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hinch

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dropped car off at garage for warranty work last night got the fastest car in the world for a courtesy car a 1 litre fiesta that came with the added bonus of no fuel and a flat tyre.

even though they'd ordered the puddle lights in 2 weeks ago the service desk when dropping it off said "we'll have to wait for ford to approve the warranty replacements it could take a couple of days" i'm like wtf.

I've also put a sign on it saying do not wash so lets see if their sand paper monkeys ignore it like they did with the missus's ST and wash it anyway they'll be getting the invoice for the detailer to put it right again if they do.

I'm not holding my breath for them actually fixing any of the issues and fully expect to have to fix it all myself afterwards anyway. I've also warned them if there's any more than .1 of a mile put on the mileage they'll be getting charged for that too since I parked less than 20m away from the workshop entrance there should be no excuse for them going for a joy ride in it like they did last time too where they put 30 miles on it when it went back for a trim replacement!
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hinch

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manders just a tip when you're spraying do it from further away you've got quite alot of ridge lines around the details where the paint is too thick and pooled and there's a couple of nasty runs and dust bumps in it too. rule of thumb lots of coats very thin almost think of it as dusting rather than spraying.
always clean with whitespirits or turps between coats (although you can get away without this if you're really doing thin coats) so process is

prep
clean
clean again.
spray
wet flat
clean
spray
wet
clean
repeat until done.
 

Centurion07

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C'mon guys, I thought we'd sorted this last week :frusty:


I'd deleted LS's post.....and edited others that quoted it. I've also edited your replies MM.

Please, for the last time, ignore each other or there WILL be infractions given.
Dammitt! Late to the party, AGAIN! :doh:
 

Manders Mustang

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manders just a tip when you're spraying do it from further away you've got quite alot of ridge lines around the details where the paint is too thick and pooled and there's a couple of nasty runs and dust bumps in it too. rule of thumb lots of coats very thin almost think of it as dusting rather than spraying.
always clean with whitespirits or turps between coats (although you can get away without this if you're really doing thin coats) so process is

prep
clean
clean again.
spray
wet flat
clean
spray
wet
clean
repeat until done.
Appreciate the commemt. Ove been doing this years so know how it goes. These still need a wet sand however theres about 4 coats of lacquer in there spread thinly. The wrinkles arent actually lacquer its an issue with differering bases of paints settling and causing the paint ti crack. Easily fixed with a wet sand, same with most.

Can over these this morning. No runs or drips. Hiwever ruby red in certain lights from a can, can give that impression as the base coat and top coat if applied tio far from each other etc will cause shadowing in the paint. Its otherwise unnoticable unless you look for it. The other issue being these parts were butchered before picking up as you can see in earlier poctures so has caused shadows in those parts. Theres cuts and grooves in the plastic that no amount of sanding removed and im not prepared to take a few days resurfacing plastic haha!

Oh, pictures were also taken pretty much after thr lacquer was laid either on coat 2 or 4 cant remember which for each picture haha! So really doesnt help ill drop some pictures probably tomorrow night when ive fixed everything, as rattle cans issues always appear :lol:
 

hinch

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this one was the one that stood out you can see along the top line of the letters where its pooled quite badly creating the bevel style fill around the lip thats usually a sign of paint being on too thick also a good example of dust trap too :)
 

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Manders Mustang

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this one was the one that stood out you can see along the top line of the letters where its pooled quite badly creating the bevel style fill around the lip thats usually a sign of paint being on too thick also a good example of dust trap too :)
Ah right gotcha, nah that's just an issue of it just being laid before it does what lacquer does, as it's a thick lacquer spray by standard (to create the gloss finish) it's gone now, however i'll deffo be checking again!

The bits you mention as dust traps, aren't if you're on about the black, that's the paint cracking with different bases on the paints which i'll fix with a wetsand when it's all dry (Same with everything) I'll probably blast over them all with the heat gun later just to make sure they're fully dry. :thumbsup:

I really should stop taking pictures in my garage as the lighting is bloody awful :lol:
 

Lone Survivor

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Hinch, some good tips there :thumbsup:

You all realise that you can buy these covers, perfectly paint matched with a perfect finish, for not a lot of cash?

I do admire peeps giving it a go, but if it were me, I'd not post until I'd perfected it. That way, you're not open to criticism from more experienced car modders and are less prone to taking the huff.
 
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hinch

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I was taught how to spray at 16 by the bodyshop I worked at as a kid I like to do things myself so if I was going to do mine I'd spray them myself too rather than buy them pre-done as with most things I'm only happy if I do it myself that way any faults are my faults and nobody else is to blame :)
 

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Manders Mustang

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in the red above the BY
Gotcha, yes, wet sandable!!! :D Joys of posting parts before they're finished as LS says. I do appreciate the tips honestly, I'm not being rude, it's just stuff I've heard before and have on the list to do, just yeah, works in progress pictures :lol:. Might need you on speed dial for all my parts to pick out anything I can't see lol :lol:
[MENTION=16323]Lone Survivor[/MENTION] Maybe the case next time, just thought some people would want to see works in progress and steps to getting there etc.

