Sponsored

***Urgent*** Check Clutch Line At Brake Master Cylinder

EF300

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2015
Threads
73
Messages
2,587
Reaction score
1,377
Location
The Swamp, Central FL
Vehicle(s)
2017 GT350, 2020 GT500 CFTP
This is a nice idea, I found mine was loose and was slightly seeping. I don't trust the dealership to actually fix this properly and judging by other posts, they'll just put the same crappy line back on it.

Can you describe what you did when removing the line? It's my first time removing something like this.

Did you drain the brake reservoir first, and then remove the line with just something underneath to catch fluid? Or does it not drain without some kind of suction?

Did you have to bleed the clutch after wards?

Thanks!
Yes also interested to know.

TY
Sponsored

 

magneticgrey_manstick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2017
Threads
10
Messages
98
Reaction score
13
Location
SoCal
Vehicle(s)
(No longer have this lemon, 2020 on its way) 2018 magnetic gt
yup, mine had no leakage but needed to be pushed back in as well
 

TwinReverb

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2014
Threads
6
Messages
195
Reaction score
70
Location
OKC
First Name
Alan
Vehicle(s)
2016 Mustang GT PP
This is a nice idea, I found mine was loose and was slightly seeping. I don't trust the dealership to actually fix this properly and judging by other posts, they'll just put the same crappy line back on it.

Can you describe what you did when removing the line? It's my first time removing something like this.

Did you drain the brake reservoir first, and then remove the line with just something underneath to catch fluid? Or does it not drain without some kind of suction?

Did you have to bleed the clutch after wards?

Thanks!
You are correct a dealership may just put the same line on, if do anything at all.
The line is really more of a corrugated plastic hose /straw than anything else.
It has two rubber o-rings/grommets which are supposed to make the seal against the barbs.

I attached pictures the line and grommets

For removal of the line I first started by draining the brake fluid from the reservoir as close to the clutch line. I used this syringe from amazon
Yobett Large Plastic 100ml Syringe +120cm (47in) handy plastic tubing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J26U3R8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

After draining the reservoir to the clutch line I removed the line from the reservoir and then the firewall. To remove the line I just squeezed the end of the line and pulled. The rubber grommets are the only things holding the line to the barb ends of the clutch master cylinder.
With enough pulling pressure I was able to get the line off. It was a significant amount to pull from the clutch master cylinder on the firewall as compared to the reservoir.

Once off, I measured and cut the titlon line to length put the hose clamps around the line and then pushed the lines on. The barbs on both the reservoir and clutch master cylinder are enough to hold the line on without the clamps.

After getting the line on I placed the brake fluid back in the reservoir.
Makes sure to slowly extract and place the fluid in the reservoir from the syringe to avoid air bubbles. I then did have to bleed the clutch again.

It is very handy to have a mityvac(preferably the metal version) to put the reservoir under vacuum to get air out of the system. Careful not to suck fluid in the mityvac otherwise you will need to disassemble, clean and rebuild the mityvac.

Ford clutch bleeding procedure on post#5 of this thread http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63197&highlight=Clutch+bleed


26557287698_aec2937353.jpg


39717787704_4539017cb8.jpg


38617433590_cc4e51b081.jpg
 

Sponsored

SMJ540

New Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Threads
0
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
GA
Vehicle(s)
2019 GT
You are correct a dealership may just put the same line on, if do anything at all.
The line is really more of a corrugated plastic hose /straw than anything else.
It has two rubber o-rings/grommets which are supposed to make the seal against the barbs.

I attached pictures the line and grommets

For removal of the line I first started by draining the brake fluid from the reservoir as close to the clutch line. I used this syringe from amazon
Yobett Large Plastic 100ml Syringe +120cm (47in) handy plastic tubing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J26U3R8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

After draining the reservoir to the clutch line I removed the line from the reservoir and then the firewall. To remove the line I just squeezed the end of the line and pulled. The rubber grommets are the only things holding the line to the barb ends of the clutch master cylinder.
With enough pulling pressure I was able to get the line off. It was a significant amount to pull from the clutch master cylinder on the firewall as compared to the reservoir.

Once off, I measured and cut the titlon line to length put the hose clamps around the line and then pushed the lines on. The barbs on both the reservoir and clutch master cylinder are enough to hold the line on without the clamps.

After getting the line on I placed the brake fluid back in the reservoir.
Makes sure to slowly extract and place the fluid in the reservoir from the syringe to avoid air bubbles. I then did have to bleed the clutch again.

It is very handy to have a mityvac(preferably the metal version) to put the reservoir under vacuum to get air out of the system. Careful not to suck fluid in the mityvac otherwise you will need to disassemble, clean and rebuild the mityvac.

Ford clutch bleeding procedure on post#5 of this thread http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63197&highlight=Clutch+bleed

Thanks for the write up, much appreciated. I've never bled brakes/clutch with a vacuum system, that seems interesting. Doesn't seem too bad overall if you have the right tools. I'll have to pickup one of those Mityvac's for this.
 

