HoosierDaddy
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He said it was 3 hours FOR BILLING PURPOSES. He never said it took them more than a half hour. ;)
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BMR Tech Tip: Clock those bushings after lowering your S550!
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Blackhawk25
Active Member
I replaced my springs with the Steeda minimal drop springs
No issues noted, do I still need to clock the bushings
The drop is .5 all four corners
No issues noted, do I still need to clock the bushings
The drop is .5 all four corners
Caballito
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So am I right to assume that it’s 184 ft on both front arms? I know it only states one side but two arrows.This s550 suspension is a ton more complex then the 11-14 cars. Its critical to get it right. Mine will be installed next week and you can bet im going down there with this diagram:
Dominant1
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Here is a list of torque values I've collected and summarized for myself while doing my build. I'm willing to keep this first post updated if people would like to list additional info and any corrections.
I make no guarantees they are correct since they came from multiple places.
Front Suspension
BMR Camber Bolt (18mm / 21mm): 125 ft/lbs.
Factory Upper/Lower Strut to Knuckle Bolt (21mm / 24mm): 184 ft/lbs.
Upper Strut Mount Nuts x 3 (15mm deep): 46 ft/lbs.
Strut End Bolt (Do not remove without compressing the spring) (21mm): 76 ft/lbs.
Brake Caliper Bolts (15mm): 85 ft/lbs.
Sway Bar End Links (18mm / 17mm): 85 ft/lbs.
BMR Sway Bar End Links (19mm / 14mm): 85 ft/lbs.
Front Sway Bar Mounts (18mm):
BMR Sway bar Mounts (10mm allen):
Front Lower Control Arm (24mm): 184ft/lbs
Front Lower Control Arm Nut to Spindle: 85 ft/lbs.
Rear Lower Arm to Frame: 184 ft/lbs.
Rear Lower Arm Outboard Nut to Spindle: 85 ft/lbs.
Cowl Extension (Upper K brace): 26 ft/lbs.
Strut Tower Cross Brace (15mm deep): 41 ft/lbs.
BMR Front Subframe Chassis Brace Rear Bolts (1"): 100 ft/lbs.
Inner Radius Arm Bolt (24mm):
Tie Rod to Spindle (18mm):
Steeda Extreme G-Trac Brace Front (10mm allen): 60 ft/lbs.
Steeda Extreme G-Trac Brace Rear (22mm): 60 ft/lbs.
Front spindle/hub nut: 251 ft/lbs.
Body/General
Oil Drain Plug: 19 ft/lbs EB+V6: 20 ft/lbs.
BMR Jacking Rails (15mm): 63 ft/lbs.
Lug Nuts: 148 ft/lbs.
Front Exhaust Clamp: 35 ft/lbs.
Exhaust Hangers: 18 ft/lbs.
Windshield Wiper Pivot Arm Nuts: 26 ft/lbs.
Negative Battery Cable: 44 in/lbs.
Transmission Cross Member (18mm): 85 ft/lbs.
BMR Driveshaft Loop (3/8"): 40 ft/lbs.
Front Belly Pan (7mm):
Differential Drain and Fill Plugs: 25 ft/lbs.
Water Pump Pully: 18 ft/lbs. EB: 177 in/lbs. V6: 18 ft/lbs.
Rear Suspension
Front Inner lower control arm bolts (24mm): 166 ft/lbs.
Rear Inner lower control arm bolts (24mm): 184 ft/lbs.
Outer control arm bolt (21mm): 203 ft/lbs.
Shock to Upper Shock Mount Nut: 22 ft/lbs.
Upper Shock Bolts: 66 ft/lbs.
Lower Shock bolts (15mm): 35 ft/lbs.
Main Cradle Bolts (21mm): 129 ft/lbs.
Front Cradle Bracket Bolts (13mm): 41 ft/lbs.
Rear Sway Bar Mount (13mm): 24 ft/lbs.
BMR Rear Sway Bar Mounts (13mm): 24 ft/lbs.
BMR Rear Sway Bar Thrust Washers (3/16" allen):
Sway Bar End Links (15mm / 18mm / 6mm allen): 85 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Bracket Bolts: 52 ft/lbs.
BMR Sway Bar End Links (19mm / 14mm): 85 ft/lbs.
BMR Sway Bar End Links Jam Nuts (19mm):
Rear Swaybar Endlink Brake Hose Mount (10mm):
Vertical Link Upper Bolt (15mm): 76 ft/lbs.
BMR Vertical Link Upper Bolt (19mm): 81 ft/lbs.
