Steeda Camber Plates + Springs + Struts install problems/questions

I've been playing with the stuff I have at the house too..
It's concerning how sloppy the spring is in the upper rubber insulator.
Why is it this way.... Is the slop gone or is it just not a problem once installed?
Seems like if you were to go over something big enough to unload the spring it could certainly move around on there..

I have another brand here and it just seems like it's made exactly for the strut and insulators..

Mike - [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] - from Steeda called me yesterday and walked me through everything. Really phenomenal service from Steeda throughout this entire research/order/install process. It's refreshing to work with a group that doesn't give up on the customer once the sale has been made but follows through and seems to really appreciate the relationship.

1. It is normal for the spring to not seat in the top rubber isolator until the car is on the ground. Make sure you orient the spring such that the larger opening is on the top. Once the vehicle is on the ground, it'll align correctly.

2. I ordered a 19mm Schwaben strut socket from my old' pal ECS Tuning from my VW days. It's arriving today along with some proper hex wrenches (not the Kmart crap I have had in my toolbox forever) so I can properly torque the top nut to ~77 ft/lbs.



3. Steeda sent out the correct rear shocks so I'm gonna install those tomorrow or Friday. I haven't been able to install the rear shock mounts or shocks because I received the adjustable ones which require a specific version of the top-mount (personally, the top mount should include all the hardware required for ANY future suspension mod ... the only difference is an inexpensive insert) ... managing three SKU's like this has gotta be a logistical/warehouse nightmare ... not to mention it's kinda unfriendly to the consumer.

3. Alignment is scheduled for this coming Wednesday (next week). Mike also sent me some alignment parameters so I am stoked to take that into a reputable shop that does a lot of track prep for folks in the metro Detroit area to get that all dialed in. I'd love to get that done sooner but that was the earliest I could do it. Really REALLY curious to see how wild my alignment numbers are right now.

4. Mike also suggested that I run 31 psi up front and 30 psi on the rear tires. Gonna try and dial that in with a better gauge than the crappy pen-style one I have now.

cjldad said:

I've been playing with the stuff I have at the house too..
It's concerning how sloppy the spring is in the upper rubber insulator.
Why is it this way.... Is the slop gone or is it just not a problem once installed?
Seems like if you were to go over something big enough to unload the spring it could certainly move around on there..

I have another brand here and it just seems like it's made exactly for the strut and insulators..

Click to expand...

I had Ultralites on for probably 15K-ish miles? No issue. I didn't like it either, and frankly still don't, but... no issue.

The reason they're "ultralites" is because they're lighter. How do you think they get lighter? By not having extra metal on them.

Anyone else using the Steeda camber plates and having some bad noises from up front? It feels like things are loose but they aren't. Everything is torqued to spec and the top nuts are tighter than a frogs ass. Using an air gun on them didn't seem to help the situation.

I'm starting to feel like I just need to pull this gear off the car and go back to stock. It's virtually impossible to torque the non-adjustable shocks to spec due to the hex key design. At least on OEM shocks you can use a 6mm wrench on the tip.

Steeda has been very helpful with trying to diagnose this issue with me but I'm starting to run out of things left to tweak. The female hex on the shocks are almost completely stripped.

I wish I would have known that I could have had this stuff pre-assembled I would have definitely gone down that avenue.

Only noise I had up there was from the spring seat under the camber plate. Once that was replaced the noise went away. This was the sound I had from my front driver side when turning the steering wheel.

I've had these plates installed with my KW V3 coilover set and now the shop cannot get any more positive camber dialed in than -2. The whole reason I bought the plates is that I want less negative camber, not more. Anyone has any ideas what could be wrong here?

My only guess is if they were installed properly? Check which way the Steeda logo is facing. Could also be the shop may not know exactly how to adjust them.

Shop doesn’t know what they’re doing.

Ericc B said:

I've had these plates installed with my KW V3 coilover set and now the shop cannot get any more positive camber dialed in than -2. The whole reason I bought the plates is that I want less negative camber, not more. Anyone has any ideas what could be wrong here?

Click to expand...

Check the strut to spindle attachment, the upper hole is slotted to remove or add camber as well. This is more than likely the root cause.

Steeda Tech