VIPR01

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2018
Threads
14
Messages
265
Reaction score
318
Location
Valhalla
Vehicle(s)
71 Gremlin
Thanks for the Heads-Up, checked mine today looked like the 1st picture.
 

stang17

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2016
Threads
24
Messages
553
Reaction score
195
Location
Wilkes Barre, PA
Vehicle(s)
2017 GT Premium PP
Once I know more, we'll start a new thread & see if we can get 6G to feature it.

But like I said, we want to ensure we can meet expectations.

Best Regards,

TJ
Any updates on this.
 

jimmerheck

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2018
Threads
18
Messages
536
Reaction score
248
Location
Vancouver, Wa.
First Name
Jim
Vehicle(s)
2016 Mustang GT Cal Special
checked mine last night, 16 GT, 7k miles, almost off. Pushed it back on and heard and felt it click. No fluid around connection or below it, but did see some brake fluid when I pushed it back on. Will put a few zip ties on it tonight.
 

Bridgie

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 25, 2015
Threads
38
Messages
537
Reaction score
831
Location
Raleigh, North Carolina
First Name
Dave
Vehicle(s)
2015 GT fastback. PP, 50th trim, Black
After total clutch failure at VIR this weekend, I’ve had to pay out $150 for a Uhaul car trailer and a friends gas money to ge5 the car back home.

Can not engage any gears withengine running, pedal went to the floor and very soft whilst on track. First thought was boiling fluid, but has recently replaced with TYP200 specifically for track days.

Car is now home, checked the connector and it’s most of the way off like Pic 1. However the tube is so tight, pushing the hose back on makes no difference, the strain on the hose returns it to the same position.
Will try again tomorrow and Vac bleed the clutch system to rid any air that has got in.
I’m not entirely sure if Air is the main cause though.

Any thoughts, help or ideas are most welcome before we pull the transmission out to investigate further. Only 24k miles.
 

Sponsored

BmacIL

Enginerd
Joined
Sep 21, 2014
Threads
69
Messages
15,010
Reaction score
8,920
Location
Naperville, IL
Vehicle(s)
2015 Guard GT Base, M/T
Vehicle Showcase
1
After total clutch failure at VIR this weekend, I’ve had to pay out $150 for a Uhaul car trailer and a friends gas money to ge5 the car back home.

Can not engage any gears withengine running, pedal went to the floor and very soft whilst on track. First thought was boiling fluid, but has recently replaced with TYP200 specifically for track days.

Car is now home, checked the connector and it’s most of the way off like Pic 1. However the tube is so tight, pushing the hose back on makes no difference, the strain on the hose returns it to the same position.
Will try again tomorrow and Vac bleed the clutch system to rid any air that has got in.
I’m not entirely sure if Air is the main cause though.

Any thoughts, help or ideas are most welcome before we pull the transmission out to investigate further. Only 24k miles.
Slave cylinder is dead. Seems to be a common thing with these cars on track...
 

Bridgie

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 25, 2015
Threads
38
Messages
537
Reaction score
831
Location
Raleigh, North Carolina
First Name
Dave
Vehicle(s)
2015 GT fastback. PP, 50th trim, Black
Slave cylinder is dead. Seems to be a common thing with these cars on track...
A few questions:
So.. dropping the box to access it then..?
What is a recommended after market fix Exedy hydraulic..?

Does this typically damage the clutch too.?
 

AlbertD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2016
Threads
74
Messages
627
Reaction score
366
Location
Tucson, AZ
Vehicle(s)
2016 GT/PP
Slave cylinder is dead. Seems to be a common thing with these cars on track...
I agree with Bmac. Literally the exact same thing happened to me on track just a few weeks ago. My car has 29k and has been tracked hard some I bought it.
Thread I opened... https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99368

My slave cylinder came out in pieces when I dropped the trans. Since I limped the car home I ended up damaging the clutch disk so I decided to go with an exedy replacement.

You can try vacuum bleeding the clutch and if that doesn’t work, it is a safe bet that you will have to drop the trans and replace the throw out bearing. I think the high heat and the repetitive high rpm shifts end up killing the slave cylinder.
 

Bluedream

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2016
Threads
0
Messages
56
Reaction score
21
Location
omaha,NE
Vehicle(s)
2016 GT DIB premium pp, 2017 Focus RS
Thanks for the info op. Checked my 16 and it was nearly off, pushed gently and i heard it click into place. Great info that is why i love this forum!!!
 

Bridgie

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 25, 2015
Threads
38
Messages
537
Reaction score
831
Location
Raleigh, North Carolina
First Name
Dave
Vehicle(s)
2015 GT fastback. PP, 50th trim, Black
Great news, our team is currently investigating a fix for this - I will let you all know when our R & D is complete & if we can create a cost-effective solution.

TJ
Any Progress.?
Sponsored

 
 




Top