Rear gear noise after bmr cradle lock out and steeda black differential bushings inst

So I installed bmr cradle lock out on my vert without the red metal very pieces because they won't fit due to sub frame bracing along with steeda black differential bushings.

With top down things are fine. Top up around 40mph plus I hear a loud whirring from the rear almost positive is the rear differential...

Im thinking of removing the rear black bushings and installing red and leave front bushings black. Fronts were a bitch because I had to drop the entire rear cradle to get to them.

Any issues if I do this and do you think it will quiet the howling? I get this is the price we pay for performance bUT I want to keep my car refined. It just doesn't feel refined to me sounding like this.

The reason I installed this in the first place is because I noticed my dss drive shaft somehow rubbed on my e brake bolt and I wanted to put a stop to that.

Leave it as is, and deal with the whirring.

I say this, knowing your current and future power and goals.

BMR Tech said:

Leave it as is, and deal with the whirring.

I say this, knowing your current and future power and goals.

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Kelly I need to meet up with you when you get some free time. Maybe the vert transfers the noise more than a coup. I just hate the howl. Try to ignore it but hard to. It is definitely better since installing the royal purple differentisl fluid that's for sure. But still pretty loud

It is the differential bushings that are transferring the gear noise from the differential to the chassis. I've done all of my rear mods 1 at a time so that I could observe any changes and understand which mod caused them. I don't know how Steeda can call this mod one that causes no increase in NVH. And I agree, the noise sucks for a street driven car, and mine is not a daily driver. I took the read poly dif mounts out and left the fronts in and the noise is way less and what I feel is at an acceptable level. You can take the rears out without dropping the subframe if you use an open end wrench rather that a socket for the last ~1/2 of the bolt removal. I left the fronts poly bushing in as opposed to the rears since most of the movement under power is at the front of the dif, not the rear.

Sam said:

It is the differential bushings that are transferring the gear noise from the differential to the chassis. I've done all of my rear mods 1 at a time so that I could observe any changes and understand which mod caused them. I don't know how Steeda can call this mod one that causes no increase in NVH. And I agree, the noise sucks for a street driven car, and mine is not a daily driver. I took the read poly dif mounts out and left the fronts in and the noise is way less and what I feel is at an acceptable level. You can take the rears out without dropping the subframe if you use an open end wrench rather that a socket for the last ~1/2 of the bolt removal. I left the fronts poly bushing in as opposed to the rears since most of the movement under power is at the front of the dif, not the rear.

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I'm going to try this. Thanks!

I love the whine, I can actually fell the car working and know when the throttle is working!!

I love the whine too. Whine = race car!!

Whine = win!

Mine actually got quieter, not sure what that indicates. I'm using the BMR BK054 kit with billet inserts, I think they're billet?

op [MENTION=17037]doodguy[/MENTION] have you noticed a thud/thunk sound after the inserts ?

fifteen5oh said:

op [MENTION=17037]doodguy[/MENTION] have you noticed a thud/thunk sound after the inserts ?

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No thud at all

fifteen5oh said:

op [MENTION=17037]doodguy[/MENTION] have you noticed a thud/thunk sound after the inserts ?

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I had a pretty loud clunk when loading or unloading the driveline. I traced it back to the front Steeda inserts.

I had to back the torque off of the short bolts that hold the insert in so the end was not touching end of the bolt from the other side the holds the diff. If you've installed them this should make sense.

I've thought about pulling the diff bolts (since they are easier to get out) and gluing a small piece of rubber or derlin to the end of it so the bolts can't touch.

Coaster said:

I had a pretty loud clunk when loading or unloading the driveline. I traced it back to the front Steeda inserts.

I had to back the torque off of the short bolts that hold the insert in so the end was not touching end of the bolt from the other side the holds the diff. If you've installed them this should make sense.

I've thought about pulling the diff bolts (since they are easier to get out) and gluing a small piece of rubber or derlin to the end of it so the bolts can't touch.

Click to expand...

This clunk you had did it only happen on hard downshifts when you did not rev match perfectly?

After a track day my car now has a clunk/click noise that is only when downshifting or pulling off harsh. I can replicate the issue by pulling forward and then selecting reverse to load and unload the driveline.

Maybe it is these bolts causing me same issue?

Gibbo205 said:

This clunk you had did it only happen on hard downshifts when you did not rev match perfectly?

After a track day my car now has a clunk/click noise that is only when downshifting or pulling off harsh. I can replicate the issue by pulling forward and then selecting reverse to load and unload the driveline.

Maybe it is these bolts causing me same issue?

Click to expand...

Yeah it was any time the drive train was transiting from loaded to unloaded or the other way around.

Coaster said:

Yeah it was any time the drive train was transiting from loaded to unloaded or the other way around.

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Yeah mine is not everytime, only aggressive down shifting or when pulling off hard. Sounds like a loud clunk/clank when loaded, here is a video:

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It happens towards the end of both videos.