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[?] '18 Intake Manifold on '15-'17

BULL1TT

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Damn, Add me to the broken intake list. I received the intake today with one stud broken off and several of the ribs on the bottom broken off. :mad:
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Kahboom

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2015 Mustang GT intake manifold
TB inlet:. 83.75mm
Runner length: 55.96mm
Runner width: 31.46mm

2018 Mustang GT intake manifold
TB inlet:. 86.55mm
Runner length: 58.24mm
Runner width:. 33.29mm
 

Kahboom

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2018 Manifold might respond better to larger TB. Don't know what the rear of a 90mm throttle body really is but you might be able to get 1-2mm more ported on the TB inlet. Assuming a 90mm goes down slightly smaller like the stock TB does but I don't know since I don't have one or measured one.
 

kwikS550

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Just out driving with the 2018 manifold. Car seems to be throwing a code for the ircv sensor that's left unplugged. I tried switching plugs but it just changed the bank the code was being thrown for.

Can both sides just be wired to the single sensor and it works? Or do you have to swap over the old sensor and plumb it in?

In past posts it seems someone mentioned leaving one unplugged with no code but I guess thats not the case.
 

16s550

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Aren’t the pig tails or mmr lockout and tune to make sure you don’t throw any codes? Also interested if it’s worth swapping or porting the throttle body.
 

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Kahboom

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Just out driving with the 2018 manifold. Car seems to be throwing a code for the ircv sensor that's left unplugged. I tried switching plugs but it just changed the bank the code was being thrown for.

Can both sides just be wired to the single sensor and it works? Or do you have to swap over the old sensor and plumb it in?

In past posts it seems someone mentioned leaving one unplugged with no code but I guess thats not the case.
Not sure, haven't got pigtails to try, sending mine in to Port, no one is really talking about wiring sensor together or Plumbing in another sensor, or if they are tuning it not to be on. No one is talking about it. Most people are locking out the IMRC.
 

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Just out driving with the 2018 manifold. Car seems to be throwing a code for the ircv sensor that's left unplugged. I tried switching plugs but it just changed the bank the code was being thrown for.

Can both sides just be wired to the single sensor and it works? Or do you have to swap over the old sensor and plumb it in?

In past posts it seems someone mentioned leaving one unplugged with no code but I guess thats not the case.

Just so we're clear.. you kept the CMCV solenoids correct? and its still throwing a code?

Or did you remove them?
 

taccone805

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Not sure, haven't got pigtails to try, sending mine in to Port, no one is really talking about wiring sensor together or Plumbing in another sensor, or if they are tuning it not to be on. No one is talking about it. Most people are locking out the IMRC.

the pigtails are a pain the ass
 

kwikS550

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Not sure, haven't got pigtails to try, sending mine in to Port, no one is really talking about wiring sensor together or Plumbing in another sensor, or if they are tuning it not to be on. No one is talking about it. Most people are locking out the IMRC.
Yeah to clarify my plan is to run the FRPP2 tune, so locking/tuning out the IMRCs isn't an option for me.

Just so we're clear.. you kept the CMCV solenoids correct? and its still throwing a code?

Or did you remove them?
Yup, keeping the the IMRCs and trying to get them to operate like factory without CELs on the 18 manifold with the PP2 tune. Everything else on the swap is working (IMRC pigtails wired and functional, evap working) the extra plug is the last thing I need to figure out. I'm slowly shaking it down and am making good progress.

Here's what I've tried so far:

I tried leaving the extra plug unplugged (like previously mentioned in this thread) but it throws a P2011/P2008 code (depending on if you plug in bank 1 or 2). It doesn't always throw the CEL right away, but will show up as a pending code after a short drive. When the car throws a P2011/P2008 code it will drive kind of crappy, feeling flat around 2000-2300rpms. I think it's because whichever bank isn't plugged in will default open while the other IMRC will operate.

Then I tried removing a sensor from the 15-17 manifold and plumbed the vacuum lines in parallel with the single sensor on the 18 manifold. This setup is a little closer as it allows you to plug both sensors in and eliminates the P2011/P2008 codes, and the car feels MUCH better with this setup than the previous setup. The 2000-2300rpm flat/surgy feeling is gone and the top end feels awesome BUT it still throws a P2006 code. I believe the code is because this setup doesn't allow the ECU to either control or sense both IMRCs independently.

I'm pretty sure my next setup will work with no CELs. It's nothing ground breaking, I just think the IMRCs need to be plumbed the same way as on a factory 15-17 manifold (independently) to work and not throw CELs. With any luck I'll be able to test this setup out and report back tonight.

For all of you out there considering moving to a 2018 manifold I can confirm it makes a noticeable difference. The mid-range feels about the same as the factory manifold but around ~5500rpms the power starts to swell and it pulls much harder all the way to redline (7250rpms in my case) which comes fast.

Anecdotally the car seems to sound slightly throatier sounding. :headbang:
 

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The part # is jr3z-9424-a ?
 

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Got mine today - appears to be damage free, though one side of the box was caved in... Install and Lund revision time! Still debating on IMRCs, but based on this thread, seems like it's easier to just delete them w/out much loss. It'd be really interesting to see results with the IMRCs working. This car is my daily, so more low end is a nice thing. :)
 

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Where is best place to get mmr lockout kit ?
 

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