Gee
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PMAS Intake System - No Tune Version
I was seeing a lot of comments from people having issues with installation. I thought I'd make a post about the install with a few comments that may help others. I'm a fairly handy, mechanical, techie kinda guy, but by no means any sort of master mechanic.
This instructions, meh, I barely looked at them. I wouldn't call them thorough, but they're ok I guess. A few things of note that may help future installs.
1. If you haven't removed your sound tube, it's a bit of a pain. On the PP cars it's even worse. There is zero room to get a hand in there to do anything. TIP: The best way (which I didn't do because I found the post after I had already started) is to follow the instructions provided here by [MENTION=15779]z06psi[/MENTION] post# 57, which details what tool combo can reach and easily remove.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26612&page=4
I went a different method, way more time consuming. I removed both the strut tower brace and the K brace. It actually wasn't that bad. 4 bolts for the strut brace and 4-5 more bolts for the K brace. Yes there's just enough room to get the fire wall bolts out from under the plastic cowl, but you will need to remove the 6 plastic body fasteners to make room. After the braces are off you can then fit your right arm along the valve cover (IMAGE 1 - red line shows right arm path, lol), under the brake lines and have just enough room to put a 10mm ratcheting wrench on the sound tube nut. It was painful, 2-3 clicks at a time for 10mins, but it came off.
Now that the sound tube is out, it's time for the firewall plug. You have just enough room to put your left hand straight down against the firewall (right in front of the brake fluid reservoir) to place the firewall plug in where the sound tube was. TIP: Use a razor knife to trim down the threads of the plug a fairly large amount. The plug that comes with the kit is too tight and there's not enough room. After it's trimmed down you should be able to pop it nearly all the way in. If you can only get a thread or 2, use something that can reach the plug (piece of wood, long extension) and put it up against the plug and hit the other end a few times (gently) with a hammer. It'll pop all the way in.
TIP: Quick note on the disconnection of the factory lines to the stock inlet pipe/elbow. The rounded connections where you see metal only need to be pushed in, NOT PULLED UP. I used a screw driver, pushed straight down with little force and while pushing in pull the line off. They come right off very easily. The picture in the instructions is misleading and has caused some people to pry the metal part up, DON'T DO THIS, THEY WILL BREAK. On my 16 there are two of these connections, one on the under side of the elbow, another right under where the sound tube connects. The last connection is a grey sliding connector, slide it over and pull, again, comes right off easily.
The new heat shield is pretty self explanatory (IMAGE 2). You reuse the stock bolt from the air box in the stock location. No other washer is required. The lower bolt is pre-installed into the heat shield along with a rubber plug that fits into a factory hole quite securely.
EDIT: Just wanted to add a quick note about the coolant tank bracket. As a poster below pointed out there is a tab on the underside of the stock tank that slides into a stock mount. Bolt the tank to the bracket supplied with the kit as far left as possible. What I mean by that is push the tank as far left in the holes of the bracket as possible, then tighten them down. Every mm counts. Once you place the tank and bracket down on the stock location and start to put the stock bolts back in, it should pull the tank into position without any interference and sit flat as IMAGE 7 shows.
The rest of the install is pretty cake. TIP: Think about where the clamps are going to sit once installed. I left the one that holds the elbow to the throttle body easily accessible. That one clamp loosened can remove the entire intake all together.
If you removed the sound tube you'll have an open hole in the new elbow. PMAS supplies a rubber cap for that hole. No hose clamp or wire tie was included in my kit, maybe it was missed?? You could probably just use a wire tie, but I chose to pick up a 1/2" - 1 1/4" hose clamp. Fit perfectly (IMAGE 3). TIP: If you use a hose clamp it needs to be put on BEFORE installing the elbow on the car. Reason is because there's very little room and the clamp needs to be placed exactly where you see in the pic (screw of clamp facing air filter end, as tight in the corner of the elbow as possible, use an open ended box wrench to tighten). This positioning is due to the clearance needed to put the other two connections back on the elbow.without interfering.
I chose MAF sensor placement per IMAGE 4. I haven't messed around with locations yet, but I did drive it and it feels 100% smooth as stock, little more pep I suppose. Seemed a little quicker to red line. IAT's were 4-6* above ambient (65* day here in RI) while cruising. Will report back once I do some stoplight/traffic cruising, but IAT's aren't anything I'm all that concerned with unless at the track waiting in line, lol.
One note, the black particles you see in the air filter if you look close are some of the remains of all the grille honeycomb holes I opened up with a dremel. I secured a vacuum behind the grill while opening them and thoroughly vacuumed all the bits I could see, but after going for a ride I guess some flew around. Going to remove and blow em out now.
IMAGES 5-6-7 are just general pics. If anyone has any suggestions about modifying flow path from grille to opening closer to air filter I'm all ears. Gave some thought to hacking off the rubber connector along with a section of the plastic stock air box to get the opening to funnel closer, but not all that sure it's necessary.
