What did you do to your GT350 today?

Zitrosounds said:

Tq them to????

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The torque spec is 89 in-lbs (7.4 ft-lbs). Might be hard to get a torque wrench on some of them, so just pretty snug by hand should do it for the ones you can't use a torque wrench on.

This actually begs the question, as I am reading the install for my Steeda suspension parts many are torqued at different lbs., so after the install need a list of which ones were torqued and at what setting, then figure out how often do u need to retorque them. But what about factory stuff that wasn’t changed. What needs retorquing? We know wheels and oil filter.
What else are we missing?

GT Pony said:

The torque spec is 89 in-lbs (7.4 ft-lbs). Might be hard to get a torque wrench on some of them, so just pretty snug by hand should do it for the ones you can't use a torque wrench on.

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I have the manual and I am aware of the tq spec. I have also had both valve covers open and used a combination of extension and elbows to reach all the hardware. Easy peasy! The question was posed to the op. Making sure he/she is actually using a tq wrench and re-torquing not building on the present tq.

Wine dude said:

This actually begs the question, as I am reading the install for my Steeda suspension parts many are torqued at different lbs., so after the install need a list of which ones were torqued and at what setting, then figure out how often do u need to retorque them. But what about factory stuff that wasn’t changed. What needs retorquing? We know wheels and oil filter.
What else are we missing?

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We tq check and re-tq lots on aircraft hardware due to the properties of the materials used. I am not aware of any hardware on the GT350 that requires a tq-check or re-tq except for lug nuts.

Zitrosounds said:

I have the manual and I am aware of the tq spec. I have also had both valve covers open and used a combination of extension and elbows to reach all the hardware. Easy peasy! The question was posed to the op. Making sure he/she is actually using a tq wrench and re-torquing not building on the present tq.

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If you throw a torque wrench on there and it takes a half to full turn to get to torque it was effectively at zero torque anyway, IMO. If the wrench clicks immediately then you'd back it off and retorque. All of mine (but one bolt) took at least 1/4 turn to reach torque and most were a half turn and some were a full turn.

I had seen posts from other owners that they were getting leaks from the valve covers due to the bolts backing out. I figured I should check them since it seemed easy enough. Besides the lower rear bolt on the passenger side it was a pretty easy job.

More like this past week end but I installed a pre-cut Xpel bumper and headlight protective film kit on mine. First effort with applying this stuff over this large a surface although I've done lots of headlights, door sills, and rocker panels before. Not exactly up there with the wonder and mystery of paintless dent repair but it does take some patience and I now see why the labor is so much on installing this stuff. Mine was cut for the racing stripes so the pieces were somewhat manageable in size on the bumper front and wrap-around, but it still took 3 hours per each side to install. And then a couple or three hours more for the misc pieces between the racing stripes, below the lower intake and the lights. Looks good with some small bubbles but they seem to be already making their way out and getting smaller.

Next I'm going to do the front of the hood, front of front fenders and the rear flares. This stuff is expensive so I decided to split it up in two orders of about $500 each to make sure I didn't get in too far over my head.

Gotta love fall colors... had to take some pics

The technicians a the Ford Performance Racing School said they have to retorque lots of things as everything seems to vibrate loose.

So now we need to know what to re torque, to what lbs, cause it seems everything is different and how often do we check?

Full drivetrain fluid flush today. Fresh oil, Redline oil for the diff with Ford friction modifier, BG Synchro Shift II in the trans. Shifts better, I think, but it was warm today when I finished up the work. Let's see how it does on a cold morning.

DocWalt said:

Full drivetrain fluid flush today. Fresh oil, Redline oil for the diff with Ford friction modifier, BG Synchro Shift II in the trans. Shifts better, I think, but it was warm today when I finished up the work. Let's see how it does on a cold morning.

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I need to do this, any pointers from your experience?

DocWalt said:

Full drivetrain fluid flush today. Fresh oil, Redline oil for the diff with Ford friction modifier, BG Synchro Shift II in the trans. Shifts better, I think, but it was warm today when I finished up the work. Let's see how it does on a cold morning.

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How many miles on the car or track days do you have on it that you needed to change all those fluids?

EF300 said:

I need to do this, any pointers from your experience?

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Get the car level Really, it's pretty straight forward.

The trans is easy, just top it up, run the engine and let the clutch out in neutral to pump the fluid through the cooler, then top it off.

You'll need ForScan or something else (IDS tool) to run the rear diff pump, but it's the same idea with topping it off and running the pump, etc.

loco_GT350 said:

How many miles on the car or track days do you have on it that you needed to change all those fluids?

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~9200 miles & a bunch of autocross. No track time yet :(

Besides the engine oil I didn't NEED to do anything. I was tired of the 1-2 shift being SUPER notchy when cold (aka driving to work in the morning) and hopefully this fixes it. The diff lube was nasty when it came out and the fill plug (magnetic) had tons of metal dust on it. Typical break in wear and I didn't want that in there if I could avoid it.

Got it, makes sense..

Keep us posted on the shifter. I live in a warm climate area so I i don’t the cold issue but I do notice that sometimes my tranny is a little noisy, kinda has a whine to it. I seem to notice it every now and then. I am now trying to figure out what the conditions are when I hear it (i.e. outside temp, duration of driving, driving conditions, radio off, etc.). I listed radio off because I am not sure if it is there all the time because I usually have the radio on albeit kinda low as I like to listen to the exhast.

Went to a meet last night. Then we went out to Mexico for some high speed passes. Was fun. Have not done that in a while. What I was happy about was that Sasha held her own against many cars I thought I would be crushed by in a high speed run.

Very nice stuff, Vipers, inc a ACR, Vettes, Supras, Camaro's your variants of Hellcats, and of course stangs N/A and FI. Was one other gt350 that was stock who of course was asking me a zillion great questions after he saw some of my runs.

All there agreed that my car sounded the best running. I had a lot of people tell me the car sounded bad ass, exp at high RPM shifting. :love: All in all it was fun, and great that there were no mishaps and everyone went home with no issues.