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Manders Mustang

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test fitted the black brows

I'm fully aware my splitter is butchered, i've got a spare one next to me painted ready to go on when i've got some time. Lacquer peeled off during jet wash, painter thinks there may have been a very tiny air bubble in the paint that got missed in inspection and has only just split and caused the paint to rip off.





added more carbon to the interior



also painted some red surrounds for the side air vents...

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Steve how are you going to gold them in place?
 

Manders Mustang

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Kristian87

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Brows look good, go really well with the gloss splitter...

so is it just the one thin edge that will be holding it to the bumper? Call me a pessimist but I can't see it holding up, especially when you're cruising @ 70mph on the motorway...
 

Manders Mustang

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Brows look good, go really well with the gloss splitter...

so is it just the one thin edge that will be holding it to the bumper? Call me a pessimist but I can't see it holding up, especially when you're cruising @ 70mph on the motorway...
Long strip (i'll double it up) of 3m tape, connects to the indicator plastic, the 'power line' by the grille, and the side of the bumper. Should be fine. I've seen spoilers held on with 3m tape and that's got down force ruining it, these have 0 effect on aero.

They fall of... so be it :lol::lol::lol:
 

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SteveS

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test fitted the black brows

I'm fully aware my splitter is butchered, i've got a spare one next to me painted ready to go on when i've got some time. Lacquer peeled off during jet wash, painter thinks there may have been a very tiny air bubble in the paint that got missed in inspection and has only just split and caused the paint to rip off.

Condensation in your lights, if that's what it is, looks pretty horrendous?
 

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Condensation in your lights, if that's what it is, looks pretty horrendous?
It is, got a fix we've been working on to prevent the lights doing it again - as too much heat in there when they're on. So redoing a vent on it. repositioning the exit wires. Currently held in with butyl which is flexible so when the control unit moves it can open up air pockets and holes and shiz, so covering that in a resin so no air bubbles can get in.
Fortis are fixing the whole thing, free of charge, and coming up to me to take them and return the lights. :thumbsup:

Will post a full review when they're fixed. tbh, i expected issues with them, i was the first one running them, so 99% of issues have been fixed now in some way, new things gotta learn and plow through it.
 

Centurion07

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It is, got a fix we've been working on to revent the lights as too much heat int here when they're on. So redoing a vent. repositioning the exit wires. Currently held in with butyl which is flexible so when the control unit moves it can open up air pockets and holes and shiz, so covering that in a resin so no air bubbles can get in.
Fortis are fixing the whole thing, free of charge, and coming up to me to take them and return the lights. :thumbsup:
Translation: we fucked up, have no idea why they're still suffering this problem, hope we fix them THIS time around.

How can there be too much heat in there? The US lights manage. They're either supposed to be vented or they're not and the fact you're STILL having these issues points to someone not knowing what the cause of those issues is...

I hope the man in question is sorting you out with a MAJOR discount on future services...
 

Manders Mustang

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Translation: we fucked up, have no idea why they're still suffering this problem, hope we fix them THIS time around.

How can there be too much heat in there? The US lights manage. They're either supposed to be vented or they're not and the fact you're STILL having these issues points to someone not knowing what the cause of those issues is...

I hope the man in question is sorting you out with a MAJOR discount on future services...
The US lights have an extra vent in there.........?

To be honest, it's only been back once and that was just to test "clearing" it out with a heat gun lol.
 

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Manders Mustang

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Do they? :shrug:

If they have an extra vent, why the need to seal the unit up...? :confused:
Because the unit was opened to get the lights in there :headbonk:

US lights also have a stock connector to plug the unit into, DD ones have an external control unit, so the wires come out the back of the lights, which are sealed up with butyl... which was evidently not the best idea as it's great for static objects, but not anything that can and does move around.
 

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Because the unit was opened to get the lights in there :headbonk:
But if there are vents to let air in and out then surely the unit doesn't require airtight sealing, which is going to be contributing to the issue, hence my comment about the cause of the issue being unknown.

Either way I wouldn't be happy but at least they're picking them up this time.
 

Manders Mustang

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But if there are vents to let air in and out then surely the unit doesn't require airtight sealing, which is going to be contributing to the issue, hence my comment about the cause of the issue being unknown.

Either way I wouldn't be happy but at least they're picking them up this time.
Well, the light is split open, so needs resealing together. The wires to contol the DRLs have to go somewhere, they can't exit any stock location, there's a section in our lights that has some tape over it, which is where the US lights have a connector for their lights. As the wires connect to stock wiring harnesses, when they leave the light, you need to have an exit path. What was used was the US stock location (tape cut open) wires then come through the back and is sealed back up with butyl. (See previous post for issue with butyl in this scenario).

As The control unit moves around in the engine bay, even slightly it'll pull and move the butyl and can cause cracks, holes or bubbles in it, overtime it'll just keep causing more wet air to get in, the heat of the lights will kick them up and turn them into condensation, and hey presto, you have a waterfall in your lights.

At FFest (or if i see you before) i'll show you where the tape bit is on stock lights, just so it makes a bit more sense.
 

Manders Mustang

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Warm air holds more moisture. When it cools - condensation forms.
"Condensation can also produce water droplets on the outside of soda cans or glasses of cold water. When warm air hits the cold surface, it reaches its dew point and condenses. This leaves droplets of water on the glass or can. When a pocket of air becomes full of water vapor, clouds form"

Car air being cold, then air rapidly heating up due to LEDs etc being on, easy way to cause the drips and condensation etc.... I may as well have the whole fecking water cycle in my fucking lights, can swear it rains in there at times :lol::lol::lol::lol:
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