track questions

I am going to be purchasing a GT PP1 soon and will be doing some track days with it. I have a couple questions.
1 Are catch cans needed?
2 I don't think this engine is dry sump so what do you all use to stop oil starvation?

Will be replacing the break fluid, suggested pads?
Anything else I need to know before i head out?

Thanks,
-David

dmann said:

I am going to be purchasing a GT PP1 soon and will be doing some track days with it. I have a couple questions.
1 Are catch cans needed?
2 I don't think this engine is dry sump so what do you all use to stop oil starvation?

Will be replacing the break fluid, suggested pads?
Anything else I need to know before i head out?

Thanks,
-David

Click to expand...

Catch cans are not needed but doesn't hurt to have one on the passenger side, the driver side doesn't pass much it seems. In fact not much is needed on a PP1 for track use, if you don't exceed 20 minute sessions and don't go balls out 100%, keep it at 85-90% and it's fine. Even the stock brake fluid is fine, it's a high quality Pentosin product. I find the stock PP pads are very good on track, they last well when driven at this level.



There is no oil starvation problem with a full oil fill unless you make serious mods and get the G loads way up above what the stock car can do, then you might want to look at a GT350 pan. But once you're at that level you're into a different ball game and all the above does not apply at all, you need to apply race level maintenance which is far beyond what HPDE type track days are.



You're going to want to change all your fluids regularly. Read the stuff in the manual I think it's page 13 about what Ford says on that topic.

JohnD said:

Catch cans are not needed but doesn't hurt to have one on the passenger side, the driver side doesn't pass much it seems. In fact not much is needed on a PP1 for track use, if you don't exceed 20 minute sessions and don't go balls out 100%, keep it at 85-90% and it's fine. Even the stock brake fluid is fine, it's a high quality Pentosin product. I find the stock PP pads are very good on track, they last well when driven at this level.



There is no oil starvation problem with a full oil fill unless you make serious mods and get the G loads way up above what the stock car can do, then you might want to look at a GT350 pan. But once you're at that level you're into a different ball game and all the above does not apply at all, you need to apply race level maintenance which is far beyond what HPDE type track days are.



You're going to want to change all your fluids regularly. Read the stuff in the manual I think it's page 13 about what Ford says on that topic.

Click to expand...

Thanks, Good feedback!
By mods do you mean track alignment and R compund tires?

dmann said:

I am going to be purchasing a GT PP1 soon and will be doing some track days with it. I have a couple questions.
1 Are catch cans needed?
2 I don't think this engine is dry sump so what do you all use to stop oil starvation?

Will be replacing the break fluid, suggested pads?
Anything else I need to know before i head out?

Thanks,
-David

Click to expand...

What year car are you planning to purchase? What Trans?

2018 manual

dmann said:

2018 manual

Click to expand...

2018 GT use a derivative of the GT350 pan and pump so you should not need to upgrade the pump or pan unless you are planning on real race conditions. The 2018 GT use a 10qt pan but use the old radiator coolant based oil cooler. This will be the weak link for oil cooling, having 10 qts will help extend the run time on track but if you make use of the 7500 rpm redline you will still have oil cooling issues that will require a larger oil to air cooler and the removal of the coolant based cooler. This does present a problem to daily driving in a colder climate, so some thought will need to be made about the best solution.

If you run more than 20 min or do back to back sessions you will need to deal with the transmission temps and the rear end temps by adding dedicated coolers, but even the 20 min sessions will require different fluids and changing them more often.

Brake cooling ducts and backing plates will be required for the front brakes and will be helpful for the rears but are much less effective due to the rotor design. Pads and fluids will be a must for anyone who is running more than a street tire.

Catch cans for me are a must for both sides of the motor, they are cheap insurance against oil induced knock. I can think of no good results from having oil or oil vapor enter the intake and that is what will happen if you do not have an effective catch can. You can also gauge the health of an engine by monitoring the catch cans for how much oil is accumulating in the canister. We where able to save a motor that was apparently running fine to the owner but had 2 pistons with cracked ring lands. At high rpm the drivers side catch can would fill with oil in 2 to 3 20 min sessions. Without a catch can the oil would have been consumed and we would not have had an important clue to solving the problem. We did a compression test on the drivers side and found the two weak pistons and were able to repair the engine prior to a complete piston failure, saving the rods, crank, heads, and block from potential damage.

The 2015+ cars are reliable to track and with the improvements made to the 2018 Coyote the cars should be even more reliable and faster, just make sure to up the maintenance interval and have fun.

Dave

dmann said:

Thanks, Good feedback!
By mods do you mean track alignment and R compund tires?

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No, far beyond that, I mean serious dedicated track suspension type stuff, coilovers or adjustable struts/shocks, upgraded springs, spherical joints everywhere, delrin/alumium bushings, upgraded bars, etc. That would include R tires. Putting R compound tires on a stock PP1 probably would not work out well, stock spring and shock rates are not going to be good for that much grip. Maybe a 200 TW tire at most with stock suspension.


As far as braking cooling goes, I disagree with the need for additional cooling, IF you keep it at 85-90% maximum and 20 minute sessions you should not have cooling issues with PP brakes. I run my car on a track that is very hard on brakes and have not experienced cooling issues, no rotor issues, no pad issues. But I have never been hard on brakes. YMMV. It's all up to the driver. For an average HPDE track day I have no issues with the stock brakes.


You also should change your trans and diff fluid for the BG stuff prior to your track day.

Good to hear.
thanks for all the info!

If you plan to track the car, why not spring for the more track oriented PP2?

Grintch said:

If you plan to track the car, why not spring for the more track oriented PP2?

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Mainly cost. I just came from a new viper because I had a hard time justifying its cost and its purpose. So, I am opting for something fun yet a lot cheaper.

I orginally wanted to start with a plain jane GT and mod as needed but then it made sense to just find a bargained PP1. PP2 is just another level of $$ being that its just now coming out there are no discounted cars.