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Auto-blip install question ...

shelbyman

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Ok I'm curious if anyone has trashed the supplied fold over connectors and gone with a more substantial means of wiring up the unit such as using solder and shrink tubing?? Would that be just too hard to do considering the location of the wiring being under the dash and tough to get at? :shrug:
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cking

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If you remove the seat lay blanket out on floor and you put feet up on back seat, you can get good access but best have helper because getting in out is not fun. You can screw up those displacement clips easily and I don't like way they chewup factory wire. How ever its hard strip the insulation off small wires and not nick them.
 

shelbyman

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If you remove the seat lay blanket out on floor and you put feet up on back seat, you can get good access but best have helper because getting in out is not fun. You can screw up those displacement clips easily and I don't like way they chewup factory wire. How ever its hard strip the insulation off small wires and not nick them.
Good point about striping the insulation off the existing wiring being a hard job to do well even if its on your work bench...and it wouldn't be that in the car :doh: I'll probably go with the wiring in the kit and just be very careful with the clips. Not sure there is a good way around nicking up the factory wiring as you do have to get to the copper to make contact. I guess if you ever took off the unit you could put some rescue tape around the nicked area.
 

cking

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The clips are setup to accept insulated 1/4" spade connectors, so removing is just unplug.

I usual use wire gauge notched strippers to cut the insulation and wiggle it a little to make tiny space, then I insert the wire at the slit point into the metal v slot on T connector and get started with my finger then bring cover over and squeeze with pliers. If it was exterior I fill it with dielectric they sell to use when using aluminum wiring designed to reduce oxidation keep moisture out. But I haven't been under the dash upside down yet, but I think it will be easier than cut/soldier
 
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shelbyman

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The clips are setup to accept insulated 1/4" spade connectors, so removing is just unplug.

I usual use wire gauge notched strippers to cut the insulation and wiggle it a little to make tiny space, then I insert the wire at the slit point into the metal v slot on T connector and get started with my finger then bring cover over and squeeze with pliers. If it was exterior I fill it with dielectric they sell to use when using aluminum wiring designed to reduce oxidation keep moisture out. But I haven't been under the dash upside down yet, but I think it will be easier than cut/soldier
Ok I think I get what you are saying you do. Use a wire stripper to just barely cut the insulation...then try and pull the cut insulation apart a small amount to get to the copper wire and then put the supplied connector on so it gets a good contact and then you squeeze shut with pliers. Do you know if the connectors in the kit are designed to make the cut through the insulation on their own when squeezing with pliers? :shrug: Thanks
 

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Has everyone that installed the Autoblip put it on a factory wiring harness??? I installed mine on my FRPP 5.0L Coyote wiring harness (M-6017-504V)...it has two clutch pedal sensors, each w/two wires. Since the colors matched the bottom sensor and the intructions show connecting to the bottom sensor, that is where I put it. Well, needless to say that it didn't work...it actually eventually killed the accelerator pedal after a couple of turns. I'm not going to give up on it... just wondering if anyone else has experienced the same thing?
 

cking

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Ok I think I get what you are saying you do. Use a wire stripper to just barely cut the insulation...then try and pull the cut insulation apart a small amount to get to the copper wire and then put the supplied connector on so it gets a good contact and then you squeeze shut with pliers. Do you know if the connectors in the kit are designed to make the cut through the insulation on their own when squeezing with pliers? :shrug: Thanks
They are suppose to cut through but I believe thats where get screwed up sometimes they twist rather cut.
 

shelbyman

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Has everyone that installed the Autoblip put it on a factory wiring harness??? I installed mine on my FRPP 5.0L Coyote wiring harness (M-6017-504V)...it has two clutch pedal sensors, each w/two wires. Since the colors matched the bottom sensor and the intructions show connecting to the bottom sensor, that is where I put it. Well, needless to say that it didn't work...it actually eventually killed the accelerator pedal after a couple of turns. I'm not going to give up on it... just wondering if anyone else has experienced the same thing?
I printed out the install instructions and noticed it was a bit unclear on what color FORD wire to attach the Blip wire to. I ended up sending a question to Auto Blip to ask about this situation. Waiting to hear back. I sure don't want to install the clip on the wrong wire. Planning to install it this weekend. If anyone reading this and has installed it successfully can feel free to comment or offer advice. Thanks
 

shelbyman

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Ok I thought I would give you my feedback on how the install went for me...well my friend that actually did it as hes much younger and more capable than I am. We identified the Ford wires based on the pictures in the instructions. The plastic clips in the kit went on correctly and pierced the insulation as evidenced by the continuity test we ran after connecting up all the wires. I would HIGHLY recommend everyone run a continuity test once you have the wires all connected.