Vertical Link Lower Bolt (18mm): 129 ft/lbs.
Toe Rod Inner Bolt (18mm / 21mm): 129 ft/lbs.
Toe Rod Outer Bolt (18mm): 129 ft/lbs.
BMR Toe Rod Inner Bolt (22mm x 2): 129 ft/lbs.
BMR Toe Rod Outer Bolt (22mm): 129 ft/lbs.
Camber Arm to Knuckle: 76 ft/lbs.
Camber Arm to Subframe: 85 ft/lbs.
Rear Brake Caliper Bolts: 24 ft/lbs.
Bump Stops
Bump stop trim dimensions for lowered cars pictured below. FRPP Bump stops are identical (same durometer as well) to the factory ones other than cut down. Save money and either cut your originals or order factory replacements to cut.
Alignment
Factory Spec
Front - Camber: -1.03 Total Toe: 0.00
Rear - Camber: -1.50 Total Toe: 0.23
Ford Performance Spec
Front - Camber: -1.55 Total Toe: 0.00
Rear - Camber: -1.98 Total Toe: 0.23
I make no guarantees they are correct since they came from multiple places.
Front Suspension
BMR Camber Bolt (18mm / 21mm): 125 ft/lbs.
Factory Upper/Lower Strut to Knuckle Bolt (21mm / 24mm): 184 ft/lbs.
Upper Strut Mount Nuts x 3 (15mm deep): 46 ft/lbs.
Strut End Bolt (Do not remove without compressing the spring) (21mm): 76 ft/lbs.
Brake Caliper Bolts (15mm): 85 ft/lbs.
Sway Bar End Links (18mm / 17mm): 85 ft/lbs.
BMR Sway Bar End Links (19mm / 14mm): 85 ft/lbs.
Front Sway Bar Mounts (18mm):
BMR Sway bar Mounts (10mm allen):
Front Lower Control Arm (24mm): 184ft/lbs
Front Lower Control Arm Nut to Spindle: 85 ft/lbs.
Rear Lower Arm to Frame: 184 ft/lbs.
Rear Lower Arm Outboard Nut to Spindle: 85 ft/lbs.
Cowl Extension (Upper K brace): 26 ft/lbs.
Strut Tower Cross Brace (15mm deep): 41 ft/lbs.
BMR Front Subframe Chassis Brace Rear Bolts (1"): 100 ft/lbs.
Inner Radius Arm Bolt (24mm):
Tie Rod to Spindle (18mm):
Steeda Extreme G-Trac Brace Front (10mm allen): 60 ft/lbs.
Steeda Extreme G-Trac Brace Rear (22mm): 60 ft/lbs.
Front spindle/hub nut: 251 ft/lbs.
Body/General
Oil Drain Plug: 19 ft/lbs EB+V6: 20 ft/lbs.
BMR Jacking Rails (15mm): 63 ft/lbs.
Lug Nuts: 148 ft/lbs.
Front Exhaust Clamp: 35 ft/lbs.
Exhaust Hangers: 18 ft/lbs.
Windshield Wiper Pivot Arm Nuts: 26 ft/lbs.
Negative Battery Cable: 44 in/lbs.
Transmission Cross Member (18mm): 85 ft/lbs.
BMR Driveshaft Loop (3/8"): 40 ft/lbs.
Front Belly Pan (7mm):
Differential Drain and Fill Plugs: 25 ft/lbs.
Water Pump Pully: 18 ft/lbs. EB: 177 in/lbs. V6: 18 ft/lbs.
Rear Suspension
Front Inner lower control arm bolts (24mm): 166 ft/lbs.
Rear Inner lower control arm bolts (24mm): 184 ft/lbs.
Outer control arm bolt (21mm): 203 ft/lbs.
Shock to Upper Shock Mount Nut: 22 ft/lbs.
Upper Shock Bolts: 66 ft/lbs.
Lower Shock bolts (15mm): 35 ft/lbs.
Main Cradle Bolts (21mm): 129 ft/lbs.
Front Cradle Bracket Bolts (13mm): 41 ft/lbs.
Rear Sway Bar Mount (13mm): 24 ft/lbs.
BMR Rear Sway Bar Mounts (13mm): 24 ft/lbs.
BMR Rear Sway Bar Thrust Washers (3/16" allen):
Sway Bar End Links (15mm / 18mm / 6mm allen): 85 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Bracket Bolts: 52 ft/lbs.
BMR Sway Bar End Links (19mm / 14mm): 85 ft/lbs.
