BMR's "CB005" S550 IRS Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit - PICS & INFO!

Help? How do I align the cradle?

I installed the BMR CB005 and MPSS 305/35 tires. Now the passenger’s rear tire pokes out over a 1/2” more than the driver’s side.

I’m looking for measuring points on the frame/cradle; so, I can square the cradle by matching the diagonals.

Thanks,

Hivel said:

Help? How do I align the cradle?

I installed the BMR CB005 and MPSS 305/35 tires. Now the passenger’s rear tire pokes out over a 1/2” more than the driver’s side.

I’m looking for measuring points on the frame/cradle; so, I can square the cradle by matching the diagonals.

Thanks,

Click to expand...

Post an alignment sheet and I will gladly help. I need data before making suggestions.

Hivel said:

Help? How do I align the cradle?

I installed the BMR CB005 and MPSS 305/35 tires. Now the passenger’s rear tire pokes out over a 1/2” more than the driver’s side.

I’m looking for measuring points on the frame/cradle; so, I can square the cradle by matching the diagonals.

Thanks,

Click to expand...

Do you have the Steeda alignment kit?
Your cradle is probably ok. What you need now is an actual wheel aligment done. Usually after the lockout kit is installed, the misalignment from the factory is exposed because the cradle wasn’t aligned from the factory. Now the cradle is aligned so the wheels have to be adjusted.

The CB005 is so useful. Another use while doing Ford Performance halfshafts on [MENTION=29672]BChuck[/MENTION]'s car.

BMR Tech said:

Post an alignment sheet and I will gladly help. I need data before making suggestions.

Click to expand...

I want to square the cradle before paying for an alignment. Or at least verify the cradle is square.

I know how to level the car on jack stands and have 4 plum-bobs. That’s how I did it for my SN95 when I installed a MM K-member.

I just wanted to know the best reference points to use when pulling diagonals.

Thanks,

toplesstripcruiser said:

Do you have the Steeda alignment kit?
Your cradle is probably ok. What you need now is an actual wheel aligment done. Usually after the lockout kit is installed, the misalignment from the factory is exposed because the cradle wasn’t aligned from the factory. Now the cradle is aligned so the wheels have to be adjusted.

Click to expand...

No. I didn’t get alignment bushings; because, I didn’t expect the unibody and cradle holes to be perfectly aligned. I think the cradle bolts will prevent movement when they are torqued.

I’m definitely gonna get a 4-wheel alignment after I’m sure the cradle is square to the front end.

Thanks,

Steeda alignment sleeves are a must, IMO. They will align your cradle to the body. Then get your alignment. Anytime you lower your cradle in the future, there will be no need for a new alignment.

Hivel said:

I want to square the cradle before paying for an alignment. Or at least verify the cradle is square.

I know how to level the car on jack stands and have 4 plum-bobs. That’s how I did it for my SN95 when I installed a MM K-member.

I just wanted to know the best reference points to use when pulling diagonals.

Thanks,

Click to expand...

That is more complex than people think. Do you want to make sure the wheels are centered within the rear fenders, OR do you want to make sure the IRS Subframe is centered to the (4) main bolt mounting points?


To ensure the IRS Subframe is centered within the mounts, you simply peak up inside those cups on the CB005 front arms and ensure the bolts (washers) are centered inside. If both fronts are, and are torqued to 129ftlbs...then you are 90% there. Now move to the rear and ensure the BMR Stainless plates are "centered" to the stock lower bushing face - then make sure the blue bolt heads are all centered up.



If you are wanting to make sure the IRS subframe is centered within the fenders, you can measure from the RLCA mounts to a square that is level up against the outside fender. Or just tape plumb bobs to the fenders and let them hang.



The issue is, centered to the (4) mounts doesn't mean centered to the fenders and vice versa. Usually yes, always no.



Just remember, the blue mounting bolts are the best part to reference from if you want to ensure the IRS subframe is centered within the mounting system.

Our procedure for people is typically, install and align.

Do these fit 2018? Product listing shows 2015-2017. I only ask because other products have been updated to show 2015-2018.

Performance nut said:

Do these fit 2018? Product listing shows 2015-2017. I only ask because other products have been updated to show 2015-2018.

Click to expand...

They sure do.

Finally got around to installing CB005 this afternoon. Even in my 1 car garage with limited space install was simple enough.

Took about 2 hours taking my time and accidentally cross threading 1 of the front mount points subsequently retapping the threads to fix that.

Hardest part was torqueing the main carriage bolts to 129 lbs with the limited space I had. No room for good leverage.

I also had the Steeda alignment kit for CB005.

Looking forward to taking it to the strip on Sunday with my Hoosier DR2s!!!

GTP said:

Steeda alignment sleeves are a must, IMO. They will align your cradle to the body. Then get your alignment. Anytime you lower your cradle in the future, there will be no need for a new alignment.

Click to expand...

I second this, the sleeves are a must.

With this kit I have zero wheel hop with 430whp and hard launches.

I posted this on the other thread as well. After a lot of research and discussion with several people, I concluded that the IRS Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit (CB005) is the best choice for the elimination of wheelhop.

[MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] I need to order them asap and I just sent you a PM in regards to having them shipped to Europe. Your reply will be greatly appreciated