DIY Whipple on a budget (of sorts).

Burkey · Apr 18, 2018

Flying Fiz said:
Hey Burkey

Are you also going to upgrade the drive shafts? I understand for the Roush and Harrop stage 1 SC's its not required, but I assume your going well past that in HP gains.

Funny you should ask.... that was the next thing I was going to mention :lol:
I installed “The Driveshaft Shop” (DSS) 800hp shafts a few months back.
Cost me $1500-$1600 landed, via eBay. (Ebay shipping kicks arse)

I actually had a fault with one of the nuts which trashed the thread at the hub end. Contacted DSS, parts were sent IMMEDIATELY, arriving at my door in less than a week from first contact. EXCELLENT customer service, highly recommended.

I chose 800hp axles because they get heavier and heavier as you step up in hp.
If reciprocating mass is the enemy of speed, big axles are my enemy. The increase in unsprung mass is also something to consider.

The DSS axles use Porsche 930 CV joints right up until a certain hp, at which point they change the CV. My theory is that if I break them, I’ll upgrade them again, retaining my old CV joints. DSS say that the ratings are quite conservative. We shall see.

For those playing at home, do you need heavy duty axles?

Does your car wheelhop? If yes, then possibly.

Are you launching hard on the strip with ultra-sticky drag tyres, then yes, it’s highly likely.

If you’re just having a play on the roads, using steel belted radials, probably not but the “shit happens” rule can change all of that in an instant I suppose :shrug:

Flying Fiz · Apr 18, 2018

Already installed, man you are the DIY Guru.

What you say as to needing them all makes perfect sense.

Cheers,

Burkey · Apr 18, 2018

Flying Fiz said:
Already installed, man you are the DIY Guru.

What you say as to needing them all makes perfect sense.

Cheers,

Dunno bout “guru” mate.. I’m still learning, just like the everybody else :cheers:

Burkey · Apr 18, 2018

This ones going to be lengthy and boring sorry.
If you’re not planning a fuel-pump upgrade, save yourself 5 minutes (or more) of your life and skip it.
For those who ARE.....

Pictured is the stock pump once removed from the pump housing and the Deatschwerks 415LPH pump fitted to the housing (sort of). Yes, it looks terrible....

Some back-story:

As mentioned earlier, Lund insisted that I either go a “boost-a-pump” (BAP) or, swap out the pump to make it work. Prior to the release of the DW400 there wasn’t much to choose from. Most guys opted for the BAP route.
I elected NOT to go with the BAP because the sparky in me tells me that running a motor at a higher voltage isn’t brilliant. The nail in the coffin for the BAP was when I realised that the DW400 was cheaper.

So, having never undertaken an “in-tank” fuel pump install, I felt it best to grab a second-hand assembly for play time. Turned out to be a good idea.

The DW400 is far from a “drop in” replacement. The housing needed significant reworking to make the pump fit. Yeah, I know it looks like a shitty job.
Take note of the flare in the base of the stock pump. The DW pump doesn’t follow that profile.
The DW pump is actually as large in diameter as the base of the stock pump.
Removal of material is the only way to make it fit, but then it’s too loose...(you need to see the stock housing to understand what’s going on sorry)
Careful placement of cable ties ensure the pump can’t spin and is secure within the housing (the final ties aren’t installed yet).

I’ll finish the pump off once I get a non-return valve sorted. I don’t fancy spending extra time cranking the car to prime the fuel. :crazy:

GT 550 · Apr 18, 2018

Awesome work Burkey, kudos to you for giving it a go.

Burkey · Apr 18, 2018

GT 550 said:
Awesome work Burkey, kudos to you for giving it a go.

What could possibly go wrong? :headbonk:

FMGTV8 · Apr 18, 2018

Burkey said:
This ones going to be lengthy and boring sorry.
If you’re not planning a fuel-pump upgrade, save yourself 5 minutes (or more) of your life and skip it.
For those who ARE.....

Pictured is the stock pump once removed from the pump housing and the Deatschwerks 415LPH pump fitted to the housing (sort of). Yes, it looks terrible....