I was seeing a lot of comments from people having issues with installation. I thought I'd make a post about the install with a few comments that may help others. I'm a fairly handy, mechanical, techie kinda guy, but by no means any sort of master mechanic.
This instructions, meh, I barely looked at them. I wouldn't call them thorough, but they're ok I guess. A few things of note that may help future installs.
1. If you haven't removed your sound tube, it's a bit of a pain. On the PP cars it's even worse. There is zero room to get a hand in there to do anything. TIP: The best way (which I didn't do because I found the post after I had already started) is to follow the instructions provided here by [MENTION=15779]z06psi[/MENTION] post# 57, which details what tool combo can reach and easily remove.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26612&page=4
I went a different method, way more time consuming. I removed both the strut tower brace and the K brace. It actually wasn't that bad. 4 bolts for the strut brace and 4-5 more bolts for the K brace. Yes there's just enough room to get the fire wall bolts out from under the plastic cowl, but you will need to remove the 6 plastic body fasteners to make room. After the braces are off you can then fit your right arm along the valve cover (IMAGE 1 - red line shows right arm path, lol), under the brake lines and have just enough room to put a 10mm ratcheting wrench on the sound tube nut. It was painful, 2-3 clicks at a time for 10mins, but it came off.
Now that the sound tube is out, it's time for the firewall plug. You have just enough room to put your left hand straight down against the firewall (right in front of the brake fluid reservoir) to place the firewall plug in where the sound tube was. TIP: Use a razor knife to trim down the threads of the plug a fairly large amount. The plug that comes with the kit is too tight and there's not enough room. After it's trimmed down you should be able to pop it nearly all the way in. If you can only get a thread or 2, use something that can reach the plug (piece of wood, long extension) and put it up against the plug and hit the other end a few times (gently) with a hammer. It'll pop all the way in.
TIP: Quick note on the disconnection of the factory lines to the stock inlet pipe/elbow. The rounded connections where you see metal only need to be pushed in, NOT PULLED UP. I used a screw driver, pushed straight down with little force and while pushing in pull the line off. They come right off very easily. The picture in the instructions is misleading and has caused some people to pry the metal part up, DON'T DO THIS, THEY WILL BREAK. On my 16 there are two of these connections, one on the under side of the elbow, another right under where the sound tube connects. The last connection is a grey sliding connector, slide it over and pull, again, comes right off easily.
The new heat shield is pretty self explanatory (IMAGE 2). You reuse the stock bolt from the air box in the stock location. No other washer is required. The lower bolt is pre-installed into the heat shield along with a rubber plug that fits into a factory hole quite securely.
EDIT: Just wanted to add a quick note about the coolant tank bracket. As a poster below pointed out there is a tab on the underside of the stock tank that slides into a stock mount. Bolt the tank to the bracket supplied with the kit as far left as possible. What I mean by that is push the tank as far left in the holes of the bracket as possible, then tighten them down. Every mm counts. Once you place the tank and bracket down on the stock location and start to put the stock bolts back in, it should pull the tank into position without any interference and sit flat as IMAGE 7 shows.
The rest of the install is pretty cake. TIP: Think about where the clamps are going to sit once installed. I left the one that holds the elbow to the throttle body easily accessible. That one clamp loosened can remove the entire intake all together.
If you removed the sound tube you'll have an open hole in the new elbow. PMAS supplies a rubber cap for that hole. No hose clamp or wire tie was included in my kit, maybe it was missed?? You could probably just use a wire tie, but I chose to pick up a 1/2" - 1 1/4" hose clamp. Fit perfectly (IMAGE 3). TIP: If you use a hose clamp it needs to be put on BEFORE installing the elbow on the car. Reason is because there's very little room and the clamp needs to be placed exactly where you see in the pic (screw of clamp facing air filter end, as tight in the corner of the elbow as possible, use an open ended box wrench to tighten). This positioning is due to the clearance needed to put the other two connections back on the elbow.without interfering.
I chose MAF sensor placement per IMAGE 4. I haven't messed around with locations yet, but I did drive it and it feels 100% smooth as stock, little more pep I suppose. Seemed a little quicker to red line. IAT's were 4-6* above ambient (65* day here in RI) while cruising. Will report back once I do some stoplight/traffic cruising, but IAT's aren't anything I'm all that concerned with unless at the track waiting in line, lol.
One note, the black particles you see in the air filter if you look close are some of the remains of all the grille honeycomb holes I opened up with a dremel. I secured a vacuum behind the grill while opening them and thoroughly vacuumed all the bits I could see, but after going for a ride I guess some flew around. Going to remove and blow em out now.
IMAGES 5-6-7 are just general pics. If anyone has any suggestions about modifying flow path from grille to opening closer to air filter I'm all ears. Gave some thought to hacking off the rubber connector along with a section of the plastic stock air box to get the opening to funnel closer, but not all that sure it's necessary.
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