SYNC 3 swap, It's all in here

MAV said:

I'm not necessarily wanting to install the Fusion ACM because I don't really have a need for sat/HD. However, since it came as part of a deal (free), I wondered if it would work with a simple bracket swap. If everything else is equivalent and compatible to the Mustang ACM, I thought I might as well exchange it while I'm in there.

But again, without confirmation that the non-Clarion units will work, it's probably a moot point.

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The guy that is selling that gave me the VIN, I'll look it up and see. The issue I see is that the CD slot and the overall size of the chassis appear different from the Mustang ACM.

I've been trying to find a APIM for cheap but no luck. On a sync 3. Glad I have a 2 sitting in the garage waiting for now.

Sherrodmustang said:

It is.. dang it..

The description says nav, wtf..

I went ahead and purchased based on the description, as I didn't want it to get away.

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Simplyknown said:

I've been trying to find a APIM for cheap but no luck. On a sync 3. Glad I have a 2 sitting in the garage waiting for now.

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I swooped in on the one Sherrodmustang passed on like a vulture. Arrived today, it's in great shape. I feel your pain on tracking these things down...seems to be getting harder for sure.

Patio208 said:

I swooped in on the one Sherrodmustang passed on like a vulture. Arrived today, it's in great shape. I feel your pain on tracking these things down...seems to be getting harder for sure.

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Glad to see you got it and it was in great shape!

An afterthought on Steps 6 and 7

While I followed the instructions as written, I got to thinking afterward if splicing and soldering the 4 wires is the only way to do it.

Is there a reason why a male terminal (such as Tyco 571-1924-968-1) can’t be used instead of splicing, soldering, and taping a wire onto the MS-CAN + and MS-CAN - and back-up wires? It seems to make sense that all it would take is to identify the corresponding receptacle for the wires on the now unused respective connectors and plug ‘em in.

On the other hand, ‘sperience has taught me that, what seemed to be a good idea at the time was anything but....

Thoughts?

Michael J said:

While I followed the instructions as written, I got to thinking afterward if splicing and soldering the 4 wires is the only way to do it.

Is there a reason why a male terminal (such as Tyco 571-1924-968-1) can’t be used instead of splicing, soldering, and taping a wire onto the MS-CAN + and MS-CAN - and back-up wires? It seems to make sense that all it would take is to identify the corresponding receptacle for the wires on the now unused respective connectors and plug ‘em in.

On the other hand, ‘sperience has taught me that, what seemed to be a good idea at the time was anything but....

Thoughts?

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You could if you were good with heat shrink. I considered it but it still means re-pinning and an overwhelming number of people want simplicity and the ease of going back to stock. The harness will make this all a breeze. That’s why I have spent so much time and money pursuing it. The only issue I have now is the connector we had to build ourselves. It’s been printed and prototypes but it still needs to be tested.

Looks like Ford has a national backorder on one of the hub harnesses: FR3Z-14D202-A Was informed it won't be available till early March...

^^^I hit that same brick wall yesterday.

As did I. I got my hub and "B" cable from Autonation WBL today.

I must have got the last one in the world then. Mine came in late last week. Just waiting on the damn bezel/FCIM now...

There are still some in Dealer stock. If someone needs one pm me.

HextallS550 said:

There are still some in Dealer stock. If someone needs one pm me.

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I've reached out to all of those places and havent gotten a response from any of them lol.

By phone or email? Most Ford Parts departments are still in the 20th century. People don’t realize this because we’re spoiled by Mike R and Steve. If you send emails via fordparts.com the chances it will be read in the next month are slim.

Okay, want to make sure I understand the wiring correctly before I tear into the install part.

I have base radio that I am swaping for the Sync 3 with Nav. The ACM I didn't swap out, as I am not interested in Sat radio or HD.

The APIM harness I need to add a pin to 8 and that gets ran to the new hub and connector along with pin 38. I understand that part pretty well, positive and neg for the hub.

Pin 5 and 6 gets swaped to pin 12 and 13 (mic + and -) slot? Correct?

Pin 16 and 17 gets swaped to pin 19 and 20 the same way?

I add a pin to 14 and 15 (backup Cam) and that goes to the wires that was connected original to the 4.2.screen? Can I cut these wires and extended them to the APIM connector or does the connector stay and I just tie into the wires with a little soldering? Is this because of the can-bus system or the factor to allow to go back to stock in the future easily?

I then add pin 16 and 17 and these also go to the factory GPMS wires and gets soldered inline because of the can-bus system and the way the connector is wired. Not just cut the connector off and extened the wires or cut the wires in half?

Then because I am not swaping ACM's for Sat and HD I don't need to do anything to pins 23, 24, 25 and 26. They can stay in there current pin location and nothing needed to change?

Pin 29 then I need to swap to pin 31 location?

Pin 51 and 52 is also something that is not needed because I am not adding a new ACM with Sat and HD, is this correct? This is the data link for Sirius Radio?

Hopefully I am not missing something and understand the wiring process. Going to tackle this over the weekend.

Thanks again for this thread!!

MAV said:

I must have got the last one in the world then. Mine came in late last week. Just waiting on the damn bezel/FCIM now...

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Thanks to a foot of snow and the lack of an FCIM I'm not in a rush. Apparently the Shelby bezel is made from unicorn tears.