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Mods for Mustang V6

Nagare

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Any idea then if swapping the whole thing from a 3.73 would work? Is there any difference if it goes in to an auto instead of a manual?

I know the higher gears that come on the base V6s are better for boosted cars so maybe I'd get lucky some day down the road and be able to do a straight swap with someone else, ya never know.
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ctandc72

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Any idea then if swapping the whole thing from a 3.73 would work? Is there any difference if it goes in to an auto instead of a manual?

I know the higher gears that come on the base V6s are better for boosted cars so maybe I'd get lucky some day down the road and be able to do a straight swap with someone else, ya never know.
Yes the 3.73 would work - the entire assembly.
 

USMCtoARMY

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Any idea then if swapping the whole thing from a 3.73 would work? Is there any difference if it goes in to an auto instead of a manual?

I know the higher gears that come on the base V6s are better for boosted cars so maybe I'd get lucky some day down the road and be able to do a straight swap with someone else, ya never know.
yes it does no issues. I did the 3.73 pumpkin swap. It's an be cheaper than buying gears and paying for the install if u do it yourself and get a good deal on an auction. that's what I did.
 

USMCtoARMY

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PP front swaybar - comes with the brackets / bushings
FR3Z-5482-B

Rear Bar
FR3Z-5A772-C

Bushings ( you need 2 - same LH and RH you use your factory bushing brackets)
FR3Z-5493-C

Fairwayfordparts.net
$105 + shipping
I got my sway bars from the PP when I got a full takeoff set from another forum member that had shocks and struts too. I honestly wouldn't waste the money on sway bars the front is the same on ours stock with a different bushing. the rear is only like a millimeter different than stock. a better bang for your buck would be looking into the gt350 set which many GT members swapped too and it's cost effective. I got more out of swapping my endlinks than the sways themselves
 

ctandc72

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I got my sway bars from the PP when I got a full takeoff set from another forum member that had shocks and struts too. I honestly wouldn't waste the money on sway bars the front is the same on ours stock with a different bushing. the rear is only like a millimeter different than stock. a better bang for your buck would be looking into the gt350 set which many GT members swapped too and it's cost effective. I got more out of swapping my endlinks than the sways themselves
It's not just the size of the front bar. It's the stiffness and thickness of the wall and the 'sticky' bushings included with the PP bar is a HUGE upgrade for the V6. Definitely not the same bar. That mm difference in the rear is big. I don't want to lower my car...so bigger bars actually stiffen up the car without replacing springs / struts etc. I can tell you the difference is worth 5-10mph on a certain set of curves without tire chirp in my '17 over stock bars.

I will eventually do springs and likely Bilstein shocks / struts - but I wouldn't hesitate to do the PP bars again. The car is surprisingly neutral right now and I really like that. Any stiffer and it would tip to the other side of the scale.

YMMV - just my 2 cents.
 

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Jared_J

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1. Gears by far - bid on an eBay auction, usually shelby, for a full gear housing. It's a simple install way since the gears are already installed in the housing.

2. GT takeoff throttle body w/adapter - super cheap to do.

3. Suspension - none of what u do will matter unless ur suspension hooks up that power to the ground. Get a good set of springs, shocks, and struts. Then tie it in with the BMR cradle lockout kit. These are your bang for your buck upgrades. An easy route is buying a PP suspension takeoff from a GT or ecoboost owner who upgraded.

4. Headers and Intake - there are Chinese knockoffs u can buy in the header department. They aren't bad at all, or go the BBK route. Intakes are whatever u like and honestly aren't a super improvement over stock, but they look good and sound great.
For headers I guess just buy a knockoff product, since the BBK one's quality is just piece of shit. My header leaked again and while tightening the downpipe stud, the one supplied by BBK just broke into two pieces. I had to drive to the hardware shop and find a replacement one with only one stud on the downpipe.
And I've written down a ton other quality problems with the BBK headers in my other post.
 

Jared_J

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[MENTION=33960]TAC3.7[/MENTION] the throttle body requires an adapter and different tubing, I think a lot of the guys end up doing a CAI at the same time too. Thread on that.

For the gears, I'm not sure if it's been answered whether or not 3.73s will still swap right in without needing some equivalent of the whipple flare tool to correct for it, but 3.55s should go right in. The two options you put will go faster, but sacrifice fuel efficiency and would be at a higher RPM for a given speed in comparison to the 3.15s you have right now. So if those affect your comfort idea, then yes it sacrifices. Also worth pointing out that 3.73s have a different housing (I think, correct me if I'm wrong) that won't swap right in for our cars. You'd need the 3.55 housing and swap the 373s in then install.


[MENTION=32548]ctandc72[/MENTION] has a ported throttle body on his instead of the GT and had a good impression of it. BTW, what were the part numbers for the PP sway bars/bushings you ordered?
Just bought a young 3.55 pumpkin from a junkyard, $350 + 80 shipping and I can sell my 3.15 pumpkin as well. Guess I will only be paying for a shipping fee in the end. :headbang:

The dealer told me they are going to take off $800 discount if I opt for 3.55 when buying the car.
 

USMCtoARMY

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It's not just the size of the front bar. It's the stiffness and thickness of the wall and the 'sticky' bushings included with the PP bar is a HUGE upgrade for the V6. Definitely not the same bar. That mm difference in the rear is big. I don't want to lower my car...so bigger bars actually stiffen up the car without replacing springs / struts etc. I can tell you the difference is worth 5-10mph on a certain set of curves without tire chirp in my '17 over stock bars.

I will eventually do springs and likely Bilstein shocks / struts - but I wouldn't hesitate to do the PP bars again. The car is surprisingly neutral right now and I really like that. Any stiffer and it would tip to the other side of the scale.

YMMV - just my 2 cents.
the "sticky" bushings only effect is giving u a more on center feel when pointing the car. I agree it is better and definitely is noticeable but to say the sways are vastly different and they are a huge improvement...well that's subjective. I personally saw the most improvement in the shocks, struts, and most noticeably in the BMR lockout kit. I mean u could just replace the bushings in the front with steeda or energy bushingd and I guarantee the same "performance" effect and it's cheaper and it wouldn't take as much time in labor. not just saying this, I have done this. though i do also agree too stiff and yiur daily driv8ng balance would be thrown off.
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