Tomster
Beware of idiots
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I was going to include this install within the HR361 thread here http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86609&page=8 . However, as I started to upload the photos and the sheer amount of information that was to be conveyed, I thought maybe that this ought to just be its own thread.
First, for anyone contemplating installing this into their 350, I would recommend reading the installation instructions as provided by Watson Racing. Here is the link. http://www.watsonracing.com/images/instructions/wr-s550-4-6pt-roll-bar-guide.pdf . I would not consider this setup as a temporary (track day) installation or for anyone who requires the use of a back seat. Way, way, too much work. Put it in and leave it there. With that said, the side trim panels will have to be trimmed and if you do not have an R, you will most likely need a rear seat delete (which will have to be trimmed as well.
The installation instructions are quite good. However, step 13 talks about build variances in S550 Mustangs. This, in my opinion is the worst part of the job. Because Watson Racing cannot control the build variances of Ford, they have to manufacture their product to try to comply with as many of those variances that Ford puts out. The instructions are cook book vanilla with one exception..... dealing with those variances of the ford manufacture. The most critical part of this install is step #20. The photo in the instruction pdf shows a stripped down body with nothing in the way. It would be easy and great if we had the luxury of locating and drilling holes to correctly place and drill for the nut plate so that we can mount the rear legs, however we have a rear, brake lines, wiring harness, and a fuel line to contend with. Follow the instructions up to step 20. Take your time in correctly locating and drilling the locations for the nut plates. They will exactly coincide with the horizontal beam. Too far forward or too far aft and you have screwed up the entire job.
I'll go through the instructions step by step with my thoughts and hints where applicable.
Steps 1-13) Follow as instructions indicate. Remove and retain plastic shoulder harness trip at the top of the shoulder harness. Have a roll of duct tape handy to protect areas from getting scratched.
Step 14) Installing the main roll hoop into the car requires that the far end go under the wiring harness and slightly outside the car to get the other end into the car.
Hint Use towels, duct tape, etc to protect the finish of paint and trim as needed
Step 15-19) Follow as instructions indicate.
Hint
To avoid tearing up the paint on the bottom of the leg brackets and the deck of the car, I installed a neoprene adhesive gasket for finish preservation as well as a air/weather seal.
Step 20-27). This is critical. This is the part that the car needs to be up on a jack. Temporarily install the rear legs of the cage and note where they lie in reference the spot welds of the deck to the horizontal beam. The legs can move forward and back, but not left and right. To determine where they go, you must reference the horizontal beam below the deck (under the car). Note each spot weld location and orientation in relation to the rear leg bracket mounting holes. Now, go under the car and physically compare how the center of the rear leg bracket holes (in relation to the spot welds) line up with the nut plate underneath the car. They must coincide. Hint. The nut plate bracket, when located correctly, will lay flat against the deck, and be up against the horizontal beam. If the leg bracket doesn't coincide with the location of the nut plate, then the leg bracket will have to be moved forward or aft to accommodate the location of the nut plate in relation to the horizontal beam. IIRC, the spacing forward to aft for the leg bracket is 5" on center. That leaves no room (forward and aft) of placement of the nut plate bracket that is mounted forward and aft of the horizontal beam under the car.
Hint
Once you locate the nut plate against the beam below the car. Note the spot weld location so that you can draw a line of reference to center of the nut on the nut plate. Use a caliper to measure 5" from that line to create a new reference line for the other three holes on the other side of the horizontal beam.
Hint
I used IRWIN COBALT drill bits on a very low speed to drill the holes. You will find that the flange of the beam will not cover the entire 1/2" drill hole. The bit will tend to walk towards the end of the drilling. Once the hole is nearly through, use a dremmel or whatever to finish the 1/2" hole. The center 1/4" holes are not a concern.
Hint
WARNING!! There are brake lines, a fuel line, and a wiring harness directly below where you will be drilling. Take the time to move the affected lines and protect them from damage.
Hint
Drilling location and accuracy is absolutely critical. I recommend constructing a template and using a center punch to locate the pilot holes correctly.
Hint
Use a circular file to chamfer the underside of the freshly drilled holes
Hint
Use a primer and allow to dry before adding a lacquer coat to prevent rust
Hint
Use a quality lacquer paint to cover the primed areas to prevent corrosion
Steps 28-37)
Follow in accordance with instructions.
Steps 38-40)
I agonized over this one and honestly, I don't know what to recommend. I tried to find PVC with 1.75" ID at lowes and home depot. Nope. Closest thing was 2" electrical schedule 80 PVC, but it wasn't balls on. Next, I looked at a laser gun sight I had laying around, but there wasn't enough real estate on the stub to make that work. I finally robbed a cardboard tube that had an exact ID of 1.75" and I thought it would work great. It was very close. Doing it again, I would probably use the angle iron method. Mine turned out ok though....