BMR Sway Bar End Links Jam Nuts (19mm):
Rear Swaybar Endlink Brake Hose Mount (10mm):
Vertical Link Upper Bolt (15mm): 76 ft/lbs.
BMR Vertical Link Upper Bolt (19mm): 81 ft/lbs.
Vertical Link Lower Bolt (18mm): 129 ft/lbs.
Toe Rod Inner Bolt (18mm / 21mm): 129 ft/lbs.
Toe Rod Outer Bolt (18mm): 129 ft/lbs.
BMR Toe Rod Inner Bolt (22mm x 2): 129 ft/lbs.
BMR Toe Rod Outer Bolt (22mm): 129 ft/lbs.
Camber Arm to Knuckle: 76 ft/lbs.
Camber Arm to Subframe: 85 ft/lbs.
Rear Brake Caliper Bolts: 24 ft/lbs.
Bump Stops
Bump stop trim dimensions for lowered cars pictured below. FRPP Bump stops are identical (same durometer as well) to the factory ones other than cut down. Save money and either cut your originals or order factory replacements to cut.
Alignment
Factory Spec
Front - Camber: -1.03 Total Toe: 0.00
Rear - Camber: -1.50 Total Toe: 0.23
Ford Performance Spec
Front - Camber: -1.55 Total Toe: 0.00
Rear - Camber: -1.98 Total Toe: 0.23
Caballito
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thanx i have this info the only problem is that i dont
now what the descriotion is exactly.everybody calls it diferently.
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Blackhawk25
Active Member
I also installed minimum drop springs. I asked Kelly from BMR this specific question regarding clocking the bushings , he replied not really necessary for minimum drop. Anything over 1 inch he would recommend clocking. I have not experienced any noises or squeaks, and I have not yet aligned the vehicle. The drop seems even on all 4 corners
TheLion
Well-Known Member
Then it's not really necessary to clock the rear even with Performance and Handling springs from BMR because the rear drop is only 1/2". A 150 lb passenger in the rear seat will compress the stock suspension more than that....
The only bushing in the rear that I would still clock with a 1/2" rear drop is the inner lower control arm bushing. It gets a lot of abuse as it handles lateral and vertical loads during breaking and cornering.
If you have a PP car with upgraded out toe link bearings, then there's no need to clock either toe link end or any other lower control arm bearings as they are all spherical bearings.
TheLion
Well-Known Member
If your doing it in your home garage, I found the following procedure to be the most useful:
1. Jack the car up on jack stands using TWO jacks (harbor Freight has some nice 3-ton low profile jacks for $100 each), one under each rear lower control arm right under where the spring sits, it has a grid pattern cast into it and makes a perfect jacking point. This will keep the rear suspension somewhat compressed as you jack it up, giving you more clearance between the tires and the ground to maximize lift height once you lower the car onto the ramps.
2. Use ramps and some blocks of wood stacked on top of the ramps under the rear tires and let the car down on top of them. Or if you also have a pair of those low profile storage ramps meant to keep your tires from flat spotting, stack those on top of your regular ramps, which is what I did. Now the car should have at least 18~20+ inches of clearance under the rear end, giving you some reasonable space to work.
3. You need A. 24 mm impact socket,
B. 1/2 inch impact rated U-joint,
C. long extension + short extension (1/2 inch drive of course)
and D. 1/2 drive 20 inch long torque wrench that can do at least 166 ft-lbs. Tekton has some nice ones for about $60 that are even factory calibrated: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-2-Inch-ft-lb-33-9-338-9/dp/B00C5ZL1NS/ref=sr_1_5/135-8055074-4904610?ie=UTF8&qid=1530794837&sr=8-5&keywords=tekton+1+2+torque+wrench
General Process (note that you will need 2 people for this procedure):
1. Set the torque wrench to 166 ft-lbs and attach the 24 mm socket to the U-joint, then both extensions and then finally attach it to the wrench. Connect the socket to the bolt head on the drivers side first, with the end of the wrench facing the drivers side (you will need to push UP to tighten, but pull down to loosen).
2. Loosen the inner front lower control arm bolt on the drivers side (not for some, it may be easier to have the wrench facing the opposite direction for loosening). An air or electric powered impact wrench is very helpful to loosen as well if you happen to be so blessed, but the 20-inch torque wrench can also be used to loosen bolts manually. Now that it's loose, were ready to re-tighten so the bushing is locked in it's current neutral position at ride height.