I want to tell you of a problem we had when we first ran the calibration test. Went through all the steps in correct order but somewhere along the way we must have done something wrong. We got a very faint flickering "Blip" led at the conclusion. We should have stopped right there as we should have gotten a solid "Status" led. But we made the mistake of seeing if the car would work on the street because we thought we were ok...we weren't!! A short spin around the block produced a dead throttle pedal...and a number of engine codes. :doh: Luckily we made it back to the shop safely. I placed a call to Andres and this was on a Saturday...and thought I would get a call back on Monday...but I got a return call in a fairly short time. Amazingly helpful and super nice guy...talk about wonderful customer support...:clap2: Andres gave us some things to check out which we did and then went back and re-calibrated the unit and this time we got the solid "Status" led we were wanting to see. :thumbsup: So back out for the test drive and bingo it worked as advertised so we knew we had it all wired up correctly. What a relief to say the least.

I would say the one KEY thing to get right is the solid "STATUS" led once you've completed your calibration...if you don't... check everything for continuity and do it again.

Ok that was our installation story. I would like to ask those of you that have used it on the track what did you find was a good starting/ending point for the Duration and Delay settings? Just wanted to know what your experience has been. :shrug: Thanks much and than Andres for the outstanding customer service. :thumbsup:
 

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Ok I thought I would give you my feedback on how the install went for me...well my friend that actually did it as hes much younger and more capable than I am. We identified the Ford wires based on the pictures in the instructions. The plastic clips in the kit went on correctly and pierced the insulation as evidenced by the continuity test we ran after connecting up all the wires. I would HIGHLY recommend everyone run a continuity test once you have the wires all connected.

I want to tell you of a problem we had when we first ran the calibration test. Went through all the steps in correct order but somewhere along the way we must have done something wrong. We got a very faint flickering "Blip" led at the conclusion. We should have stopped right there as we should have gotten a solid "Status" led. But we made the mistake of seeing if the car would work on the street because we thought we were ok...we weren't!! A short spin around the block produced a dead throttle pedal...and a number of engine codes. :doh: Luckily we made it back to the shop safely. I placed a call to Andres and this was on a Saturday...and thought I would get a call back on Monday...but I got a return call in a fairly short time. Amazingly helpful and super nice guy...talk about wonderful customer support...:clap2: Andres gave us some things to check out which we did and then went back and re-calibrated the unit and this time we got the solid "Status" led we were wanting to see. :thumbsup: So back out for the test drive and bingo it worked as advertised so we knew we had it all wired up correctly. What a relief to say the least.

I would say the one KEY thing to get right is the solid "STATUS" led once you've completed your calibration...if you don't... check everything for continuity and do it again.

Ok that was our installation story. I would like to ask those of you that have used it on the track what did you find was a good starting/ending point for the Duration and Delay settings? Just wanted to know what your experience has been. :shrug: Thanks much and than Andres for the outstanding customer service. :thumbsup:
So what was the issue that caused the faulty status led?
 

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Rimox51

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those clips suck. I had to expose the wires for a good reliable connection. Its tight but be patient.
 

shelbyman

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So what was the issue that caused the faulty status led?
That is a good question and it wasn't exactly clear. We did not find something that was not connected properly. Could have been as simple as an issue with the calibration sequence we went through. We wish we would have found something concrete. We went through the calibration sequence again after the rechecking continuity of all wires from the clip on connectors all the way to the soldered connections inside the controller box. No issues found. We must have got the sequencing correct the second time around is all I can think of. :shrug:
 

shelbyman

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those clips suck. I had to expose the wires for a good reliable connection. Its tight but be patient.
Just wanted to reply to your comment. We installed the connectors as the instructions indicated and got continuity on all connections. I'm glad we didn't have to try to expose wire on those totally small gauge wires in the factory loom.
 
 




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