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Rear bumper gap fix attempt

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SVTinAR

SVTinAR

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I tried a couple duct tape and bailing wire fixes on the bumper gap today.



Gorilla Tape - not a good look - not recommended.:crazy:

Second effort involved the bailing wire. I made a couple aluminum brackets to but down over the top of the outside mounting bolts that secure the exhaust tips to the lower bumper valance.



I found a folded lip above in the body structure that let me thread an 18 ga wire through it and down to the mounting bracket where looped it through and secured it. I nutted it down loosely on the bolt and started twisting the wire with a long 1/4 inch bolt in the middle which took up the slack. The I tightened the nut down to preload the support to the bumper and when I was tight I then finished up twisting the wire until it was picking up the load from the corner of the bumper pretty good.





Here are the before and after photos of the pass side.





I measured the gap with feeler gages just before the turn to the back side and the pass side closed up from.079 in to .037 in.

Here is the driver side before and after.





Not much visual change on this side but it did close up a little. I thought this side looked worse before I started but it measured at .045 inch when I got to this side and closed up to .035 inch. Maybe since I did the pass side first it had already closed up a little as a result.

It still should fit tighter than this and I don't have high hopes this is a permanent improvement as the wire will probably stretch a little with road vibration. Possibly it will hold it and prevent it opening back up again. But I think when I have time to pull the rear bumper completely I may be able to come up with a similar reinforcement. I would need to drill a small hole through the pinch weld and use some all-thread or dowel rod to build a more rigid hanger down to the bracket. Maybe even construct some sort of trapeze with aluminum channel to span across the bottom between exhaust tip brackets.
 

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A noticeable improvement on both sides. Good job!
 

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When I worked on mine in an attempt to fix the gap, I used jacks to raise the rear fascia while I worked it. If you didn't use jacks, it might be worth giving it a shot, as they tighten up the gap nicely.

My fix attempt was only partially successful, and involved using epoxy adhesive where the fascia tap enters the slot in the black plastic piece, behind the taillight. The gap came back but hasn't gotten any worse, hence, I never did a write-up on it. I'll live with it as is....
jack.JPG
seam.JPG
 
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When I worked on mine in an attempt to fix the gap, I used jacks to raise the rear fascia while I worked it. If you didn't use jacks, it might be worth giving it a shot, as they tighten up the gap nicely.

My fix attempt was only partially successful, and involved using epoxy adhesive where the fascia tap enters the slot in the black plastic piece, behind the taillight. The gap came back but hasn't gotten any worse, hence, I never did a write-up on it. I'll live with it as is....
Wow, you did manage to get gap closed up. I did not use a jack - just my shoulder to force up on the bumper. There's still stuff going on up above (clips, tabs, hangers) and some sort of a more permanent fix is definitely going to require complete removal and go from there such as you did.

I've read several comments about part of the reason for the sag is the extra weight of the exhaust tips. Could be - they don't appear that heavy but who knows. I figure if that is a major contributor then this should counter it. Do Mustang GTs have this problem???????

But I'll monitor it for a couple of months and see if it stays pretty stable and if so then go from there. A better fix along these lines is to use a 5/32 or 3/16 piece of all-thread, drill a hole in the pinch weld so a hook in the all-thread will engage it, fabricate a "Z" shaped bracket that the all thread can run through and then it can just be tensioned up by turning a bolt. But need to also fix the things up higher too.
 

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I put this rear valance on my GT when I had it and yes the gap was there after a bit of driving(vibration). Could be the extra weight of the exhaust tips. The whole valance itself is heavier(heavier/thicker plastic) than the stock piece thats on the GT or base Mustangs.
 

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When I worked on mine in an attempt to fix the gap, I used jacks to raise the rear fascia while I worked it. If you didn't use jacks, it might be worth giving it a shot, as they tighten up the gap nicely.

My fix attempt was only partially successful, and involved using epoxy adhesive where the fascia tap enters the slot in the black plastic piece, behind the taillight. The gap came back but hasn't gotten any worse, hence, I never did a write-up on it. I'll live with it as is....
So is second pic after it sagged again? Because that looks pretty good?
 

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That picture is with the jack in place. I was showing how tight you can get the gap with the jack, prior to attempting a fix. Like I stated, my solution just kept my gap from getting worse than it was prior to the attempt.
 

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I tried a couple duct tape and bailing wire fixes on the bumper gap today.



Gorilla Tape - not a good look - not recommended.:crazy:

Second effort involved the bailing wire. I made a couple aluminum brackets to but down over the top of the outside mounting bolts that secure the exhaust tips to the lower bumper valance.



I found a folded lip above in the body structure that let me thread an 18 ga wire through it and down to the mounting bracket where looped it through and secured it. I nutted it down loosely on the bolt and started twisting the wire with a long 1/4 inch bolt in the middle which took up the slack. The I tightened the nut down to preload the support to the bumper and when I was tight I then finished up twisting the wire until it was picking up the load from the corner of the bumper pretty good.





Here are the before and after photos of the pass side.





I measured the gap with feeler gages just before the turn to the back side and the pass side closed up from.079 in to .037 in.

Here is the driver side before and after.





Not much visual change on this side but it did close up a little. I thought this side looked worse before I started but it measured at .045 inch when I got to this side and closed up to .035 inch. Maybe since I did the pass side first it had already closed up a little as a result.

It still should fit tighter than this and I don't have high hopes this is a permanent improvement as the wire will probably stretch a little with road vibration. Possibly it will hold it and prevent it opening back up again. But I think when I have time to pull the rear bumper completely I may be able to come up with a similar reinforcement. I would need to drill a small hole through the pinch weld and use some all-thread or dowel rod to build a more rigid hanger down to the bracket. Maybe even construct some sort of trapeze with aluminum channel to span across the bottom between exhaust tip brackets.
Dan,
I like the result, can you help me understand more clearly how this is working? It seems like the wire is pulling down. The part of that I’m not seeing is how does that close the gap? I would like to give your method a try once I have a clear idea of what it’s actuallt doing. Thank you.
 

tdzee

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.....Do Mustang GTs have this problem???????.....
When I posted my pix upon arrival in late May, many here noted the very tight rear bumper cover gap. Kept in garage, it is never in the sun. One summer day, I parked outside. Upon my return a few hours later, the gap was much bigger.

Note the the relative angle of the bumper cover vs the sheet metal appears to grow. The heat affected it and now mine is much like everyone's. I started looking at all late model Mustangs, and it is a very prevalent issue. The gap on the line parallel to the ground is not bad, but the gap on the upward angle seems to grow with time and these two mating surfaces do not seem parallel. While all of your efforts are of interest, it appears to me that this is just not designed to yield a tight gap. FWIW :shrug:
 

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I used to joke that one of my cars was held together by bailing wire and duct tape. You just totally made that a reality.
 
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Nr.9

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Ford corporate should see this!


They need to issue a fix or upgrade. I love my car but bailing wire and tape??:headbonk:

I would expect that from an old car from the 80's.
 

aham23

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yes the entire S550 platform suffer for horrible panel alignment and panel gaps. especially the rear bumbers.
 

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Dan,
I like the result, can you help me understand more clearly how this is working? It seems like the wire is pulling down. The part of that I’m not seeing is how does that close the gap? I would like to give your method a try once I have a clear idea of what it’s actuallt doing. Thank you.
How is the wire pulling down?? It’s clearly attached to the actual structure of the body and the bottom part is attached to the valance. Think of it being like how an exhaust hanger works.
 

Spartanator

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Had the same issue on my 16 GT with factory bumper/valence, mine came unclipped at the top. Removed tail lights and barely clipped them back.
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