3. Next place one of the jack stands under the end of the wrench (with the handle facing towards the drivers side.
4. You need to apply pressure to the end of the wrench (pushing it up against the bold head) to keep it from popping off the bolt head while your friend / spouse slowly raises the jack and forces the wrench to rotate.
5. You will probably need to jack the jack up all the way 3-5 times, restarting each time by lowering the jack and letting the wrench click to the next tooth. I actually had to pull the jack out from under the wrench handle to move it enough to get it to click to the next tooth, then slide it back under the handle and repeat until I got the click indicator that the desired torque was reached. I had my wife operate the jack while I applied pressure on the end of the wrench to keep it in place.
Make sure the socket is on straight, yes it will fit, just barely, but it will. No need to remove the exhaust or any parts. The U-joint will be at it's maximum 45 degree angle, it's just enough clearance. Hope this helps.
1. Jack the car up on jack stands using TWO jacks (harbor Freight has some nice 3-ton low profile jacks for $100 each), one under each rear lower control arm right under where the spring sits, it has a grid pattern cast into it and makes a perfect jacking point. This will keep the rear suspension somewhat compressed as you jack it up, giving you more clearance between the tires and the ground to maximize lift height once you lower the car onto the ramps.
2. Use ramps and some blocks of wood stacked on top of the ramps under the rear tires and let the car down on top of them. Or if you also have a pair of those low profile storage ramps meant to keep your tires from flat spotting, stack those on top of your regular ramps, which is what I did. Now the car should have at least 18~20+ inches of clearance under the rear end, giving you some reasonable space to work.
3. You need A. 24 mm impact socket,
B. 1/2 inch impact rated U-joint,
C. long extension + short extension (1/2 inch drive of course)
and D. 1/2 drive 20 inch long torque wrench that can do at least 166 ft-lbs. Tekton has some nice ones for about $60 that are even factory calibrated: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-2-Inch-ft-lb-33-9-338-9/dp/B00C5ZL1NS/ref=sr_1_5/135-8055074-4904610?ie=UTF8&qid=1530794837&sr=8-5&keywords=tekton+1+2+torque+wrench
General Process (note that you will need 2 people for this procedure):
1. Set the torque wrench to 166 ft-lbs and attach the 24 mm socket to the U-joint, then both extensions and then finally attach it to the wrench. Connect the socket to the bolt head on the drivers side first, with the end of the wrench facing the drivers side (you will need to push UP to tighten, but pull down to loosen).
2. Loosen the inner front lower control arm bolt on the drivers side (not for some, it may be easier to have the wrench facing the opposite direction for loosening). An air or electric powered impact wrench is very helpful to loosen as well if you happen to be so blessed, but the 20-inch torque wrench can also be used to loosen bolts manually. Now that it's loose, were ready to re-tighten so the bushing is locked in it's current neutral position at ride height.
3. Next place one of the jack stands under the end of the wrench (with the handle facing towards the drivers side.
4. You need to apply pressure to the end of the wrench (pushing it up against the bold head) to keep it from popping off the bolt head while your friend / spouse slowly raises the jack and forces the wrench to rotate.
5. You will probably need to jack the jack up all the way 3-5 times, restarting each time by lowering the jack and letting the wrench click to the next tooth. I actually had to pull the jack out from under the wrench handle to move it enough to get it to click to the next tooth, then slide it back under the handle and repeat until I got the click indicator that the desired torque was reached. I had my wife operate the jack while I applied pressure on the end of the wrench to keep it in place.
Make sure the socket is on straight, yes it will fit, just barely, but it will. No need to remove the exhaust or any parts. The U-joint will be at it's maximum 45 degree angle, it's just enough clearance. Hope this helps.
JOKER M1
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Is there anything wrong with breaking all the bolts loose with tires off and suspension unloaded (for ease of accessing them) then install wheels and lower car to load the suspension then torque everything.
Caballito
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its harder to torqye them the to loosen them in my experience. get a lift it tall tires stands
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4thGearRattle
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I have the same question. Are both front arrows 184lbft? Thanks.
BmacIL
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Correct.I have the same question. Are both front arrows 184lbft? Thanks.
cyclonetron
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I'm lowered on Eibach Pro-kits with base suspension. Installing Steeda subframe alignment kit, and BMR camber bolts tomorrow. The alignment shop said they would be able to retorque these bolts but may charge me extra for it.
What cost sounds reasonable?
Also, will this change how the car drives?
What cost sounds reasonable?
Also, will this change how the car drives?
BmacIL
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$50-100 extra would be reasonable, IMO. The ride will improve, feel less bouncy, and it will prevent the bushings from failing early.
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