Some back-story:

As mentioned earlier, Lund insisted that I either go a “boost-a-pump” (BAP) or, swap out the pump to make it work. Prior to the release of the DW400 there wasn’t much to choose from. Most guys opted for the BAP route.
I elected NOT to go with the BAP because the sparky in me tells me that running a motor at a higher voltage isn’t brilliant. The nail in the coffin for the BAP was when I realised that the DW400 was cheaper.

So, having never undertaken an “in-tank” fuel pump install, I felt it best to grab a second-hand assembly for play time. Turned out to be a good idea.

The DW400 is far from a “drop in” replacement. The housing needed significant reworking to make the pump fit. Yeah, I know it looks like a shitty job.
Take note of the flare in the base of the stock pump. The DW pump doesn’t follow that profile.
The DW pump is actually as large in diameter as the base of the stock pump.
Removal of material is the only way to make it fit, but then it’s too loose...(you need to see the stock housing to understand what’s going on sorry)
Careful placement of cable ties ensure the pump can’t spin and is secure within the housing (the final ties aren’t installed yet).

I’ll finish the pump off once I get a non-return valve sorted. I don’t fancy spending extra time cranking the car to prime the fuel.

Hi Burkey.
Can I suggest you try and use a hose clamp to mount the new pump.
Almost all cable ties lose tension when immersed in petrol... I know this from experience when changing fuel pumps :cheers:

Burkey · Apr 18, 2018

FMGTV8 said:
Hi Burkey.
Can I suggest you try and use a hose clamp to mount the new pump.
Almost all cable ties lose tension when immersed in petrol... I know this from experience when changing fuel pumps ( I am an auto sparky) :cheers:

Agreed.
The current setup is just to fill the voids left by the removal of material.
Hose clamp/s for SURE! :cheers:
[MENTION=26801]FMGTV8[/MENTION], your thoughts on running the factory pump at a higher voltage?

FMGTV8 · Apr 18, 2018

Yeh Unsure.
The yanks seem to have those setups with not many problems as noted on this forum.
Most pumps do have voltage drop but for general use it is not a problem, But, when doing engine mods fuel has to be up to spec.
I guess you'd need to measure both pressure and not sure how volume, to see if pump is OK.
Maybe Whipple can provide that or some info for you. :cheers:

King3o0o · Apr 18, 2018

hey burkey, you help me out abit in fb with my pmas install + lund.

just wanna say thanks again.

also your a mad man for attempting this .... an intake took me 2 hours..

imagine me trying to install a supercharger LOL.

Burkey · Apr 19, 2018

King3o0o said:
hey burkey, you help me out abit in fb with my pmas install + lund.

just wanna say thanks again.

also your a mad man for attempting this .... an intake took me 2 hours..

imagine me trying to install a supercharger LOL.

Happy to be of help :cheers:

Burkey · Apr 19, 2018

Here’s something for anyone running an open top CAI....

Most of the open tops run a pretty shitty heat-shield. When PMAS redesigned theirs, they probably took the prize for “worst on the market” but they’re forgiven cos the actual intake itself rocks.
Anyways, I thought I’d take a few moments to see what Whipple have produced with their open top (tuner kit runs open top, complete kit uses closed top cos 50 state legal and all that).

As you can see in this pic, the bottom of the shroud is completely open to the engine bay.

Burkey · Apr 19, 2018

As is the rear section.

Burkey · Apr 19, 2018

Oh, and it seems that the top seal wouldn’t be able to bridge the gap to the hood liner either.....

Note how I’ve greased up some cable-tie off cuts, stuck them to the shield, closed the bonnet and then worked out the gap based on that.
I couldn’t think of an easier way to do it. If you have one, please share.

The fix will be as simple as lining the inside of the shield with some adhesive neoprene to prevent heat transfer into the compartment and probably some plumbers lagging (the black stuff) rolled over the top edge of the shield to make it seal to the bonnet properly. I’ll be leaving it open on the inner guard side simply because it’s a good potential source of clean air.

Whether this matters or not or even if it’s going to work, I can’t say for sure.
I’ll be sharing the pics of the final result once it’s done. :cheers:

King3o0o · Apr 20, 2018

so when are you coming to sydney to help me fix me pmas xD

DIY Whipple on a budget (of sorts).

Burkey

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Flying Fiz

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Burkey

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GT 550

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