Think RPI want a cover for $440 without shipping taxes etc for these. Working that out, that's:

$440 for parts
$100 ish for shipping (est)
= £420

Then 24% rise on tax, handling duty etc.
£520

(obviously numbers are a bit of a stab, but generally they seem about right). I charge far less than that, but, obviously I don't force or advertise that I do it, if people want me to do it, they come and ask. It's not an advertised service, just a hobby. So really, peoples free will what they do, how they spend their cash etc. :thumbsup:. I just do it to help others out who want a prettier engine bay, but at a cheaper cost, as not everyone has bags of money to be spending on making parts look pretty. In this womans instance, she just wanted them to look good, and wasn't particularly fond of the price of lacquer, however now seeing the results as they are, she's glad she paid the £10 extra a tin for the better lacquer :thumbsup:
 

hinch

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Gotcha, yes, wet sandable!!! :D Joys of posting parts before they're finished as LS says. I do appreciate the tips honestly, I'm not being rude, it's just stuff I've heard before and have on the list to do, just yeah, works in progress pictures :lol:. Might need you on speed dial for all my parts to pick out anything I can't see lol :lol:
@Lone Survivor Maybe the case next time, just thought some people would want to see works in progress and steps to getting there etc.

Think RPI want a cover for $440 without shipping taxes etc for these. Working that out, that's:

$440 for parts
$100 ish for shipping (est)
= £420

Then 24% rise on tax, handling duty etc.
£520

(obviously numbers are a bit of a stab, but generally they seem about right). I charge far less than that, but, obviously I don't force or advertise that I do it, if people want me to do it, they come and ask. It's not an advertised service, just a hobby. So really, peoples free will what they do, how they spend their cash etc. :thumbsup:. I just do it to help others out who want a prettier engine bay, but at a cheaper cost, as not everyone has bags of money to be spending on making parts look pretty. In this womans instance, she just wanted them to look good, and wasn't particularly fond of the price of lacquer, however now seeing the results as they are, she's glad she paid the £10 extra a tin for the better lacquer :thumbsup:

yeah appreciate the work in progress so it wasn't a dig just observations :) trick is to minimise the time you spend correcting afterwards with flatting out as every time you've got to go back to fix a spray mistake is less time spraying and moving on to next jobs.
obviously different when you're not doing it for a living but at the time I was so it was always get it right first time and never have to go back to it.
having said that plastic is always shit if its not prepped and primed properly can get horrible results and no amount of post spray action will fix it so the prep is always the most important part
 

SteveS

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Hinch, some good tips there :thumbsup:

You all realise that you can buy these covers, perfectly paint matched with a perfect finish, for not a lot of cash?

I do admire peeps giving it a go, but if it were me, I'd not post until I'd perfected it. That way, you're not open to criticism from more experienced car modders and are less prone to taking the huff.
I bought someone else's covers and sprayed them Halfords blue. Didn't f*ck about too much with all that prep malarky and wet sanding. Looks ok in my eyes but as you say George, I knew the best way to avoid (perfectly justified) criticism was to not shout about it ;)
Might get round to fitting them one day...

Oh, and i didn't bother doing the lettering in black. It's all blue...
 

Gibbo205

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I just purchased the Ford blue covers for $40. :D

I do not have the patience for painting, its just not for me, thumbs up to Manders for giving it a go, practice makes perfect and all that and Hinch clearly knows his stuff! :)

For me nuts, bolts and computes is more my thing. I will rebuild an engine, rip a car to pieces and delve into its ECU, I like that kind of stuff. But painting I hate and I hate wiring diagrams with a passion, when I had to splice into wires on my M3 to convert it from Alpha-N (maf) to run a map sensor the wiring diagrams hurt my head, but got there in the end. But I found rebuilding the bottom end of the engine a lot more fun, though putting the rod bearings (upper shells), OMG that was stressful. :D
 

Manders Mustang

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I bought someone else's covers and sprayed them Halfords blue. Didn't f*ck about too much with all that prep malarky and wet sanding. Looks ok in my eyes but as you say George, I knew the best way to avoid (perfectly justified) criticism was to not shout about it ;)
Might get round to fitting them one day...

Oh, and i didn't bother doing the lettering in black. It's all blue...
Finish is all in the prep as they say, but it all depends 'what' people want, differing levels of finish, a professional gun finish can never be replicated with spray cans, ever. there's just too much inconsistency with them, and then with the aersol as a whole.

It's justified don't get me wrong, just obviously people need to read and realise they're far from finished products and step by step work in progress pictures. :thumbsup:
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