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Rear Differential Pinion Seal

Bahndvr

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Anyone know what would cause the front seal to go?
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Bahndvr

Bahndvr

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The pumpkin has a vent, where is it located? If clogged can it be replaced/cleaned?
 

Anthony 05 GT

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I doubt it would be clogged and it's probably up top. I've had seals on vehicles several times that just failed way too soon. Probably defective or not installed properly.

Also, I've seen oil leak past the pinion shaft splines because not enough sealant was used behind the nut and washer on a new Mustang my son owned.
 
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Bahndvr

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Oh Wow, okay.
Do you know if I will need to buy the companion flange as well as the pinion seal?
 

Anthony 05 GT

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Probably not unless the seal's mating surface on the flange was scratched where the seal lip rides. In that case it can be polished smooth in most cases.
 

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lxh89

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Oh Wow, okay.
Do you know if I will need to buy the companion flange as well as the pinion seal?
You'll need a new pinion nut, crush collar, bearing seal driver kit (can rent @ autozone) and three jaw puller (can rent @ autozone) in addition to the seal. Also, make sure you reference the pinion flange orientation relative to the pinion shaft before removing the nut/flange.

You'll need a beam style torque to measure turning torque to get the preload on the pinion nut within spec. You'll need a pinion flange tool to hold the pinion flange while you torque down the pinion nut to spec.

I used this one:
Pinion Flange Tool

Oh, no new companion flange is needed.

Tony
 
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You'll need a new pinion nut, crush collar, bearing seal driver kit (can rent @ autozone) and three jaw puller (can rent @ autozone) in addition to the seal. Also, make sure you reference the pinion flange orientation relative to the pinion shaft before removing the nut/flange.

You'll need a beam style torque to measure turning torque to get the preload on the pinion nut within spec. You'll need a pinion flange tool to hold the pinion flange while you torque down the pinion nut to spec.

I used this one:
Pinion Flange Tool

Oh, no new companion flange is needed.

Tony
Thanks for the info. More is better. I've been in communication with people that have worked on the rearend and one of my questions was about the crush sleeve, here is what they said:
Unless you tear down the entire differential you cannot replace and reset it. This is why you'd need to mark the angle of the pinion flange nut to the pinion spline in order to reestablish the pinion bearing pre-load you already had.
To do it without rebuilding the differential will be trickier as you will have to remove the pinion flange and thus lose your pinion bearing preload. The best you can do is mark the pinion nut to the pinion and torque it back to the exactly same angle it already was in attempt to not change your preload.
 

Anthony 05 GT

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That's correct. You don't need a crush sleeve to replace just the seal. Use a center punch to mark nut in relation to the shaft. Remove the flange and seal and check the condition of the flange sealing surface. Clean the splines and threaded area of the shaft. Have someone familiar with seal installation do the actual seal install. Put the flange back on with silicone sealant on the outer part of the splines, apply a bit more silicone to the area behind the nut and washer. Apply red loc-tite (a drop) to the threads and tighten nut no more than your center punch marks. Don't accidentally over tighten the nut.

I usually count how many complete turns it takes to remove the nut so there's no guessing. I've never had a problem doing it this way.
 

lxh89

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The crush collar is a backup in case you screw up the existing one. It's easier to have it in hand rather than trying to find one locally (or wait a few days to get via mail).

Your choice...

Tony
 
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Bahndvr

Bahndvr

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Pinion Seal

That's correct. You don't need a crush sleeve to replace just the seal. Use a center punch to mark nut in relation to the shaft. Remove the flange and seal and check the condition of the flange sealing surface. Clean the splines and threaded area of the shaft. Have someone familiar with seal installation do the actual seal install. Put the flange back on with silicone sealant on the outer part of the splines, apply a bit more silicone to the area behind the nut and washer. Apply red loc-tite (a drop) to the threads and tighten nut no more than your center punch marks. Don't accidentally over tighten the nut.

I usually count how many complete turns it takes to remove the nut so there's no guessing. I've never had a problem doing it this way.
Good info. I'm pretty much a one-man-band. I can get an extra set of hands and even two minds but no one more experienced then myself.
I'm looking at the Ford Special Tool used to install the 'Drive Pinion Seal'

The crush collar is a backup in case you screw up the existing one. It's easier to have it in hand rather than trying to find one locally (or wait a few days to get via mail).

Your choice...

Tony
Oh okay. It sounded as if you were saying I would have to replace. I will do what I can Not to screw it up cuz it looks like the crush sleeve is only accessible from the inside so...

Don't know how to put this under the picture but here it is:
3 - Companion Flange
4 - Pinion Seal
5 - Front Pinion Bearing
6 - Pinion Bearing Spacer
7 - Inner Pinion Bearing
8 - Washers
9 - Ring & Pinion
Mustang Rear Axle 16.jpg
 
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Anthony 05 GT

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I've haven't worked on one of these new units yet, but have been into many different ones over the years. I'd like to offer more help, but that parts break down you posted does not have the parts list that goes along with it. Each numbered item on the pic should have a numbered list with a brief description of what each part is.
 
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Bahndvr

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I've haven't worked on one of these new units yet, but have been into many different ones over the years. I'd like to offer more help, but that parts break down you posted does not have the parts list that goes along with it. Each numbered item on the pic should have a numbered list with a brief description of what each part is.
I've added the parts list up to ring & pinion.
I forgot to ask which silicon do you recommend?
 

Anthony 05 GT

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I don't see a crush sleeve on the list. It looks like you remove the nut and washer that holds the flange on and then replace the seal. I would remove the rear cover, drain all fluid and brakleen the splines, threads on the pinion shaft and the splines on the flange. Clean the mating surfaces of the cover and housing and use Permatex Ultra black sealant for the cover and the splines/behind the washer at the flange. You don't want gear lube seeping through the splines and past the washer and nut.

It's going to take a lot of leverage to break the nut loose. I usually break loose (slightly) with an air impact then remove with hand tools and tighten it as far as I can with hand tools, then finish tightening very carefully with an air impact being very careful not to go too far at all. Just a blip at a time with the air gun. Use a drop of red Loctite on the threads which have been cleaned thoroughly and dried using Brakleen. Remember to center punch your marks on the nut and shaft for reference on tightening. Count how many turns before the nut actually comes off the shaft. Better safe than sorry
 

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I believe part #6 is crush sleeve.

TO get it crush down air impact won't get it done. I've tried 1/2 and 3/4 impact this was on old 8.8 in my 2011. Damn 3/4 impact couldn't get it done wow. So I went with solid sleeve setup.
 

Anthony 05 GT

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He won't need a crush sleeve to swap the seal. I know what you're talking about though, I've had to use a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe in the past.
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