98260&page=3

MakStang said:

It seems that this is not correct. In my case it worked because I had an 8 at that position, but it might not work for everybody. It depends on what the value at X is and has to do with converting hex to bin. Unfortunately I cannot explain, because I don’t understand the math behind it.

Go to the following thread, post# 39 onwards, or member [MENTION=30915]DukeGaGa[/MENTION] can chime in here to explain.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98260&page=3

Click to expand...

You need to make bit at position 2 zero. Each X is really 4 bits represented as a hex number from 0 to F. To figure out what you need in that position, take whatever the value is there and AND it with D so:
new value = old value AND D
find a hex calculator online to do this for you. If the result is the same as the initial value then your fake sound was already disabled.

To explain that a bit more in depth...

D = 1101 in base 2.

in logic:
1 AND 1 = 1
0 AND 1 = 0

which retains any old value in the nibble.

likewise:
1 AND 0 = 0
0 AND 0 = 0

which will turn any bit to logic-low.

So lets say you have an A in that particular nibble. (A = 1010)

A & D
1010
1101
1000

1000 base 2 = 8 base 16. (0b1000 == 0x8)

MakStang said:

It seems that this is not correct. In my case it worked because I had an 8 at that position, but it might not work for everybody. It depends on what the value at X is and has to do with converting hex to bin. Unfortunately I cannot explain, because I don’t understand the math behind it.

Go to the following thread, post# 39 onwards, or member [MENTION=30915]DukeGaGa[/MENTION] can chime in here to explain.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98260&page=3

Click to expand...

Thanks for linking this thread, forgot to subscribe to it and can't find it anymore. Also, I think [MENTION=11222]leszek[/MENTION] and [MENTION=22579]TexasRebel[/MENTION] explained it really well, don't think I can do any better than that.

Also on a side note, I'm trying to find if there's a place where we can modify and enable digital tachometer for 2018 automatics, and enable current gear number for 2018 manual (https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98033). Basically it looks like automatics (at least some) don't have the option "Digital Tach" in their settings, and manuals who has that option if disabled will just show blank instead of the current gear you are in like the automatics.

DukeGaGa said:

Thanks for linking this thread, forgot to subscribe to it and can't find it anymore. Also, I think [MENTION=11222]leszek[/MENTION] and [MENTION=22579]TexasRebel[/MENTION] explained it really well, don't think I can do any better than that.

Also on a side note, I'm trying to find if there's a place where we can modify and enable digital tachometer for 2018 automatics, and enable current gear number for 2018 manual (https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98033). Basically it looks like automatics (at least some) don't have the option "Digital Tach" in their settings, and manuals who has that option if disabled will just show blank instead of the current gear you are in like the automatics.

Click to expand...

The manuals don't know what gear they are in... except reverse.

TexasRebel said:

The manuals don't know what gear they are in... except reverse.

Click to expand...

Oh well, figured as much. Though it's kind of stupid tbh, test drove quite a few manual cars since 2015 and all of them has gear indication, and if I remember correctly the gates has sensors otherwise the downshift auto blips in some of the tunes won't be available, but looks like they're using some other way to make it happen.

DukeGaGa said:

Oh well, figured as much. Though it's kind of stupid tbh, test drove quite a few manual cars since 2015 and all of them has gear indication, and if I remember correctly the gates has sensors otherwise the downshift auto blips in some of the tunes won't be available, but looks like they're using some other way to make it happen.

Click to expand...

If it's anything like Harley Davidson, it's a calculated guess based on RPM and MPH.

I verified this in a parking lot once... I got rolling slowly and let my clutch slip a lot in 3rd, but could make the indicator display 1st or 2nd by just varying the slip/RPM.

For the automatics, the transmission is told which gear to use by the same computer controlling the instrument cluster.

What code do you have to change to enable nav on a 15 gt non nav my ford touch car. I already got the card

Anyone know if there is a way to disable the "dual climate" and passenger side climate soft buttons on the sync 3?

jperls said:

Anyone know if there is a way to disable the "dual climate" and passenger side climate soft buttons on the sync 3?

Click to expand...

Yes - take a look at the spreadsheet on the FORSCAN Codes thread below (let me know if this helps)

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98260