First, for anyone contemplating installing this into their 350, I would recommend reading the installation instructions as provided by Watson Racing. Here is the link. http://www.watsonracing.com/images/instructions/wr-s550-4-6pt-roll-bar-guide.pdf . I would not consider this setup as a temporary (track day) installation or for anyone who requires the use of a back seat. Way, way, too much work. Put it in and leave it there. With that said, the side trim panels will have to be trimmed and if you do not have an R, you will most likely need a rear seat delete (which will have to be trimmed as well.
The installation instructions are quite good. However, step 13 talks about build variances in S550 Mustangs. This, in my opinion is the worst part of the job. Because Watson Racing cannot control the build variances of Ford, they have to manufacture their product to try to comply with as many of those variances that Ford puts out. The instructions are cook book vanilla with one exception..... dealing with those variances of the ford manufacture. The most critical part of this install is step #20. The photo in the instruction pdf shows a stripped down body with nothing in the way. It would be easy and great if we had the luxury of locating and drilling holes to correctly place and drill for the nut plate so that we can mount the rear legs, however we have a rear, brake lines, wiring harness, and a fuel line to contend with. Follow the instructions up to step 20. Take your time in correctly locating and drilling the locations for the nut plates. They will exactly coincide with the horizontal beam. Too far forward or too far aft and you have screwed up the entire job.
I'll go through the instructions step by step with my thoughts and hints where applicable.
Steps 1-13) Follow as instructions indicate. Remove and retain plastic shoulder harness trip at the top of the shoulder harness. Have a roll of duct tape handy to protect areas from getting scratched.
Step 14) Installing the main roll hoop into the car requires that the far end go under the wiring harness and slightly outside the car to get the other end into the car.
Hint Use towels, duct tape, etc to protect the finish of paint and trim as needed
Step 15-19) Follow as instructions indicate.
Hint
To avoid tearing up the paint on the bottom of the leg brackets and the deck of the car, I installed a neoprene adhesive gasket for finish preservation as well as a air/weather seal.
Step 20-27). This is critical. This is the part that the car needs to be up on a jack. Temporarily install the rear legs of the cage and note where they lie in reference the spot welds of the deck to the horizontal beam. The legs can move forward and back, but not left and right. To determine where they go, you must reference the horizontal beam below the deck (under the car). Note each spot weld location and orientation in relation to the rear leg bracket mounting holes. Now, go under the car and physically compare how the center of the rear leg bracket holes (in relation to the spot welds) line up with the nut plate underneath the car. They must coincide. Hint. The nut plate bracket, when located correctly, will lay flat against the deck, and be up against the horizontal beam. If the leg bracket doesn't coincide with the location of the nut plate, then the leg bracket will have to be moved forward or aft to accommodate the location of the nut plate in relation to the horizontal beam. IIRC, the spacing forward to aft for the leg bracket is 5" on center. That leaves no room (forward and aft) of placement of the nut plate bracket that is mounted forward and aft of the horizontal beam under the car.
Hint
Once you locate the nut plate against the beam below the car. Note the spot weld location so that you can draw a line of reference to center of the nut on the nut plate. Use a caliper to measure 5" from that line to create a new reference line for the other three holes on the other side of the horizontal beam.
Hint
I used IRWIN COBALT drill bits on a very low speed to drill the holes. You will find that the flange of the beam will not cover the entire 1/2" drill hole. The bit will tend to walk towards the end of the drilling. Once the hole is nearly through, use a dremmel or whatever to finish the 1/2" hole. The center 1/4" holes are not a concern.
Hint
WARNING!! There are brake lines, a fuel line, and a wiring harness directly below where you will be drilling. Take the time to move the affected lines and protect them from damage.
Hint
Drilling location and accuracy is absolutely critical. I recommend constructing a template and using a center punch to locate the pilot holes correctly.
Hint
Use a circular file to chamfer the underside of the freshly drilled holes
Hint
Use a primer and allow to dry before adding a lacquer coat to prevent rust
Hint
Use a quality lacquer paint to cover the primed areas to prevent corrosion
Steps 28-37)
Follow in accordance with instructions.
Steps 38-40)
I agonized over this one and honestly, I don't know what to recommend. I tried to find PVC with 1.75" ID at lowes and home depot. Nope. Closest thing was 2" electrical schedule 80 PVC, but it wasn't balls on. Next, I looked at a laser gun sight I had laying around, but there wasn't enough real estate on the stub to make that work. I finally robbed a cardboard tube that had an exact ID of 1.75" and I thought it would work great. It was very close. Doing it again, I would probably use the angle iron method. Mine turned out ok though....
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