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Rear Diff Fluid Pump

ronemca

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I did a tranny & rear diff transfusion a cuppla weeks ago and it was super-awkward and troublesome to refill both housings. I know - I know - there are a zillion posts online that suggest one or some of the following:

* warm up the new fluid first
* use a funnel and gravity
* large syringe
* valved twin-hose pump from HFT or similar
* single-piston pump (like Wendy's ketchup)
* short hose + original bottle + gorilla hand strength

And probably more. But I don't like or want to do any of those, because they all suck.

I bough the twin-hose HFT valved pump, and it was GARBAGE. It was so lame it wouldn't even pull the fluid into the cylinder - much less pump it up/out of the discharge hose (returned it)

And there's no way a single-piston ketchup pump will pull diff fluid out of the bottle AND straight up into the diff hole. Tranny fluid maybe, but the other? No way.

I ended up doing the bottle + grip of death thing on the rear diff. And I got it done, but it was messy and awkward. And for 90% of the time, I was saying:

Okay - this is the end for this circus. I'm gonna get a proper device. And it's not gonna cost ten bucks, because it will "work" like a ten-dollar pump. Nope.

So off I went to search online. And guess what? There are a zillion mentions of those cheezy, useless, frustrating items that I listed above (that cost anywhere from nothing to ten bucks) and there are one or two mentions of a machine that would make the owner of a Mercedes dealership hesitate. AND NOTHING IN BETWEEN!!

So I thought - hey! - I'm gonna ask my pals @ M6g for some ideas!

So, gents...what's out there that makes this messy job easier and more efficient? One thing I'd like to see is a rigid plastic or alum tube that has an elbow at the top...with a short piece jutting out at an angle - like 75° or 80°. I've seen a couple of things like that, but it' surprisingly hard to find something that'll work well (and last beyond a single fluid change) Please.
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ronemca

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Nice! Now that's the caliber of device I had in mind! I like that it can be pressurized; that would reduce or eliminate the need to pump it repeatedly. :thumbsup:

I called them to ask if it would be suitable for 75W90 gear oil, and I was told that it should work fine...but -- and I'm paraphrasing here -- the rep. seemed to be warning that I wouldn't want to use it regularly for fluid of that viscosity. And he said that they do not sell anything more "robust".

So - that's not a conclusion; I'm not ruling it out, but I will see if anyone else chimes in here.

Great find, Sir! :cheers:
 
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wildcatgoal

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It'll work up to 140 - one I've used did, anyway. I don't remember if it's the same model number. The one I used was hooked to air, though. I never pumped it.
 

GJarrett

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I wonder if some of the marine / boat oil and gear lube pumps would work.
https://www.westmarine.com/oil-change-pumps

i have the flat tank oil changer and it is fabulous, but I've never tried to suck gear oil with it either - it uses a very small tube. I use the $14 hand pump for gear lube changes. It does work just fine, but I get tired by the time I'm finished using it LOL
 

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ronemca

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I have not been sitting on my hands! Extensive research has revealed the following three units from the same manufacturer:

PBT70910
PBT70913
PBT71196

I called them, and they told me they're discontinuing the first two machines because the internal mechanism does not withstand the pumping of HOT fluids (which the instructions advise against)

All three are intended to be driven with a 3/8" drive ratchet (not included) and all three can also be driven by a drill. But only the third one -- for about $40 more -- comes with the necessary clip-on housing to grip the drill (the other two require the owner to purchase the drill housing separately for around $36)

Aside from the tool attachment, the third unit also has different guts that will withstand the pumping of HOT fluids...which is why the manufacturer is discontinuing the first two.

And -- according to the manufacturer -- the reviewers who complain about leaks have violated the instructions by pumping HOT fluid...which strips the gears...which ruins the integrity of the seal.

Hmmm.
 
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