svtsnake
Active Member
Does anyone have the strut slotting / alignment service procedure for the 2018's? I cant find any bolt part number other than the W715295-S439. Isn't there another bolt that allows for more camber?
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This post has the number:Does anyone have the strut slotting / alignment service procedure for the 2018's? I cant find any bolt part number other than the W715295-S439. Isn't there another bolt that allows for more camber?
The bolt is not splined and is slightly smaller OD at the head end. The Ford part is also slightly cheaper than the splined bolt. It comes in packages of 4.Should be: W715295*S439
Dick, I've been doing the same thing, trying to get more familiarity with the setup. Left alone, it's a very busy transmission, and if you try to keep the same kind of pace with manual shifts it's exhausting. In traffic I wind up shifting to second and third in very quick succession without a thought (which is good for my muscle memory), then holding the paddle long enough to revert to automatic mode until the next stop. I figure that's getting me used to the part I need to feel most comfortable with. Plus manual downshifts tend to be lurching and unpleasant and sometimes nausea-inducing for my primary passenger.I posted most of this info in a general thread and am repeating it here for autocross relevancy with a couple of modifications.
In order to get used to the paddles for autocrossing (1st - 3rd gears) I tried using the paddles in stop and go low speed surface street driving today. Due to the traffic throttle was very light even at several thousand rpm. The shifts were not quick or pleasant. Frankly it was as if the calibration engineers were shouting in my ears saying "you fool . . . paddles aren't intended for tendered footed driving conditions in traffic. That's what D, or S if you want to play boy racer, are for."
Based on what I observed today in traffic up shifts in those conditions were slow compared to more aggressive situations and down shifts were rough. Maybe very much like Mark and Des observed with the dog leg start. At least with the GT it appears that starting in 2nd may be the best approach when you won't be able to be aggressive in 1st before short shifting to 2nd.
Thanks. I plan on slotting the strut myself, then getting an alignment. The bolts & nuts are single use, so I should get a second set and take them to the shop doing my alignment?This post has the number:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2145886&postcount=2
The bolt is not splined and is slightly smaller OD at the head end. The Ford part is also slightly cheaper than the splined bolt. It comes in packages of 4.
NOTE that the torque spec for both bolts are 184 lb-ft !!!!
The procedure is attached. Slot 1 mm towards the strut. There are helpful hints in the FS autocross thread (or some other recent related thread in this forum). Search back from the present.
I have used the paddles a ton, and they work great if you are full throttle or aggressively braking. To me, it feels like everything was designed for the paddles to only be used when you are pushing the car, then everything works wonderful. For normal around town driving, the trans will be very jerky.Dick, I've been doing the same thing, trying to get more familiarity with the setup. Left alone, it's a very busy transmission, and if you try to keep the same kind of pace with manual shifts it's exhausting. In traffic I wind up shifting to second and third in very quick succession without a thought (which is good for my muscle memory), then holding the paddle long enough to revert to automatic mode until the next stop. I figure that's getting me used to the part I need to feel most comfortable with. Plus manual downshifts tend to be lurching and unpleasant and sometimes nausea-inducing for my primary passenger.
If it is a torque to yield fastener, it will have a torque + angle. Those are absolutely one time use. If just a torque, they're not technically one time use other than legal people being conservative. The only exceptions to this are if they are torque prevailing (they'll have an oblong/oval/dorrito shape instead of round, and typically is the nut not the bolt).Your choice on single use since I'm not qualified to really know, let alone recommend against the advice of the engineers and/or lawyers responsible for the manual's wording.
None of the fasteners (bolts and nuts) "act" like fasteners that have a specified amount of stretch when torqued like some engine bolts.
These, and the other involved fasteners, all behave like "normal" assuming no crash damage or serious corrosion.
I had Asheboro Ford do the camber mod today using 1 mm and the "no spline" bolts. -2.2 on both sides without driver. Since my "racer camber gauge" had close to -1.5 on each side I'm very pleased with -2.2 even on an alignment rack. With zero front toe the steering seems to have a somewhat stronger "self centering feel" on the highway but that is "subjective"I can't compare apples to apples, but my ATS with magneride was stiffer in sport mode than my 2018 Mustang with Konis, both on 35-series Bridgestones.
Also, Dick, finished up alignment over the weekend and got to -2.1. Not as good as my 2015's -2.7 but about what I expected with the 1mm allowance.
-2.2 is decent. I just mounted new 285 RE71Rs after disintegrating the shoulder on one at a class. Poor tire had done 2018 Nats, a handful of local events, and 4 days of track time.I had Asheboro Ford do the camber mod today using 1 mm and the "no spline" bolts. -2.2 on both sides without driver. Since my "racer camber gauge" had close to -1.5 on each side I'm very pleased with -2.2 even on an alignment rack. With zero front toe the steering seems to have a somewhat stronger "self centering feel" on the highway but that is "subjective"
Ordered a new set of 275/35x19 RE-71R's today for one of my autocross wheel sets. Fun times soon if the weather permits!
What do you use the measure camber and toe? I use this bubble camber gauge and toe plates.So I finally leveled the opposite side of the garage (the side I've avoided using before because it was wildly unlevel...) and it took ~1 1/4" of floor tiles on the left front to make it level, lol.
Anyway, I checked my camber and came up with -2.0/-1.9 up front after all of the FSM allowances and on the rear (hasn't been touched from the factory AFAIK) -1.0/-0.5.
Bah, now I feel compelled to mess with the rear... which looks to be a bit PITA with the access to the rear camber "adjuster" and then resetting the toe and such. I just finally got the steering wheel perfectly straight, I'm picky and was turning single tie rods like 1/72nds of a turn, lol.