Eco boost at idle stuttering

I had the same issue on mine like this video below...

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Mine got fixed changing out the spark plugs. Haven't had the issue replicate for 1 week now.

I would also suggest bad gas and/or spark plugs. Bad gas can clog up injectors and that happened a lot on my older Mazda running a ford engine.

There are countless other reasons, but those are usually the top culprits. If you are running a high test tune, you are also running the risk of burning out your cat that could cause poor exhaust flow if fuel is burning up in the exhaust without it igniting in the cylinder or a burnt up 02 sensor.

I found a video on youtube boostang23t he had same issue and dealer said it was the fuel injector sensor and fuel vapor hose. I dont much about cars so don’t know about those parts... just thought I share since there was no definitive answer yet. Dealer charged $500 to fix since he was out of warranty.

Resurrecting a dead thread but I did disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and the KAM reset happened as expected. It did resolve all idle and stuttering issues in P or D, I am monitoring my fuel mileage. I just replaced my plugs (didn't resolve) with the NGKs from Adam. My factory gaps were pretty close. After the battery disconnect it has returned yet.

To keep this thread alive... I have reset KAM approximately 500 miles ago, stutter is back, no MPG effects.

EcoBoostang said:

To keep this thread alive... I have reset KAM approximately 500 miles ago, stutter is back, no MPG effects.

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What is KAM? This is an acronym I'm not familiar with, and how does one reset it?

ElAviator72 said:

What is KAM? This is an acronym I'm not familiar with, and how does one reset it?

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Keep Alive Memory. It's the place inside the PCM where performance settings are stored after the car has learned and adjusted itself for awhile. It gets erased (reset) after a battery disconnect or...there's something else that resets it but I can't recall what it is right now.

Mine got resolved. After taking it to the dealer service, it was a bad fuel sensor and vapour hose. Should check that out.

Wow... sounds like EVAP purge valve and low speed fuel pressure sensor? Any chance you could give us more info from the shop record?

Can you post the part numbers that you had repaired/replaced?

EcoBoostang said:

Can you post the part numbers that you had repaired/replaced?

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Let me see if I find my old paperwork. Are you under warranty still?

Not any longer, but if I break down and do it I'd like to be able to post if they resolved it or not. Not to mention the dealership up here is so-so with understanding their customer base and acknowledging that customers do research.

EcoBoostang said:

Not any longer, but if I break down and do it I'd like to be able to post if they resolved it or not. Not to mention the dealership up here is so-so with understanding their customer base and acknowledging that customers do research.

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This is the work order of what they changed.

BoosTang23T said:

This is the work order of what they changed.

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So they did change the LPFS...this was probably the root of your problem!

Low Pressure Fuel Sensor is a must change when rough idle appears. $25 on eBay.
Dirty air filter, fouled spark plugs and bad gas can all contribute too.
These cars will try to compensate the air/fuel/spark when it's not quite right and at a certain point it can't compensate any more.
Typically an error code pops up and you can identify the exact problem but you will start to see the effects of a failing part before the code.