Steeda Camber Plates Install Question

TNcoupe · Apr 7, 2017

Gnfanatic said:
I dont see how a socket would have a different rating then a crowfoot. If an extension had to be used then I understand.

With a crows foot you are affectively changing the length of the torque wrench. The torque wrench is rated from the center of the drive socket to the end of the handle. A crows foot adds length to that and throws off the rating.

mikes2017gt · Apr 7, 2017

Hmm. I was planning on using CF wrenches to tighten/torque the nuts. So what would that formula be? I mean, the torque wrench would be offset from the nut centerline by maybe 1" ? If you want to torque the nut to 19 ft/lbs, what would you set the torque wrench to? Less than 19, obviously...but how much less? There's always a gotcha and that's how I developed my OCD.

[ame]

jbailer · Apr 7, 2017

TNcoupe said:
@jbailer install was super easy especially if it is going onto Steeda dampers. Hardest part was holding the damper shaft with a wrench to tighten down the retainer nut. The alignment went easy also. Got it close on static camber (with a Longacre digital) before I drove it to Firestone for the toe alignment. Their readings on camber came out the same as mine and they set the toe and checked everything else. I have mine set at -2.2 all the time as I dont DD the car.

It helps to have someone help you as you guide the strut assembly up into place to ensure you dont bang up the threads on the camber plate studs as they pass through the shock tower holes. As far as paint scratched around the nut areas, I didnt pay attention to it because racecar.

I just looked up what a Longacre digital is and I won't have that available. Any recommendation on how to eyeball it or adjust it with layman's tools enough to drive it to the alignment shop?

jbailer · Apr 7, 2017

mikes2017gt said:
Hmm. I was planning on using CF wrenches to tighten/torque the nuts. So what would that formula be? I mean, the torque wrench would be offset from the nut centerline by maybe 1" ? If you want to torque the nut to 19 ft/lbs, what would you set the torque wrench to? Less than 19, obviously...but how much less? There's always a gotcha and that's how I developed my OCD.

I found this: http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/torque_wrench_1.htm

jbailer · Apr 7, 2017

Looking into it a little further, I see that you can actually connect the crowsfoot to the torque wrench at a 90* angle which doesn't increase the length of the wrench and won't change the torque.

mikes2017gt · Apr 7, 2017

jbailer said:
I found this: http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/torque_wrench_1.htm

You get The Hero of the Day Award! :cheers:

TNcoupe · Apr 7, 2017

jbailer said:
I found this: http://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/torque_wrench_1.htm

Good find. We have something like that in a procedure here at work but I can't post it. The only way to eyeball it is stand up a level or hang a string and plumb bob from the fender edge and get both sides equal. You won't hurt anything just getting it close to drive it a short distance to the alignment shop.

mikes2017gt · Apr 7, 2017

jbailer said:
Looking into it a little further, I see that you can actually connect the crowsfoot to the torque wrench at a 90* angle which doesn't increase the length of the wrench and won't change the torque.

Not sure what you mean. Pic? It does make sense that using a CF wrench effectively lengthens the lever (torque wrench handle) you're using to tighten the nut....

TNcoupe · Apr 7, 2017

Just hold it with a wrench and tighten the crap out of it. Thats what I did, my ancestry is German so its gutentight.

jbailer · Apr 7, 2017

mikes2017gt said:
Not sure what you mean. Pic? It does make sense that using a CF wrench effectively lengthens the lever (torque wrench handle) you're using to tighten the nut....

I can't draw worth a damned. Here is a video that explains it. [ame="[MEDIA=youtube]tv_KHH55qdQ[/MEDIA]"] I could explain in a little more detail why he gets a very slightly higher reading with the crowsfoot adapter at 90* but it would hurt. Basically at 90* you aren't extending the fulcrum (length of the torque wrench). Because it it has an offset, it increases the force just a little, not enough to worry about for this application. The most accurate way would be to use the crowsfoot parallel with the torque wrench and do the math. For this, I will use it at a 90* angle. :thumbsup:

TNcoupe · Apr 7, 2017

Dont you love how a camber plate question turns into a physics test?

jbailer · Apr 7, 2017

TNcoupe said:
Dont you love how a camber plate question turns into a physics test?

I love most conversations here. At least when people play nice. I always learn. :cheers:

mikes2017gt · Apr 7, 2017

It's all relevant conversation, so I think it's great. :cheers: I'm all about becoming better at something and you do that through experience and knowledge-sharing.

lugz · Apr 25, 2017

Subscribing to this thread. I've got steeda camber plates on the way... to fix the alignment snafu trying to use camber bolts with a shop too lazy to monkey with. Anyway, is there a good writeup or video on here someplace? The steeda video doesn't help much. The FRPP struts are pretty awesome - the bearing is much nicer than the factory PP struts. How much of that is thrown away? Just trying to wrap my mind around how it goes together. An exploded diagram of the before vs after would be ideal. :cheers:

wildcatgoal · Apr 25, 2017

Best is to contact SteedaTech directly. He'll walk you through it. Really not hard. Instructions are included. You do not use the top part of the FRPP strut (the part with the three bolts that stick up through the strut tower). That is replaced by the camber plates.

Steeda Camber Plates Install Question

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